Lyrix

Hi,

question about roll center. These http://www.spec-r.com/default/images...R-R1H711_m.jpg will only increase the roll center right?

Else i'm not really sure how to lower the roll center on the spec-r r1. Only by making the inner camper links higher?

Thanks in advance!

poeee

Yesterday I had one of the screws holding outdrive on the spool coming loose and letting the outdrive pop off and lose drive. After pulling outdrive from the spool, I noticed that there isn't much of the screw thread protruding out from the outdrive. It doesn't tighten up any more (stripped the plastic in the spool).

What options do I have for a different spool, or what can I do to fix the problem, other than replacing it with the same?

DBM

Looks like I'll have two Spec-R's in the near future..... the R1-pro is due to arrive tomorrow (I'm excited! ), and I just won an eBay auction for a used S1 with a bunch of spares and upgrades (aluminum shocks, steering components, suspension mounts, sway bars) that I plan to build into a VTA car. I wonder if the seller is in this thread...his name is Ernest.

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

I'm not Ernest but u have run with him before. His spec r is like new with very little run time..

PEEKracing

[QUOTATION=Lyrix;13058718]Hi,

question about roll center. These 'url' will only increase the roll center right?

Else i'm not really sure how to lower the roll center on the spec-r r1. Only by making the inner camper links higher?

Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

I swapped the longer ball studs to the inner side of the links and placed about 4mm of spacers under to get the links as parallel to the ground as possible. I've noticed that other chassis need much fewer spacers to get the same result.

Good luck!

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

since those go under the suspension mounts, they around going to effect ride height - and a combination of them will play with anti-dive, and kick up

but spacers under the ball studs on the bulkheads and knuckles are what really effects roll center

Butler02

If you raise up your suspension mounts off the chassis it will have a larger effect on roll center than raising ball studs. This is explained by Martin Crisp in his Rc Setup Workbench app and his xxx-main setup guide. I attached a screenshot from his app

Lyrix

Thanks for all the information guys! This helped alot

So by raising the suspension mount it will increase roll center or lowers it? I'm confused

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Raising the arm mounts will raise the roll center. Lowering the inner portion of the camber link and/or raising the outer portion of the camber link will raise the roll center.

Arm mounts give you more adjustment, camber links give you fine tuning.



Edit - Also download this book in the link below. Its the T3 setup manual, but its generic principals that work especially on this car.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6143

Lyrix

Thank you! Gonna put some more shims under inner camper link!
Too bad Spec-r doesnt have the lower and higher plastic cups for the suspension mounts like xray!.

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

I think the .5 and 1.0 shims under them is easier, just loosen the screws and slide them in and out. Plus ARC makes .3mm shims that fit if you really want to get into tuning.

Lyrix

Yeh got that book from my Xray T3 Thanks tho

Yep but this will increase roll center. I need to get lower :P
So my only option is to place shims under the inner camber link and remove the one from the out link i guess..

I'll see how it goes

DBM

My R1 arrived today, so I've been busy assembling it all evening. Everything is going well, and I'm quite impressed with how much $240 can get you! The only thing setback I have had so far was assembling the diff and finding that it wasn't very smooth at all. I tried running it in using a drill, but it only improved marginally. So I took it apart, sanded the gears down a tad more, and reassembled it. It feels much better now.
For comparison sake, I installed tamiya ball cups on one side of the car, and spec-r cups on the other half. The tamiya cups definitely have less play, and don't pop off as easily. $3 well spent.
It is 3am now, and I work at 7am, so I have to stop building for the night. I'll assemble the shocks at work tomorrow, and finish the chassis tomorrow night, and maybe paint the body (Blitz/Titan WRX TC).
Now if only HobbyKing would hurry up and get my esc and servo to me......

mrjudd77

I run with 500K in my front diff. It is fairly disgusting to put in. I used the side of a knife like a spatula to goop it in til it was full.

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

I've just spent the last week interstate (didn't take the cars, lucky because it rained the whole time), been doing some maintenance this morning, I've found that the rear suspension pivot mount is bent, yep that's a piece of 2.5 or 3mm aluminium bent.

The class I race in seem to find that it's easier to use the car ahead as brakes, most of my damage to date has centred around the rear of the car, destroyed rear shocks, torn off shock mount pins, broken ballcups, broken suspension arms, broken pivot pins, bar a front belt issue (which was a badly worn spur gear drive), I've had very few problems with the car.

In fact, since I've missed 2 meetings, I'm not looking forward to putting the car back on the track & facing the repair bills, I've been starting to look around for a nitro TC, there seems to be less 'biff & barge' going on in that class.

Yes I know that you have to expect some 'push & shove' whilst racing, but I've been getting cleaned up 3/4 of the way through the corners AFTER moving aside to give away the 'line'. I'm still getting both the cars & myself 'up to speed', but not sure that I want to continue along the electric TC path as the costs of running the 2 (soon to be 3) cars has become around that of running a gas TC.


Guess what I'm saying is, the cars are built tough, they've taken the pounding I've given them, the only issues I'm having is from impacts from a position that you wouldn't expect (nor would the designers), the fact that the mount has bent & the chassis or any of the other rear end components didn't fail is a testimony to how well the SpecR cars are built, my car is the newer ProSpec model so uses the thinner chassis.

Oh, Marty, this isn't aimed at you, you always run into me in the middle of a straight , pretty sure it's intentional , otherwise how are you going to beat me, oh wait , my car breaks down when the others use me as brakes, then you beat me.