JimmyMack12

Ahhh...those would be "electronics", then When someone says "drive train", I think drive belts, gears, diffs, spools, one-ways, driveshafts, gearbox, dog bones, etc.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...rl&filter_mfr=

There's a couple cheap options at the top. Don't know about competitiveness.

Used motors are cheap and fairly trustworthy. Used ESCs maybe not so much.

-Mike

valk

iTrader: (13)

Hey, ill buy what the class specifies to compete but newbs arent nessisarily happy to spend $300 on a power system heh.

I picked this up for the s1. http://m.rcmart.com/mobile_product_i...ducts_id=36959
40 amps is tons for stock touring car. Might not have quite the same punch as a high end esc but 200watts is 200 watts.

Pretty excited to get the car and this power system. I baught orca competition stuff for my serpent but if i can finish top 3-5 in club racing with this stuff it will be a great illustration of the requirements to start racing.

Id be suggesting cheaper stuff like the hobbyking stuff but trying to keep roar approved. For local club racing doesnt really matter but we do host large events.
Car and power system puts me at $220 with spares atm plus shipping.

JimmyMack12

Spec-R S1:

Getting the car to handle: took the car to the track for its maiden voyage last weekend. Medium-grip carpet (old carpet; getting replaced this month). Running it in VTA (Novak Edge/25.5 motor, 5000mAh SMC). Had to add over 100 grams (3.5 ounces) in weight; not much room to place it. Both front and rear shocks are laid in nearly to the most-inside. 25wt in front, 35wt in rear. Stock springs (might have others I can try). 3.0 degrees of toe-in in the rear. Put some SXT on the tires.

The car just wanted to spin out in every turn. I tried turning the steering way down. I had let off the throttle *waaaaay* back to even get the car to kind of "lay" into the turns, and even slower through the esses. Don't know how much "droop" is in it, as I don't have a gauge. But, the set screws in the A-arms are not even all the way through, so the arms lay down to the chassis. Had plenty of speed on straightaway (with the "fast" guys as far as the straightaway goes), but, because I had to let off early, they'd kick my a$$ through the infield.

Any suggestions?

.crispy

Stand up the shocks!
Center positions for me and my vta was money.

JimmyMack12

Thanks. I got told by one of the "hot shoes" to lay 'em down.

I'll try that and go from there

.crispy

You got "Hot Shoes" running a Spec-R?

I've never even seen another one on a track until last night.

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

Maybe try the same oil weight all the way around, not sure that heavier in the rear is the way to go. Did you raise the front links (inner) ? Might be something you could try as well.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Just looking at your posted setup you should change the oil in your shocks first. 25wt in the front is really light and will lead to massive amounts of steering when the rear is a heavier wt oil if both have the same size and number of hole pistions installed. It really sounds like you want 35wt in the front and 25wt in the rear. Also dont use so much tire compound on the front tires. Maybe cover the whole rear tire and just the inside half of the front. Also you can put the compound on the rear tires first and let it set for an extra 10 minutes before you put any on the front tires then clean them both off at the same time. Also make sure you have the stiffer of the two kit springs on the front shocks and the softer springs on the rear. Good luck!

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

Laying the shocks over produces grip, if you are snap spinning out, it is not because of a lack of grip, it is because something else is fundamentally wrong with the geometry.

The main things i would look for, as this was what was also wrong with my S1, are weight transfer and droop. If the transmission is too tight, it will act as a brake, throwing all the weight forward off power unsettling the rear, and make sure you have rear droop.

You do not need gauges to check you have droop, only measure how much, place thumb and pinky finger on the wheels and lift the chassis with the other hand. 4 to 5mm of chassis rise is about 2mm of droop at the arms.

Hope that helps you, i also found that the S1 is too stiff out of the box, play with spring rates and shock oils to get it to feel planted.

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

I'm thinking about getting a spec r s1 to run in 17.5 TC class. Is this a good kit for a small carpet track? I was thinking about getting sway bars & double jointed front driveshafts. Are there any other must have upgrades?

valk

iTrader: (13)

Double jointed shafts probably defeat the purpose of a cheap car. Though swaybars are a must id say.
Im testing out the car in the same class but didnt realize it doesnt come with swaybars ha.

DriveItLikeYSIT

iTrader: (93)

I know the CV swing shafts increase the build cost but they were cheaper than ceramic bearings What setup sheet are you using / testing ?

valk

iTrader: (13)

I just make up my own. But will be similar setup to the xray i borrowed. Ill be running on ashphalt with sweep 32r tires. I usually start around 40 wt 4 hole shocks, 2.5 droop front 3 rear. Middle camber link hole front and rear with 3/4 mm shims under them. Spec r might be slightly different but we will see.

3* toe in the rear seems pretty standard and 0.5-1.5 front. 1* camber front 1.5 rear. We will see how it works though i really wish i had noticed the no swaybars when i ordered some parts from tq. Dont wanna do a seperate order just to get rollbars.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Hi JimmyMack12, as a base set up, you'll need the front a bit firmer than the rear - oil and springs, also raise the inner camber links. I have a carpet set up on my blog at www.spec-r-racer.com - our club has an old, low grip carpet as well, so the set up could be OK for you.

You've also got a lot of weight on the car, I don't put any on mine. Good luck with the set up and keep us updated with your car.