DBM

I like what I see! What an absolute bargain at that price. Just add $5 in ball cups and $8 in bearings and you have an awesome machine.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Are the shocks actuakky shorter or did they just mess with the angles/use less of the shock?
Not very sweeping changes to the car really. I'd skip that motor mount. I think the r1 gearmount is better though did they move the motor inboard?

DBM

I believe the motor has been moved inboard 2mm.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Looks like everything could ve done to update. Regular r1 though so that's great. Not a fan of the t4 style mount. Too bad they couldn't have kept the third hole.
What were changes to the dif?
I found the dif pretty good but not sure why it needed 4 ball bearings inside lol

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

that motor mounts looks like the 'new' one for the R1 that I saw a little while ago on their site so it should work

I like the narrow chassis and the thinner upper deck - best is they're FRP, so they'll be about a nickel to update my S1 with (once it gets here)

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

maybe that's what they changed?? since the T4's fit, why not 'change' the diff in the S2 to that style. seems like a 'cheap' fix/update for the car - already got the molds and stock, so you throw it in the revised chassis and call it updated

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

nevermind this post Spec-R has the S1 manual linked to the S2's page as a download

bastids!!!

JimmyMack12

OK, so I see no one had answered my question about the shocks a while back.

I'm looking for a set of aluminum shocks for the S1. Since I'm not that familiar with all the different touring cars on the market, what shocks do you guys recommend?

I'm also wondering about a new motor mount for my S1; seems like I need to be able to do a little more adjustment with moving the motor for different-sized pinions, instead of having to change the spur gear out. Is there a motor mount with more adjustment?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

why not just buy the aluminum bodies for the R1?? they're like $12 bucks at TQ - significantly cheaper then buying a brand new set. unless you don't like the S1 shocks at all. that's what I was planning on doing if/when the plastic bodied ones fail

if money isn't an option, you always got the TRF shocks - well known as some of the best ones you can buy

as far as motor mount, can't help you there - I'm still waiting for my S1 to show up from HK

JayL

I run the Tamiya TRF shocks with all the spec-r red stuff from the s1 plastic shocks, works awesome and looks good

valk

iTrader: (13)

$32 for r1 shocks at tqrc but is there something wrong with your plastic ones?
Obviously just getting bodies is cheaper too.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I'm running the R1 shocks and they are every bit as good as the Tamiya ones.

valk

iTrader: (13)

These shocks are pretty good really just have to be careful threading the alu parts on. You have to rurn them backwards til they find the threads abd click in. Otherwise they are very easy to screw up. Aluminum bodies would be better but the plastic ones are very light.
Never had a problem with leaks.
I.mifht try a different diaphram but as far as my s1 goes meh.
Ill spend some good time with my r1s when they arrive.

Butler02

I'm using R1 shocks on two of my three cars. The other is using Top Photon shocks. I notice no difference between the two brands. I recommend just buying the Spec-R aluminum shock bodies and rebuilding with them.

valk

iTrader: (13)

well, you could spend $80 on tamiya or similar trf shocks with exotic materials, or you can buy 3x sets of spec r plastic shocks complete, and still have money to buy a couple sets of ride matched springs.

you could have prefilled shocks with different holes in your box to quickly swap and test on different tracks, you can have them pre loaded for ride height and tweak adjustment, just sharpy them per corner ect.

as far as bladder shocks go, i dont think ive ever really encountered a bad one. id even go as far to say these shocks are as good as my t3 plastic bodied shocks. lots of people like the plastic as it helps keep the temp of the oil more consistant over a run. they are also lighter.

i had thought the bladders of these were to stiff but thats only to compare to other brands ive had with very soft silicon. I follow chris graingers shock build procedure and get a perfect shock every time, even with the $20 spec r's.