Spec-R R1

Old 09-23-2013, 05:09 AM
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Guys... what gear ratio is the best for 11.5T boost on a large track for R1 with 64pitch?
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
Just got the pro version partially assembled and ran into this issue.

The motor/shaft mount pieces and the bulkhead are different heights....why??? But here is the issue, it says to put 1mm spacer on top of the motor/shaft mount to equalize the height. That doesn't do it. Still tweaks the chassis bad when you do this. Anyone else run into this and have a solution?
Something is not right, 1mm spacer should do it on the lay shaft holder or the center motor mount. On mine it is perfect, I even have to loosen the top deck to put in or remove a 1mm spacer.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
Something is not right, 1mm spacer should do it on the lay shaft holder or the center motor mount. On mine it is perfect, I even have to loosen the top deck to put in or remove a 1mm spacer.
+1
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
Something is not right, 1mm spacer should do it on the lay shaft holder or the center motor mount. On mine it is perfect, I even have to loosen the top deck to put in or remove a 1mm spacer.
I was about to say that. I can confirm this to be the case, though I run without the screws over the motor mount for added flexibility (still running the original R1 chassis and top deck.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:08 AM
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By the way, I'm happy to report that my R1 did great on carpet this past weekend. I applied what I learned this past summer to getting it set up properly and driving it better and it handled smoothly and without any chassis issues.

However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.

I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.

Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
By the way, I'm happy to report that my R1 did great on carpet this past weekend. I applied what I learned this past summer to getting it set up properly and driving it better and it handled smoothly and without any chassis issues.

However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.

I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.

Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving
Haha....I was having exactly 100% same situation with you on my last weekend race.
The servo steering link came off after a hit from the side and this.....happened for 2 times,see pic.

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Old 09-23-2013, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
Something is not right, 1mm spacer should do it on the lay shaft holder or the center motor mount. On mine it is perfect, I even have to loosen the top deck to put in or remove a 1mm spacer.
I took all of those pieces off, bulkheads and motor/shaft mount. Rebuilt it from the rear to the front. Finally got it to not be tweaked sitting on my board, but its still "built in". The top deck is about 2 mm off the front deck when the rear is completed. Oh well it works now

For anyone wondering, the xray gears fit wonderful. With unflanged bearings you have to cut about .5mm off the white bushings to make room. I used flanged though.

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Old 09-24-2013, 08:18 AM
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I ordered some goodies from SpecR on 9-11. Is this soon to be 2+ week wait common?
We start inside in 2 weeks, I wanted to have the car updated and ready to get dialed by now.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:59 AM
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I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
I don't run it, but have considered it. I've torn up a few plastic outdrives in my stock spool, but lately they've been ok. Once I run out of replacements, I'll probably pick up a metal replacement.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
I have used them with my 416 and my Spec R both times with good results. I have not used the plastic spool outdrives for the spec r I just upgraded to the steel ones right away.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I have not used the plastic spool outdrives for the spec r I just upgraded to the steel ones right away.
Smart man, you saved yourself a lot of headaches!
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:56 PM
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I'm still running the plastic out drives on the spool and I haven't had any issues. The bolt that goes through them into the spool is too short and I used one about 2mm longer.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
I ordered some goodies from SpecR on 9-11. Is this soon to be 2+ week wait common?
We start inside in 2 weeks, I wanted to have the car updated and ready to get dialed by now.
Actually that is a bit unusual, on slow post, generally you will have it in 7 days. I have had one package get lost and that took 3 weeks or there abouts to arrive, but spec-r were great, after i notified them of it being late, they got onto HK post about it and said if you have not got it in 7 days, we will repost it at their expense. It arrived one day before the time limit, date stamped the day they said it was posted, so it was just lost, not tracking number games that some places do, issue the number and send it a week later.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I don't run it, but have considered it. I've torn up a few plastic outdrives in my stock spool, but lately they've been ok. Once I run out of replacements, I'll probably pick up a metal replacement.
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
I have used them with my 416 and my Spec R both times with good results. I have not used the plastic spool outdrives for the spec r I just upgraded to the steel ones right away.

I have had good luck with my associated car, never broke one in two years and I have not touched the wall with my trf417. The tamiya are just fine to me, but I seem to grow white hairs and have chit hit the fan every time I tried to take that stupid plastic snap in outdrive just to clean the damn bearings. Seems like the spec-r is just drop and play. Was mainly concerned how durable the outdrive is and if I was to hit a wall ( dog bone, outdrive, axle) is the carnage since there won't be any give??
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