Spec-R R1

Old 09-04-2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Is there any other Spec-R setup sheet database besides PetitRC? I'm specifically looking for VTA carpet setups to wrap my brain around a couple of things.
hi
I have a good set up sheet on my blog at www.spec-r-racer.com
it works well for me but i have to say that tyre choice is critical if using rubber. I changed from foams & found it difficult initially.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:44 AM
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Set up with the option 2.25 narrow chassis, pro spec carbon top deck shock towers and aluminum parts.

Attached Thumbnails Spec-R R1-r1-2sm.jpg  
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
Set up with the option 2.25 narrow chassis, pro spec carbon top deck shock towers and aluminum parts.
How are you liking the narrow chassis? I'm trying to decide if it's worth the upgrade, though my R1 will be running at VTA speeds, rubber tires on carpet. I think I may not notice much of a difference.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:10 PM
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Low friction belts for the T4, looks like they should be an exact fit for the R1/S1. http://www.redrc.net/2013/09/xray-t4...-kevlar-belts/
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:30 PM
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Was going to get those until i saw the price.... would look nice on my car
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
Was going to get those until i saw the price.... would look nice on my car
Yeah i agree, if it has the word Xray on it, you know it is going to be $5 more than any other comparable low friction belt.

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=182

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=180

You can always paint them with white shoe paint if you want the white bling factor
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:04 PM
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Any running on 64p spur? How many teeth to get between 5.5-7 fdr? What other brand of "white" spur would fit? I know Panaracer & 3 racing would fit, might need shim for Panaracer.

Many thanks!!
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:11 PM
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I run a white HPI 64p spur. 96 tooth. It is thin in the middle. I use the white bushings on both sides. Fits perfect.

Pinions in the 20's and 30's would get you to that FDR.

You should be able to move the motor far enough in to make that work.

I know with my 96 spur, I can't really get more than a 55 tooth pinion in there, but I haven't gone past 43 the other way.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:45 PM
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I just run kimbrough pancar spurs. No shimming but i installed my layshaft bushings backwards. I shim the stepped side of them to center the spur. Manual way is dumb. At least for my s1.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
I just run kimbrough pancar spurs. No shimming but i installed my layshaft bushings backwards. I shim the stepped side of them to center the spur. Manual way is dumb. At least for my s1.
HEHE, I run 1 white and one standard POM, with 3Racing spurs, it seems to work just right,
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Manual way is dumb. At least for my s1.
The new addendum for the Pro Spec R1 has done away with the "inside" shims for the layshaft.

The key here is how thick is your Spur in the center section where the pulleys attach? That is going to determine the amount of shimming necessary.

With my spurs and the white bushings, it is perfect.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:06 PM
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I was tempted to try those white bushings. ive added .25mm in pancar rear axle shims to each side of the bushings which isn't perfect, but allows me to use most pancar spurs with a little bit of play. in stock i dont care about a little side play in the shaft as the layshaft seems to fit the bearings well enough that there isnt really any deflection. mod, i might care. but changing the spurgear is actually possible without those damn shims the manual says lol.

though.. looks a little ghetto with half a mil of layshaft sticking out one side of the car lol.

Just got my swaybar parts. car comes with most of the plastics needed to make it work but need a few more ballcups, studs ect. couldnt get the specr rod stops in time so got top instead. and spent $30ish restocking my shims. car needs a ton of micoshimming so almost wish i baught two sets of 53585..

if i ever make a touring car kit, tamiya 53585 is going to be standard issue as even the $500 cars are sloppy bantches.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
How are you liking the narrow chassis? I'm trying to decide if it's worth the upgrade, though my R1 will be running at VTA speeds, rubber tires on carpet. I think I may not notice much of a difference.
I feel it carries more corner speed, I went faster with it. With a layout change I ended with way too much steering. Still experimenting with adjusting the flex.

In VTA it may not make a difference since you will have to add so much more weight.
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge T View Post
I feel it carries more corner speed, I went faster with it. With a layout change I ended with way too much steering. Still experimenting with adjusting the flex.

In VTA it may not make a difference since you will have to add so much more weight.
Yeah, we're running at 1450 grams, so I wasn't sure it's worth the upgrade either. I'm eager to see how the R1 handles for me this season, now that I can hopefully keep it away from walls
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
It really sounds like you want 35wt in the front and 25wt in the rear. Also don't use so much tire compound on the front tires. Maybe cover the whole rear tire and just the inside half of the front. Also you can put the compound on the rear tires first and let it set for an extra 10 minutes before you put any on the front tires then clean them both off at the same time. Also make sure you have the stiffer of the two kit springs on the front shocks and the softer springs on the rear. Good luck!
Any idea which springs are harder/softer in the S1 kit? Manual doesn't really say, and I haven't been able to find out...
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