Robbob

iTrader: (7)

Yes if you want to go with hopup metal ones.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7225

valk

iTrader: (13)

Xray part compatability is very nice. I broke all my steering blocks in the same place so thinking t2/3 blocks are gonna be a perm mod to my s1.
I've also broke a hingepin and stripped a couple ballcups and servo arms.
All xray/tamiya now. Otherwise. Happy. I will be going to vbc for modified but happy in stock.

PEEKracing

Frankly I think that replacing the ball cups isn't necessary. I pre-threaded the kit ones with 3mm rh and lh taps and they work perfectly, if you don't want to get the taps you can run the thread in and out of the ball cups a few times and rub a little dry soap on them for lube.

Also go to the SpecR website and follow the instructions they have posted about assembly in the news section November 13, 2012. It is very helpful. They use some anti wear grease, the kit doesn't come with any.

Enjoy!

DBM

I'm going to be placing my order tonight for the Pro Spec. Hopefully this is all of the extra stuff that I'll need (for now):

-52mm DJDCs
-Xray hard bumper
-Tamiya low friction ball cups (which part number do I need?) or o-rings
-extra suspension arms, c-hubs, steering blocks (should I buy Xray T3 parts?)
-stronger hinge pins
-servo saver
-3mm shims and spacers
-pinions and possibly spur (I'm unsure of which FDR to run..also, should I switch to 64p?)
-spool cups
-7mm aluminum hex's (I can machine them down if they are too long...I have a lathe and milling machine)


Our club uses a spec tire...Jaco Blues, but they are obsolete now? What is comparible, and noob friendly?

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

Tamiya ball cups: Tamiya 53601. It's well worth putting an m3 self tapping screw through them first, otherwise they're very hard to get on the turnbuckle.

Tyres: Most people seem to use Sorex 28jb's or 32jb's.

Alloy Hex: The car comes with some (4mm?) as standard.

I'm not sure harder bumpers and stronger hinge pins are necessary tbh.

Robbob

iTrader: (7)

if you go with Xray (or ARC) suspension pieces be sure to order the hinge pins too ..... they are bigger/thicker diameter then SpecR ones. You'd catch two birds with one stone doing this.

as for servo saver - YES! either Xray or Tamiya would be my choice.

DBM

Thanks again, guys! I get this stuff ordered up tonight.

On a slightly related note....I have a mini milling machine (non cnc) and was thinking of trying to machine some arms from 2024 aluminum (I'm out of 7075). I don't think that I have the ability to machine c-hubs or steering blocks though. Aside from it being a potentially fun and rewarding project, is there any reason why we don't see more aluminum suspension components?

Robbob

iTrader: (7)

IMO .... Aluminum arms create worse damage. Arms break and chassis's are saved. Aluminum arms break chassi's .... not to mention a little bend can be missed and oh boy screw with a tweak bar.

IMOx2 lol ...... carbon fiber braces for arms if your looking for just some fun machine time

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

If you want stronger pins try to find some that are 2.5mm w/out being ground for the setscrew, that's where I have seen them break.

Yep, you are just transferring more energy from one part to another as you move to a stronger material. Aluminum arms just break other pieces. Eventually you will transfer the impact force from piece to piece until you likely get to the most expensive piece, the chassis.

DBM

I was wondering if that was the case..... the broken arm absorbs the impact. On my ministock BMW, my race partner and I fabricated our own control arms from 1.5" DOM mild steel. They were designed to bend easily rather than transfer the force into the inner heim joint/subframe. We bent two control arms last year, and had no heim joint failures.

Back on the topic of Xray arms/pins, I wonder if having the flat ground into the pin is a good thing. Better for the pin to break than the arm?

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

I believe when the pin broke it wasn't the only broken piece. Who knows what broke first tho and how they were related...

valk

iTrader: (13)

My problem with the ballcups isn't threading them. They simplu are too soft and pop off far too easy. But a tap isn't a bad idea anyway. Might get a set for misc projects.

PEEKracing

I've never had the ball cups pop off except for one that I didn't cut threads in, and at that only when I adjusted camber, never on the track. I thought that was the problem people had with the ball cups, I'll count myself as lucky then!

As for the outer hinge pin I'm pretty sure the only break when the set screw is to tight, it shouldn't even touch the pin, just be in the slot so that the pin can't fall out, sure it'll slide a little but that won't affect performance. Sometimes I think they should have included nylon set screw's for those pins, it would act less as a fulcrum in a crash and lighten up the unsprung weight a tiny bit.

SteveM

iTrader: (162)

I've run two S1 in the past and I currently run my R1 in VTA and I have never had a ball cup pop off or otherwise fail. I have managed to bend one of the red alloy turnbuckles, but the ball cups never failed. Go figure.

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

Same, I only replaced ball cups to see if they fit tighter on the ball studs... I think thats up for debate, but I think the S1 with sway bars and DCJ's is a perfect setup. Just get some shims for the steering rack and spur gear shaft and you will be fine.