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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 02-18-2020, 04:46 AM
  #2746  
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Originally Posted by Race19s View Post
Circles L & R? If it steers 20 Degrees left and 10 right, itll do the same
This is the first thing I would check for sure. I make sure my circles are the same at the beginning of every race day. Also, depending on what carpet your running on, glue is normally the second thing I would suggest checking. After that, camber, king pins (bent) or the lack of free movement in the front end could cause this as well. Take the front springs off and make sure the kingpin drops through with no bind under its own weight. Other than that, make sure the car goes on a tweak station before every run.
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Last edited by WIITA; 02-18-2020 at 05:08 AM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:51 PM
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Cheers for the pointers.
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Old 02-18-2020, 03:29 PM
  #2748  
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
This is the first thing I would check for sure. I make sure my circles are the same at the beginning of every race day. Also, depending on what carpet your running on, glue is normally the second thing I would suggest checking. After that, camber, king pins (bent) or the lack of free movement in the front end could cause this as well. Take the front springs off and make sure the kingpin drops through with no bind under its own weight. Other than that, make sure the car goes on a tweak station before every run.
h
I had someone help me with my 1/12. They said circles aren't necessary after he adjusted the steering angles on both sides to 18 degrees on both left and right..
The droop thing is what confuses me.
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Old 02-19-2020, 06:06 AM
  #2749  
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Originally Posted by CoryRC View Post
h
I had someone help me with my 1/12. They said circles aren't necessary after he adjusted the steering angles on both sides to 18 degrees on both left and right..
The droop thing is what confuses me.
Two ways to do circles, on the track against a board or on a setup station. Both achieve the same thing IMO. Most new drivers donít have a setup station, so doing a half circle each way off the same board and marking that spot will work just as well.

I measure front droop with the amount of sag on the front end at static ride height. Obviously, both should be the same on each side. I tend to run just enough to see that they are both equal on each side. Maybe 1/2mm on each side.

I always run the rear pod level or just a little lower in the front (.2mm). From that measurement in the front of pod, pull up on the top of the shock mount and measure again. Thatís your rear droop setting.

hope this makes sense😂

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Old 02-19-2020, 09:45 AM
  #2750  
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I had tweak in my car for almost 2 months and it wasnt until this weekend i realized it was a collapsed spring. I swapped it out and voila the car was fixed. I went thru droop, a busted rear carbon plate (which i didnt realize was busted) and installed that back square, put it on a statiom, which im trying to get away from and it was still screwed up. Wasnt until i checked the front springs was my problem fixed. After that i swapped out both front and sides and car was good.

i tend to just leave my springs in for a long time. Ill clean the front end and reinstall the old springs but now i know to swap them out more frequently
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Old 02-19-2020, 09:50 AM
  #2751  
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Originally Posted by phatboislim View Post
I had tweak in my car for almost 2 months and it wasnt until this weekend i realized it was a collapsed spring. I swapped it out and voila the car was fixed. I went thru droop, a busted rear carbon plate (which i didnt realize was busted) and installed that back square, put it on a statiom, which im trying to get away from and it was still screwed up. Wasnt until i checked the front springs was my problem fixed. After that i swapped out both front and sides and car was good.

i tend to just leave my springs in for a long time. Ill clean the front end and reinstall the old springs but now i know to swap them out more frequently
Any time you take them off the car you should measure them and make sure things are still at least fairly consistent. It's good advice for everyone.
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Old 02-19-2020, 10:05 AM
  #2752  
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
Any time you take them off the car you should measure them and make sure things are still at least fairly consistent. It's good advice for everyone.
yea now I know lol. If you ask vafactor i have some pretty pathetic practices when it comes to 12th scale. Im working on getting rid of them
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Old 02-20-2020, 12:03 PM
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Ok so I had a large race this past weekend and completely blew it! OMG so after over viewing my set-up I have some questions. So by rasing the tubes on the outside by 4mm and putting 10k in the tubes what have a caused the car to do with .45 side springs and black center spring with 35 wt losi shock oil. Also glue on the front tires can you all show me how you are cluing your tires...off to the track at this point cause Im pissed how bad I f'ed up...
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by racer034life View Post
Ok so I had a large race this past weekend and completely blew it! OMG so after over viewing my set-up I have some questions. So by rasing the tubes on the outside by 4mm and putting 10k in the tubes what have a caused the car to do with .45 side springs and black center spring with 35 wt losi shock oil. Also glue on the front tires can you all show me how you are cluing your tires...off to the track at this point cause Im pissed how bad I f'ed up...
Itís likely that your carís poor handling was mostly a problem with tires, usually the fronts. Hereís my take: Raising the outer end of the tubes is such a subtle adjustment that only the most sensitive drivers can even feel any difference from doing so. 10K is a little light in the tubes but not that far off. Suggest sticking with either 15 or 20K. 35 in the shock is also close. I always stick with the kit oil, which I think is 30. And I also wonder why guys vary from the kit side springs (which I think are 50s) and especially the kit red shock spring, which most of the team guys run almost all the time. It puzzles me why do so many guys try to fix what ainít broke. The pure kit setup works so well for most conditions that, unless you really know what you are looking for and how to get it, itís probably advisable to run the CRC car just about box stock. And now to the tires.... for black carpet when the grip is up, itís a must to CA the outer front sidewalls and also to run the tires fairly small. By small I mean not more than 40.5mm up front. 41mm max. What I do is pre-true the tires to about 1/2mm larger than my desired size, ease the edges SLIGHTLY, apply the CA all the way up on the outer sidewalls, let it air dry, spin the tires on the truer and LIGHTLY sand the CAd surface just enough to smooth out the rough pebbly surface, apply a 2nd light coat of CA, let it air dry again, and then skim the tires to my desired race size. This admittedly cumbersome 2 step gluing process works a treat as it yields very consistent front tires that stay good thru many runs. And the last tip if you are having trouble......sauce just the inner 1/2 max of the fronts right before you run and DO NOT let the sauce sit on the front tires for any length of time. Wipe it off right away and then go thru tech and right out to the track. Hope these recommendations help.
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Old 02-20-2020, 02:59 PM
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I disagree with the idea that only the red spring should be used. On a tight track, jumping up to a green allows the rear end to rotate just a little quicker. Also, for any new CRC drivers, the manual for the Gen-Xi has a helpful tuning guide in the back that clearly explains what most setup changes do. Why CRC didnít put this in the CK25ís (crappy) printer paper manuals is beyond me.
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:47 AM
  #2756  
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Hey guys. I had a few people ask about my snowbirds setup.

Here she is:

Front:

.50 .25mm droop

3.2mm RH

5* blocks with 2 shims forward

39.7mm tire w/ edges glued all the way up.

-.5 camber

1* toe out

166 front width



Rear:

.50 springs just touching and tweaked dead.

Asc gold center spring

Kit oil

1.5mm pod droop

50k in one tube

Extended top plate with standard shock

172mm rear

41mm tire (canam) normally run 40mm

Battery back

Black art 09 body form CRC

lmk if I forgot something
I can't find the 50Ktube lube, crc only makes 30,000, 20,000, 10,000, and 5,000.

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Old 02-22-2020, 10:31 AM
  #2757  
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Choose your weight from the drop down menu

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...p453217?v=4382
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Old 03-03-2020, 04:25 PM
  #2758  
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Any one have a chart how CRC encore springs compare in rate to Associated VCS springs.

I have a zillion 1/12 small bore springs really don't want to buy another set.

Thanks
Jamie
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:42 AM
  #2759  
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Originally Posted by J.Gonzalez View Post
Any one have a chart how CRC encore springs compare in rate to Associated VCS springs.

I have a zillion 1/12 small bore springs really don't want to buy another set.

Thanks
Jamie
Its not up to date but this old chart from Petit RC may be useful:

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/re...turer-petit-rc
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Old 07-04-2020, 01:27 PM
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I am looking for an Xi manual. If anyone has one they can email me copy of I would gladly pay for your time.

I need the part numbers in it to get parts ordered for my car Monday. Have a trophy race next Friday and my rear lower pod plate is tweaked and canít get it flat again.



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