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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 04-07-2018, 06:28 AM
  #2536  
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Part # 9796 on the studs. 31305 on the rod ends.

Pic shows how far you gotta sand, and what a stock end look likes. Reminder, drill the plastic side of the tube out for 4-40. Don't go too far. Questions, feel free to ask.
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Old 04-07-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
What spacer are you using and does that spacer actually get both drive hubs the exact distance apart?
I took the 2mm shim for the axle and put it there and I have I think 2 .020 shims on both sides of the axle at the bearings and the new 2 screw hubs on both sides. it was 171.5mm wide with CRC High Roller 38 mm wheels

4720 - Axle Spacer-Xti-2 + 5mm

https://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?...prodID=7719452

3331 - Double clamp 1/12 left hub

https://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?...prodID=7719743

Last edited by nashrcracer; 04-07-2018 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 04-09-2018, 09:30 AM
  #2538  
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Originally Posted by Race19s View Post
Part # 9796 on the studs. 31305 on the rod ends.

Pic shows how far you gotta sand, and what a stock end look likes. Reminder, drill the plastic side of the tube out for 4-40. Don't go too far. Questions, feel free to ask.
Where can i find those part numbers? Are those CRC parts? This also seems to be the main I have with I with the CRC cars. If I could make this part solid they would be about perfect.
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Old 04-09-2018, 03:44 PM
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On the ball cups you can also use the ends from a encore shock as they can be threaded 2-56 and will fit on a 4-40 threaded ball stud.
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Lence View Post
Where can i find those part numbers? Are those CRC parts? This also seems to be the main I have with I with the CRC cars. If I could make this part solid they would be about perfect.
Associated=AE.
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:27 AM
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If you run battery back, and are involved in a pretty good wreck, the tubes can pop off. The reason they pop off has nothing to do with the types of ball cups, it has to do with the fact that the tubes can hit the battery. The rear pod can compress the shock far enough for the tubes to actually make contact with the battery and therefore pop it off.

Here are some super simple ways to fix it.

1. Run battery forward

2. Use the #1407 balls on the tweak plate to raise the outside of the tubes (this is what I do on my personal cars). Now the tube can not hit the battery

3. Put a bump stop on the shock. There has been a lot of testing of bump stops on the shock shaft to help with mod 12th scales from bottoming out and by limiting just the very end of the shock travel, the tubes can not hit the battery.

This problem is very easy to fix, if you have it.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
If you run battery back, and are involved in a pretty good wreck, the tubes can pop off. The reason they pop off has nothing to do with the types of ball cups, it has to do with the fact that the tubes can hit the battery. The rear pod can compress the shock far enough for the tubes to actually make contact with the battery and therefore pop it off.

Here are some super simple ways to fix it.

1. Run battery forward

2. Use the #1407 balls on the tweak plate to raise the outside of the tubes (this is what I do on my personal cars). Now the tube can not hit the battery

3. Put a bump stop on the shock. There has been a lot of testing of bump stops on the shock shaft to help with mod 12th scales from bottoming out and by limiting just the very end of the shock travel, the tubes can not hit the battery.

This problem is very easy to fix, if you have it.
Wow!! totally makes sense. In fact I would add that my battery (especially a slightly puffed pack) will indeed shift forward past the stops. I do use the rear mounting position. I was thinking I would just bag the o-ring to secure it and tape it in from now on. But if its the tubes that are hitting the battery that wont fix the problem. Sounds like the #1407 higher mounts would be the trick.
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:17 PM
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Does the ZEN Racing 1/12 Delrin Pivot Block work on the CRC Platform? In other words, is the spacing of the pivot block holes on a CRC chassis equivalent to the spacing for an AE chassis?
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Old 05-30-2018, 01:03 PM
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The screw spacing on an AE rear pivot ball holder does not match up with CRCís screw spacing.
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:49 AM
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Does anyone know what weight oil comes in the kits? Is it 30?
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
Does anyone know what weight oil comes in the kits? Is it 30?
I think it is 30 weight. I really appreciate that little needle-tip bottle they give you, yeah you have to keep it upright or it leaks but its still a nice piece.
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I think it is 30 weight. I really appreciate that little needle-tip bottle they give you, yeah you have to keep it upright or it leaks but its still a nice piece.
Oh THAT's where it came from! Thanks DR, I couldn't for the life of me remember where that needle tip bottle came from or what was in it. Getting old...




Kit also comes with 5k and 30k weight lube for the tubes. At least mine did.




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Old 06-25-2018, 01:23 PM
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When using the carbon Z-flex chassis will we have to add weight or is that solid chassis almost heavy enough as it is?

I'm still procrastinating about actually assembling mine, but that chassis is no joke, about a rigid as it gets. Then again, it is 2.5mm+ thick, it feels like something for an old foam touring car, like my Type R that is 2.75mm thick.
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Old 06-25-2018, 01:51 PM
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New to me 1/12. Should be a learning experience
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Old 06-25-2018, 01:54 PM
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Well, Iím now the owner of a 1/12.
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