SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Sounds interesting and I was thinking of trying a shorty pack this weekend in my R1 for my club's VTA class.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Pardon my ignorance, but with a minimum weight requirement of VTA (and most other classes) why switch to a shorty if you'll need to add more weight anyway? Are you guys just trying to distribute the weight to a different area of the car? I'm running a 6500mah full pack and the car is pretty balanced left-to-right. All of my extra weight was added to the front half of the car.

On the other hand I'm running a shorty in my F1, but that's because our F1 class has no minimum weight requirement. So, there, any weight you can shave off is good (well, up to a point )

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

I was trying a different setups to shave weight off of my TC; I use a 17.5 motor with an open esc. With the shorty it performed well and felt easier to drive. I initially tried a 7200mah 70c lipo and it felt like a boat. 5500mah 60c packs have also worked out well but I'm gonna experiment more with shorty packs.

I use shorty packs exclusively on my off road 2wd stock SC truck and on a high bite track I turn faster lap times than with a stick pack.

mrjudd77

Tried a Hard Case in mine on the weekend. A combination of this and a slight improvement in my driving resulted in a 2 second improvement in my PB lap time

valk

iTrader: (13)

holy crap you weren't kidding about the tamiya ballcups. those banches are tough to get on.

the whole shorty pack thing seems moot in touring car classes with the weight you have to add back to make weight. though i suppose it allows you to adjust where the battery weight sits on the car which has some advantage. I usually just adjust that by moving the axles forward or back to push the entire center of mass forward or back.
the 5600packs i run almost perfectly balance the car with my orca/speed passion power system. since the only part of that side of the car that moves is the motor, and really.. only moves very small amount.. meh to moving the battery.
now a transverse shorty pack is another story entirely and could greatly influence the traction of the car when moved around.

im not sure the flexibility is worth more than the higher consistant voltage a higher capacity battery offers. in modified it doesnt even seem like an option.

mrjudd77

Any specials on Spec-R in the lead up to Xmas? I have been allocated a budget for my hobby to spend as a present and want to get the best bang for buck. Also must be delivered to Australia

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

Rcmart seem to be the cheapest. USD85 for the s1 and USD270 for the r1 pro spec.

They've also got a combo offer on the s1 which includes a 13.5 motor and esc, servo and radio for USD190.

http://www.rcmart.com/kits-spec-c-420_1581.html

I've nearly finished my s1, just need to spray the body. Can't wait to get it out on the track.

One thing I've noticed though is that the sway bars don't seem too do much. I've never used them before but I believed that lifting one wheel would cause the other to rise. Mine doesn't seem to do anything.

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

You probably did something wrong, if you use the grub screws on the back part of the bulkheads, back them out a fair way, you want them to be only just touching the the sway bar. Also make sure there is no binding in the arms, as that will stop them working right as well. If the arms do not fall down under their own weight, sand down the 2mm spacer on the hinge pin till they work free again, i found they are just a bit tight.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

On my R1, with the shocks removed and the sway bars connected, moving one suspension arm in turn moves the other. You must have some binding some place.

daveaustin5

iTrader: (1)

I didn't ream the arms so perhaps it's that. I'll get a reamer and give it a try.

.crispy

I got a 3mm reamer per the manual. It slipped right through. Arms still bound up. I used a drill bit.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Heh. Swaybar quality seems meh. I built the car with perfect freeness in the arms and the rollbar sits flat on table and moves freely in its keeper. Though, lifting left side lifts right but right wont lift left. Not sure whyas everything moves freely as it should and links same length.

Wire swaybars are always fiddly lol

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Check for preload. If one side has preload it will behave unevenly.
My son's r1 sway bars work as good as my t4 bars.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Mine worked great when i got them lol. I mght try one of the bars i dont use. I defaulted my endlinks with 1mm shims both. I suppose i could remove those but that kust means the bar has tweaked in under an hours running lol.

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-included.html

Selling a very good condition R1, fully upgraded.

Will also have a good sized (NIB) parts selection for sale, pm with any questions.