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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 04-03-2018, 09:40 AM
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Okay, do I have to make my own spool or will CRC be releasing one in the next few days before the Mile High? I can make my own, but I figured I would ask first.
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:04 AM
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there's 2 people that make them now and i think xray is making a spool...i believe one of the companies making them is high velocity rc on facebook, i cant remember the other company
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim View Post
there's 2 people that make them now and i think xray is making a spool...i believe one of the companies making them is high velocity rc on facebook, i cant remember the other company
Xrays facebook post wasnt about a spool...

High Velocity RC is what I use. Chris Simpson is the contact.
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Old 04-05-2018, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Okay, do I have to make my own spool or will CRC be releasing one in the next few days before the Mile High? I can make my own, but I figured I would ask first.
made my own

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Old 04-05-2018, 12:53 PM
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I made a spool also. It drove OK (actually a little better than I expected) and it did decent lap times....about the same as my normal diff-equipped setup. But the motor got nearly 30 degrees hotter with the spool while running the exact same rollout as with the diff. Canít see how working the motor that much harder can be a good thing.
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Old 04-05-2018, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
I made a spool also. It drove OK (actually a little better than I expected) and it did decent lap times....about the same as my normal diff-equipped setup. But the motor got nearly 30 degrees hotter with the spool while running the exact same rollout as with the diff. Canít see how working the motor that much harder can be a good thing.
We do see slightly higher motor temps with the spool but that doesn't stop the overall run from being faster which is what I care most about.

You may not be able to see it but it's hard to argue with facts.

The spool becomes even better as the cars get faster and faster. I think it's least important in 17.5 and then more important in 13.5 moving on to even more important in mod.
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Old 04-05-2018, 02:47 PM
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CK25 chassis, I'm having trouble with the ball ends popping off the damper tubes, specifically when I hit something. I could try avoiding things but knowing that isn't realistic (hehe) for me what can I do to keep that popping off thing from happening?
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
CK25 chassis, I'm having trouble with the ball ends popping off the damper tubes, specifically when I hit something. I could try avoiding things but knowing that isn't realistic (hehe) for me what can I do to keep that popping off thing from happening?
Off of the tube itself or off of the ball stud? If it's off the tube and stripping the threads just re-assemble with some glue and see if that helps.

If its coming off the ball stud, I would replace the ball end as they may have been stretched out by a previous hit.
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:07 PM
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Yes off the ball ends. Seems to me I saw a more permanent ball end or mod or something. Might have been a different brand.
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Old 04-06-2018, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Yes off the ball ends. Seems to me I saw a more permanent ball end or mod or something. Might have been a different brand.
I'm not sure why but CRC uses a 2-56 ball stud under the pod plate and a 4-40 stud on the other end of the tubes. I took the bigger stud and ballcup and put them under the pod plate. If I remember correctly I used the steering cups for that ballstud. The doenfall to this is that you have to drill the hole bigger to accept the bigger allen screw. Hope this makes sense.

Ken
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Old 04-06-2018, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nashrcracer View Post
made my own

What spacer are you using and does that spacer actually get both drive hubs the exact distance apart?
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE View Post
I'm not sure why but CRC uses a 2-56 ball stud under the pod plate and a 4-40 stud on the other end of the tubes. I took the bigger stud and ballcup and put them under the pod plate. If I remember correctly I used the steering cups for that ballstud. The doenfall to this is that you have to drill the hole bigger to accept the bigger allen screw. Hope this makes sense.

Ken
Ya that makes sense. Would installing a set of the 4-40 #13615 Red LP Pivot balls and #32694 ball ends on the inside or delrin part of the damper work? It looks like both the aluminum tube and delrin plunger both have a ball cup threaded on. The ones on the outside of mine are not closed in cups, they are open on the top and are quite difficult to remove. Its easier to unscrew the aluminum ball than pop the outside tube ends off. They are hex shaped where the set screw goes in but maybe that would work on the plunger end.

Or is there something better to make it more bomb proof.
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Old 04-06-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Ya that makes sense. Would installing a set of the 4-40 #13615 Red LP Pivot balls and #32694 ball ends on the inside or delrin part of the damper work? It looks like both the aluminum tube and delrin plunger both have a ball cup threaded on. The ones on the outside of mine are not closed in cups, they are open on the top and are quite difficult to remove. Its easier to unscrew the aluminum ball than pop the outside tube ends off. They are hex shaped where the set screw goes in but maybe that would work on the plunger end.

Or is there something better to make it more bomb proof.
I dont have the part #'s in front of me, but I personally made the switch to AE Gold studs, and AE open ball cups. They need to be modded slightly to fit inside the dampner tube. First drill the plastic tube end to accompany a 4-40 tweak screw. Thread the tweak screw into the AE cup, leave enough thread out to match the amount drilled out of the side tube. This is the fun part. Chuck the exposed threads into a drill. Have a small sand disc on a dremel. Spin the cup, and sand it round. Spin both tools at the same time. Test fit the end, until it fits inside the metal tube. Then use CA on the screw so it dont fall out. Little fooling around, but I have yet to pop one off. And They are butter smooth. Can pic you later if this sounds worth it to you.
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Race19s View Post
I dont have the part #'s in front of me, but I personally made the switch to AE Gold studs, and AE open ball cups. They need to be modded slightly to fit inside the dampner tube. First drill the plastic tube end to accompany a 4-40 tweak screw. Thread the tweak screw into the AE cup, leave enough thread out to match the amount drilled out of the side tube. This is the fun part. Chuck the exposed threads into a drill. Have a small sand disc on a dremel. Spin the cup, and sand it round. Spin both tools at the same time. Test fit the end, until it fits inside the metal tube. Then use CA on the screw so it dont fall out. Little fooling around, but I have yet to pop one off. And They are butter smooth. Can pic you later if this sounds worth it to you.
I'm pretty handy so maybe a pic would be good. I never had this problem with the WC version and as far as I can tell the plungers are the same. Two races in a row there was a minor crash and I finished the race with no side dampers. Luckily they stayed inside the car just disconnected. Weird thing is it didn't drive all that different.
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Old 04-07-2018, 06:11 AM
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I've never had luck with those. All the way back to the XTI car. Pics to follow...
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