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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 03-19-2013, 07:10 PM
  #1021  
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Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
You ran stiffer springs to reduce initial bite? I'll be taking that one with a pinch of salt as I have always found a harder front (spring or tyre) to sharpen up the initial response but give less mid corner...
depends on track conditions

SOFTER – more steering but may dig or square up too hard.
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:22 AM
  #1022  
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Originally Posted by Max K View Post
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
I disagree with the last bit of that. Stiffer springs induce more weight transfer so the outside front tyre will bite harder on corner entry. You'll then get less mid corner steering once you've fully loaded the tyre up and applied max steering lock. When that happens the tyre exceeds its maximum lateral force and loses grip.

It is an easy assumption to make that a harder tyre or stiffer spring makes the car feel safer and smoother. I find if I run a front tyre or spring that is too hard, the car will be snatchy at the front end and often take 2 or 3 attempts at getting into the corner, after which it understeers on the apex.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:02 AM
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I think I was feeling mid corner when I was talking about a stiffer front spring. It reacts quicker initially but was smoother throughout the rest of the corner.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Max K View Post
I think I was feeling mid corner when I was talking about a stiffer front spring. It reacts quicker initially but was smoother throughout the rest of the corner.
I think the whole argument here revolves around track conditions. On Med to low bite tracks, I find that softer springs offer less initial steering and exit steering, but more mid-corner. As the bite ramps up to the levels we see at major events in the US, it almost seems like a softer front spring "gives-up" mid corner and makes the car "plow" through the apex. In this instance a stiffer front spring tends to mellow the car out on entry, but lets the weight transfer into the tire, rather than getting lost in the softer spring rate, and therefore steers more in the center.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:31 PM
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I have my spare for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...rvo-parts.html
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:05 AM
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Can someone help me out on this battery install issue. I'm trying to put my tp 5400 prorace 65c battery in but the top plate won't line up and screw down. What do I need to do to fit it. It appears to be as far back as it can go but the cap head screw won't go down into the shelf on the battery thanks for any help.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:07 AM
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You will have to trim the head of the bolt on one side to give you enough offset. Oddly enough, the CRC batteries fit really nice. I would consider one for your next battery.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
You will have to trim the head of the bolt on one side to give you enough offset. Oddly enough, the CRC batteries fit really nice. I would consider one for your next battery.
Before I start messing with it ill check out what my shop has first or ill order a few crc ones thanks
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:26 AM
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I would dremel grind half the bolt head off before ordering a battery. $0.15 part vs $65 part.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
I would dremel grind half the bolt head off before ordering a battery. $0.15 part vs $65 part.
True ill look at it closer it looked to be at least half the cap head but ill do a little grinding and testing. Dumb ? As you can tell I'm new into 1/12 do you guys just leave the battery in or have multi batts.. Just wondering because I only have the one and if I was going to use more than one make sure there close in size so one isn't loose or to tight thanks.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:09 AM
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I Dremeled a small notch in my battery case to allow the screw to trap the battery. It locked the battery in place and allowed the top plate to sit flat.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:04 AM
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My speed control is just ahead of the battery so it can't go anywhere. I left the bolt and the antenna mount completely off (I run the Audi open body quite often and there isn't any clearance between it and that plate anyways).
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gso125 View Post
Can someone help me out on this battery install issue. I'm trying to put my tp 5400 prorace 65c battery in but the top plate won't line up and screw down. What do I need to do to fit it. It appears to be as far back as it can go but the cap head screw won't go down into the shelf on the battery thanks for any help.
am I missing something or is it just the spring preload on the shock?

compress the shock slightly or remove the center shock and see if the holes line up?
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by madjack View Post
am I missing something or is it just the spring preload on the shock?

compress the shock slightly or remove the center shock and see if the holes line up?
If you look at the pic the battery is a bit to long. I was going to grind the cap screw but decided I'm going to just use double sided mip servo tape and leave it in the car. Remove the cap screw and antenna mount.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gso125 View Post
If you look at the pic the battery is a bit to long. I was going to grind the cap screw but decided I'm going to just use double sided mip servo tape and leave it in the car. Remove the cap screw and antenna mount.
The bottom of the battery plate should be flush to sit on the battery. Did you use the right fasteners? I'm not seeing the problem from your pic. Here are some pics of my car. I have a Futaba R204GF-E receiver with an internal antenna so I don't have the antenna mount. The forward most hole on the battery plate isn't countersunk. Put your antenna mount in the first countersunk hole with a countersink screw. Your battery isn't too long.











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