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Old 07-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #1726
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Hey guys, im going to get myself a spec-r s1 and i have no onroad motor or esc for it so i as thinking of putting my castle creations sidewinder sct motor combo on it. Would it fit correctly? Would it burn the motor or esc? Im not going to race it, im just going to run it on the street infront of my house. Also am i able of putting the servo and remote that the hpi blitz brought on the touring car? Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it.
You should be able to mount any 540-size motor in it; the car comes with an 84-tooth, 48-pitch spur gear. The electronics are a bit of a tight fit on my S1; I run a Spektrum receiver, a Futaba S9650 servo (had to drill a new hole for the smaller servo), and a Novak Edge ESC. Only way you'd "burn" up the motor is with too much gearing (big pinion, big spur = lots of heat). Not sure how big that ESC is, but, the Novak that I run is kind of small compared to my Castle Mamba Max Pro, and it's still a tight squeeze.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:33 AM   #1727
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Alright, yea im still gunna get a different motor for it anyways. Im just going to put my castle creations motor and esc, servo, radio for just testing. Im not going to race it with this setup. Im going to get a racing motor and esc brand, a higher torq or speed servo, and a different radio. Thanks guys
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:14 PM   #1728
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Would the turnigy trackstar 60a esc work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t brushless motor? Would the hobbyking x-car 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing ezrun 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing c-xerun 60a work with the turnigy track star 6.5t? Thanks guys
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:56 PM   #1729
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[...]

- Longer camber links that are higher on the inside can help too, by reducing camber gain and lowering the roll center (I think a lower roll center also helps to suck the car down to the track, but I'm not totally clear on that).

[...]

-Mike
I'm quite sure of the contrary...

That's a matter of geometry. Check that image:


I've validated all these hypothesis with RCCrewChief simulation... So I'm 99% sure of that.

By the way what is really matter is the distance between the roll center and the mass center. This is where the momentum is coming from. So when you are lowering your mass center (adding weight on the chassis, of better, below the battery) you are acting the right way to fight traction roll...
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:44 PM   #1730
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I'm quite sure of the contrary...

That's a matter of geometry. Check that image:
<snip>

I've validated all these hypothesis with RCCrewChief simulation... So I'm 99% sure of that.
If that's the only one I got wrong, I think I'm doing pretty well.

I do wish I had a firmer grasp on camber links. I think part of my problem is that there's a lot that changes when you mess with them, and the effects can work against each other. Lower roll center = more grip, but less camber gain generally = less grip. And whether going one way or the other helps or hurts in any given situation depends on what will have the bigger influence with the rest of your setup, the track, the tires, even your driving style, etc.

Generally what I've experienced any time I've made small changes is that lower on the inside of the front links gives more front end bite, and higher gives less bite. Too much bite can make the car turn in too hard, creating a lot of roll momentum, and flipping the car. But not enough bite can also create understeer, leading to trying to use too much steering throw, and still flipping the car.

The trend that I've seen in team driver setups (on the Mi4, haven't paid too much attention to other cars, but they're all so similar...) is that high bite carpet = longer + higher inside links, and lower-bite asphalt = shorter / lower inside links.

Quote:
By the way what is really matter is the distance between the roll center and the mass center. This is where the momentum is coming from. So when you are lowering your mass center (adding weight on the chassis, of better, below the battery) you are acting the right way to fight traction roll...
I don't think that's necessarily true. It's true that the distance between roll center and mass center (roll couple) is a big factor in determining how much the car wants to roll. However, it's not necessarily true that more roll = traction roll. High roll centers make the car roll less, but they can effectively make the car pole-vault over the outside tires making a very sharp and sudden roll. On the other hand, a lower roll center will make the car roll more, but it also lets the suspension soak up and control the roll better, and can actually lead to less traction roll, or a roll that comes on more gently that you might actually be able to steer out of.

-Mike
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:24 AM   #1731
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Originally Posted by blitz98 View Post
Hey guys, im going to get myself a spec-r s1 and i have no onroad motor or esc for it so i as thinking of putting my castle creations sidewinder sct motor combo on it. Would it fit correctly? Would it burn the motor or esc? Im not going to race it, im just going to run it on the street infront of my house. Also am i able of putting the servo and remote that the hpi blitz brought on the touring car? Thanks for the help guys, really appreciate it.
I really would not use the S1 (or R1) to run in the street. The car is way too low and a bit too delicate for that kind of environment. If you want a street racer, look at something like the TC4, though personally I'd recommend an XV-01.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:03 AM   #1732
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Are Xray T3 belts and Specs R R1/S1 interchangable ? pretty much everything else is on the cars, just wondered about the belts ?
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:05 AM   #1733
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yes they are
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:25 AM   #1734
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yes they are
Thanks Bappe - thought so !
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #1735
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Would the turnigy trackstar 60a esc work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t brushless motor? Would the hobbyking x-car 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing ezrun 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing c-xerun 60a work with the turnigy track star 6.5t? Thanks guys
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:53 PM   #1736
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Would the turnigy trackstar 60a esc work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t brushless motor? Would the hobbyking x-car 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing ezrun 60a work with the turnigy trackstar 6.5t? Would the hobbywing c-xerun 60a work with the turnigy track star 6.5t? Thanks guys

I have an Hobbyking X-Car 60A and Trackstar 7.5 in my Mod Car, changed the software in it to have boost and turbo, works a treat, i have the same esc and 10.5 trackstar in my stock car, and a trackstar one cell esc and trackstar 10.5 in my 1/12th scale.

If you are racing on a budget, or if you are like me do not want to spend tons of coin, the trackstar stuff is the shizzat.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:31 PM   #1737
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I have an Hobbyking X-Car 60A and Trackstar 7.5 in my Mod Car, changed the software in it to have boost and turbo, works a treat, i have the same esc and 10.5 trackstar in my stock car, and a trackstar one cell esc and trackstar 10.5 in my 1/12th scale.

If you are racing on a budget, or if you are like me do not want to spend tons of coin, the trackstar stuff is the shizzat.
How do you like your hobbywing esc andtrackstar motor? Can i use a 6.5t motor with a 60a esc?
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:44 PM   #1738
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How do you like your hobbywing esc andtrackstar motor? Can i use a 6.5t motor with a 60a esc?
This is the esc i use

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10_1_12_.html

with this motor

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_5485KV.html

and this to change the software:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...A_60A_ESC.html

I love them.

The esc will be fine with that motor, if you are using boost software I would use anyless more than a 7.5, if you are using the zero timing software, you can use down to a 5.5 no problems.

These esc are clones of the Hobbywing escs and thus you can change the software on them to the current software on Hobbywings site, using that USB plug.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:09 AM   #1739
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
If that's the only one I got wrong, I think I'm doing pretty well.

I do wish I had a firmer grasp on camber links. I think part of my problem is that there's a lot that changes when you mess with them, and the effects can work against each other. Lower roll center = more grip, but less camber gain generally = less grip. And whether going one way or the other helps or hurts in any given situation depends on what will have the bigger influence with the rest of your setup, the track, the tires, even your driving style, etc.

Generally what I've experienced any time I've made small changes is that lower on the inside of the front links gives more front end bite, and higher gives less bite. Too much bite can make the car turn in too hard, creating a lot of roll momentum, and flipping the car. But not enough bite can also create understeer, leading to trying to use too much steering throw, and still flipping the car.

The trend that I've seen in team driver setups (on the Mi4, haven't paid too much attention to other cars, but they're all so similar...) is that high bite carpet = longer + higher inside links, and lower-bite asphalt = shorter / lower inside links.



I don't think that's necessarily true. It's true that the distance between roll center and mass center (roll couple) is a big factor in determining how much the car wants to roll. However, it's not necessarily true that more roll = traction roll. High roll centers make the car roll less, but they can effectively make the car pole-vault over the outside tires making a very sharp and sudden roll. On the other hand, a lower roll center will make the car roll more, but it also lets the suspension soak up and control the roll better, and can actually lead to less traction roll, or a roll that comes on more gently that you might actually be able to steer out of.

-Mike
I must admit I've quite never run in so-high grip conditions to experiment so critical traction roll. Usually, I'm running in low-medium grip asphalt conditions. By the way, in these conditions, the positions of the roll centers are also critical and from what I experiment, their positions and the configuration of the momentum are way more critical than the camber gain... It was a critical setup parameter in the past but it seems to be a little bit overrated now...

I was thinking about another parameter which could limit the phenomen. Maybe you can try to minimize the rear droop to limit the mass transfers in the braking phase. What do you think?
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:12 PM   #1740
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Originally Posted by RogerDaShrubber View Post
This is the esc i use

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10_1_12_.html

with this motor

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_5485KV.html

and this to change the software:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...A_60A_ESC.html

I love them.

The esc will be fine with that motor, if you are using boost software I would use anyless more than a 7.5, if you are using the zero timing software, you can use down to a 5.5 no problems.

These esc are clones of the Hobbywing escs and thus you can change the software on them to the current software on Hobbywings site, using that USB plug.
Alright, ima go with the hobbyking x-car 60a esc and the track star 6.5t motor. Good stuff for under $100
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