Spec-R R1
#1982
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)

Just got the pro version partially assembled and ran into this issue.
The motor/shaft mount pieces and the bulkhead are different heights....why??? But here is the issue, it says to put 1mm spacer on top of the motor/shaft mount to equalize the height. That doesn't do it. Still tweaks the chassis bad when you do this. Anyone else run into this and have a solution?
The motor/shaft mount pieces and the bulkhead are different heights....why??? But here is the issue, it says to put 1mm spacer on top of the motor/shaft mount to equalize the height. That doesn't do it. Still tweaks the chassis bad when you do this. Anyone else run into this and have a solution?
#1983
#1985

By the way, I'm happy to report that my R1 did great on carpet this past weekend. I applied what I learned this past summer to getting it set up properly and driving it better and it handled smoothly and without any chassis issues.
However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.
I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving
However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.
I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving

#1986
Tech Apprentice

By the way, I'm happy to report that my R1 did great on carpet this past weekend. I applied what I learned this past summer to getting it set up properly and driving it better and it handled smoothly and without any chassis issues.
However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.
I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving
However, the evening started off pretty rough. Within the first 5 minutes of practice, I broke the left hub carrier and stripped the left hub, then a minute or two into the next run I stripped the right hub. At the bench, I also noticed that my outside hinge pin was cracked! I think those parts must have been weakened (or even cracked) from last season of bad driving, and I didn't notice the issues when I was going over the car. But, once replaced, all was mostly fine.
I say "mostly" because I still experienced the issue of the car pulling to one side after an impact in the A main. I got side-swiped by another car and flipped a few times, after that the car was pulling to the right significantly. When I looked at it on the bench, the steering rack was definitely at an angle when the servo was pointing "straight" The servo horn didn't skip (I checked it), I have a metal gear BLS551 servo, so the only thing I could think of was the servo steering link skipping a few threads in the ball cups. I'm using Tamiya low friction cups (like many of you), but haven't changed them from last season. So, I swapped those for new ones and I'm hoping I won't have this problem anymore. I also put a servo saver back on just in case.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling here. Point is, the R1 is, as noted, a very capable car... if you don't suck at driving

The servo steering link came off after a hit from the side and this.....happened for 2 times,see pic.

#1987


For anyone wondering, the xray gears fit wonderful. With unflanged bearings you have to cut about .5mm off the white bushings to make room. I used flanged though.

#1988

I ordered some goodies from SpecR on 9-11. Is this soon to be 2+ week wait common?
We start inside in 2 weeks, I wanted to have the car updated and ready to get dialed by now.
We start inside in 2 weeks, I wanted to have the car updated and ready to get dialed by now.
#1989

I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
#1990

I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
#1991
Tech Champion

iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)

I'm popping in here to get some feedback on the spec-r (if any run it) front spool with steel outdrives.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3021
#1993

I'm still running the plastic out drives on the spool and I haven't had any issues. The bolt that goes through them into the spool is too short and I used one about 2mm longer.
#1994


#1995

I have had good luck with my associated car, never broke one in two years and I have not touched the wall with my trf417. The tamiya are just fine to me, but I seem to grow white hairs and have chit hit the fan every time I tried to take that stupid plastic snap in outdrive just to clean the damn bearings. Seems like the spec-r is just drop and play. Was mainly concerned how durable the outdrive is and if I was to hit a wall ( dog bone, outdrive, axle) is the carnage since there won't be any give??