Spec-R R1

Old 03-25-2014, 10:01 AM
  #2731  
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Originally Posted by DBM View Post
I dismantled the front suspension on the car last night to see where the party was coming from. The axle moves around quite a bit inside of the steering block, so I thought that maybe the bearings were a loose fit in the blocks. After disassembly, it looks like the bearings are a good fit in the hubs, and the play is actually coming from the bearings themselves. This explains why there is slop in the rear wheels as well. My car only has ~40 minutes of use, but I replaced the brains with new ones anyways, but the slop is still there. I think the factory spec-r bearings are just sloppy. I going to order some better ones and see how that improves things.

Yeh my stock bearings fell apart after my first drive when i cleaned them with the compressor lol... I'm using the bearings from Xray i'm not sure which brand it is.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:00 AM
  #2732  
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Cost of ownership of ny s1 finally catching up lol. $150 in parts in cary at tq. Though I need other stuff too lol.
R1 prospec is very tempting atm but I want to see what happens with new car. I doubt they changed that much.
At least ill have a full set of ride springs and ssks waiting for it.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:16 AM
  #2733  
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Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
So I have been performing surgery and setup on my recent purchase (thanks Wal). Whilst swapping out the motor mount I have stripped out the hex of 2 of the screws on said mount. Any ideas on how to remove these screws? I thought about gluing a hex key into them one at a time and trying to removing them. Might end up taking it to the LHS to have it cut off. The mount is cactus and the screws are also.
Drill the heads off Marty, use the other engine mount for the moment (if you can wind them out once you have the engine mount out, hopefully I'll see the new engine mount this week.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:25 AM
  #2734  
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I have an original R1 and an R1 Pro Spec (upgraded) for sale. Both have DCJs and numerous other upgrades. Both will come with extra parts, like sway bar kits, plastics, etc. Both are in good shape, though the Pro Spec has been run on carpet all season and may need a some shimming. Asking $225 for Pro Spec, $175 for the R1. Free shipping if in lower 48 states.

I'll have pictures in a day or two. PM me with any specific questions.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:04 PM
  #2735  
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Consider your prospec straight up jacked
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:39 PM
  #2736  
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I just dropped another $315 at tqrc today, and $275 yesterday on a new radio. Damn. I got into this hobby thinking that I could do it on the cheap. Haha.
I ordered some 3racing aluminum steering blocks for a Tamiya 417 to see if they will fit. If not, I have a friend who runs a 417 that I will give them to.

Thanks to the guys in this thread who recommended Avid bearings. I've decided to go that route. I've read some things that the owner has posted, and I like his reasoning. His prices are down right cheap, too, so I no longer feel bad paying the $30 shipping cost.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:55 PM
  #2737  
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Tq is excellent. Avid was prety good. I got burnt by fedex but wasn't avids fault. Basically paid $80 for $45 worth of bearings. Definitly usps nexttime.
As with most bearings clean em.out with brakleen before installing with a single drop of light bearing oil. My avid ceramics were awesome but they did come packed in grease.
Everyone gets in thinking they can just do it cheap and be happy. I picjed up a used futaba and associated in 2011 for $600. I've since spent probably 6grand across all my platforms plus vrc lol.

For steering blocks, I know t2/3 blocks drop right in. I had to shim them to match the height of my spec r but I have one in my s1 and a stock one heh. I'm gonna try a t4 block. Basically any tc with two 5x10 bearings per axle should work with shimming.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:43 PM
  #2738  
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Tq is excellent. Avid was prety good. I got burnt by fedex but wasn't avids fault. Basically paid $80 for $45 worth of bearings. Definitly usps nexttime.
As with most bearings clean em.out with brakleen before installing with a single drop of light bearing oil. My avid ceramics were awesome but they did come packed in grease.
Everyone gets in thinking they can just do it cheap and be happy. I picjed up a used futaba and associated in 2011 for $600. I've since spent probably 6grand across all my platforms plus vrc lol.

For steering blocks, I know t2/3 blocks drop right in. I had to shim them to match the height of my spec r but I have one in my s1 and a stock one heh. I'm gonna try a t4 block. Basically any tc with two 5x10 bearings per axle should work with shimming.
I've only been in the hobby for a few weeks now, and I think I've made about seven or eight orders for between $150-400 each. It is true..... the car kit is pretty much the cheapest part. All of the support stuff/tools/supplies/ upgrades costs the most money. I'm still taking my car to the track in a cardboard box. :P
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:50 PM
  #2739  
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I had looked on usedvictoria for a cheap rolling toolbox to carry everything around lol. had that for 2 years, never even taking the stickers off before i finally FINALLY got a hauler. Support is really the expensive shit for sure. i dont have hudy tools, just integy but there has got to be at least $500 in hand tools in my box and setup stuff. most of it aquired second hand so nothing matches but it all costs money.
its a little irresponsible to tell new people they can get a car for x dollars knowing full well how far in we all are lol.

but thats why im so excited about this particular car. it has EVERYTHING the more expensive ones do and honestly, having owned them, its just as good.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:46 AM
  #2740  
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I have a new engine mount Wal. I saw Rob on Tuesday and he had a spare one there. Dropped in to see Geoff at Trackside and he kindly let me use his dremel to remove the old engine mount. On a similar topic I am having an issue with the centre pulley binding when I put the top deck on and screw it all down. Even with the 4 screws removed from the top of the engine mount it still seems to bind. Will have to see if I can get on top of it at the open day on Saturday.

Also the new speedy arrived today. That will have to be set up before I head down.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:32 AM
  #2741  
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Originally Posted by mrjudd77 View Post
I have a new engine mount Wal. I saw Rob on Tuesday and he had a spare one there. Dropped in to see Geoff at Trackside and he kindly let me use his dremel to remove the old engine mount. On a similar topic I am having an issue with the centre pulley binding when I put the top deck on and screw it all down. Even with the 4 screws removed from the top of the engine mount it still seems to bind. Will have to see if I can get on top of it at the open day on Saturday.

Also the new speedy arrived today. That will have to be set up before I head down.
Marty, I have the Pro Spec spaced up at the back with spacers, to date I hadn't needed to do it with the R1, just use 4 of the plastic spacers (or 8 if you use all of the screws) that from the lower suspension pins sets, you don't need to space the front up, just the rear not the front, it gives it enough room.
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:34 AM
  #2742  
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S2 info. via facebook

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....N_pw.facebook2 info. found it on facebook this morning.
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:49 AM
  #2743  
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OOOOOoooo... All sorts of questions.

New upper deck, new lower shock towers. Makes sense.

What is different about the new HD Gear Diff? What does the HD mean?

Will the motor mount and servo mount work on my S1's?
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:00 AM
  #2744  
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Very nice.

It's easy to see how a few of those changes could be carried over to an R2.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:30 AM
  #2745  
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Just looked through the pictures of the S2, and I like all the changes except the motor mount. Seems to be the way most of the manufacturers are going with the motor mount, but I like the idea of having my motor mounted to more surface area to avoid the possibility of gear mesh issues during a crash. I've seen guys with the X-ray T4 have to replace the spur gear every time they tapped the wall. Just my opinion based on my observations, it's worked out well for everybody else.
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