MC112b

iTrader: (64)

Just got an email from them. They said they had sent me an email because the top deck I ordered wasn't recommended with the center motor mount. I never saw any email, so never responded. After a few day delay they went ahead and shipped it.

The whole thought and intention is awesome. Sucks it wasn't executed.

So now I apparently have a mismatched pile of parts coming. I really wish they would of just had an upgrade kit. Worse case I don't run the center motor mount until I figure out which top deck is required.

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

Pretty sure all you have to do is drill one hole in the top deck to make it work with the new motor mount, all it does is have a place for a screw to limit or change the amount of flex in the top deck.

The correct top decks are type A or B Narrow, and in most cases you will probably want to have no screw in there anyways for maximum flex, so dont stress it, it will work.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

I have had nothing bend or break yet while using them on both my previous car 416 and my R1 now no pin wear or anything else. This is all with steel bones I would think that any alum bone would bend right away.

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

I've broken hinge-pins and bent rear hub ball studs from hitting the wall. but never broken or bent an axle or aluminum dog bone. Aluminum bones are fine as long its 17.5 or 13.5 blinky .

TheCarbabe

Hi!
I bought a S1 a while ago, and finaly found the time to build it. I will not race it, just playing around on a small carpet-track. This is the first 4wd touring "race"car I've built, but I think I did quite well.
I have only one issue so far. I've read all the 130 pages in this thread (maybe missed one or five ) but did not see it adressed.
The rear belt rubs on the spur. Feel like I hav tried everything. Something just seem to be a bit off.
Built by thebook except for some shimming to get rid of some play here and there.
Do you guys have any hints for me?

Nina

.crispy

Shouldn't be possible. You don't have the gear diff flipped around the wrong way do you?

Or did you miss the black plastic spacers inboard of the bearings on the gear diff?

Take a picture and post it here.

TheCarbabe

Thanks!
On closer inspection both belts creep inward while the car is rolling.

Will take some pics later.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Pictures would definitely help, but I'm not sure how your belts can creep inward. As was asked above, are you sure your diff and spool are flipped the correct way? My belts run perfectly parallel down the center, I really have no idea how you could even get them at an angle unless the diff/spool are flipped.

Anyway, take a picture and we'll help

valk

iTrader: (13)

Make sure the tensioners are set the same. It can be tricky on this car to get them to sit right when you tighten the upper bulkheads down.

TheCarbabe

The diffs are the right way. Otherwise it would completely lock up. Or the belt would walk outwards at the diffs.

I was pretty sure that I got the tensioners right, but I was kind of tired Will look into that...
thanks a lot so far!

valk

iTrader: (13)

Alternately, you might need to adjust the shimming on your layshaft or the difs themselves. I never worry about this to be honest. Unless the belts are binding badly on the sides of he pullies or want to jump off. Never had a tc where the belts didnt wander a little.

TheCarbabe

Looks like I'm having issues uploading pics here. Technology these days.

Maybe it's ok and that it is all the miniZ racing that makes me ekstremely vary of slop and drag.

Bappe

tried my updated r1 for the first time on carpet today (low traction) car handles really nice with the flexier parts, just needs to find the right flexpoint. also we have gone from 17.5boost to blinky here, as the class now are now rather slow there are more to do with cornerspeeds, the new chassi/topdeck/motormount are a BIG improvement from the old r1 carbon parts! really looking forward to the first racemeeting for the season!

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Alright, I've pretty much had it with the stock plastic outdrives for the front spool. If I want metal outdrives up front, what are my options? Any metal ones fit the stock spool?

I know I can put a gear diff up front and stuff it with putty, but I'm hoping I can still work with this spool. If not, which metal-outdrive spools would fit? I've only seen the Tamiya 417 mentioned once.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Spec R makes spring steel outdrives....

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3022