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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 11-07-2017, 10:17 AM
  #2356  
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
so I'm looking into getting a new servo before trying the old one in the new car. I am comparing the Savox SH-1350, SH-1257MG, and Futaba S9650. The 1257 has the best specs. The Futaba is the most expensive. Based on the recommendations here I'm leaning towards the S9650. For the servo saver I could do what you suggest and drill the holes but that didnt go so well last time I tried it and I ended up getting a new one and one of these CRC4088 Braces.. I'd rather stay with pre-drilled and use this brace again. With that said I guess I should get the KIM114? I think thats what I already have though on the old Savox.
The absolute best servo saver there is, is made by xray. You do have to trim a little plastic off the bottom though, so it dont hang below the deck.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xs...372503/p219462
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Old 11-07-2017, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Anyone know if and where the case for the mini sanwa can be purchased? My cousin tore both ears off the bottom of my spare in a crash.
Desoto Racing has the case for the SRG-HR but I don't know if they have it for the 94761. The SRG-HR is a superior servo and worth the extra money.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Yes mine is good. It has a tiny bit of play side to side and I also use 2 ride height gauges when setting the rear ride height. It makes it much easier to get set equal left to right. There doesnt seem to be a bind in the bearings when free spinning the axle without a pinion on. I have always felt like the motor drives one wheel harder than the other on all solid axle diffs. Judged by the non scientific holding one wheel at a time and see how the other spins under power.
Just make sure that it is actual axle play and not bearing play. And your right...technically speaking there is always going to be drag on one side of the diff due to the bearings so one wheel will essentially always be driven a little harder than the other even on the best setup car. But with really good bearings that can be kept to such a minimum that it won't translate into a handling imbalance. That is just the nature of pan cars. If we could put the diff between the axle bearings it would balance out better.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:25 PM
  #2359  
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Default Pro strut alum mounts

Does CRC still make these? I can't seem to find them on their site.
Attached Thumbnails Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!-52244.jpg  
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by durtbag View Post
Does CRC still make these? I can't seem to find them on their site.
This is what I could find on their site...

https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7718986

Jon
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:30 PM
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Default Question about Zero Flex Chassis

So I was looking into the new CK25 and am wondering if the Zero Flex chassis is worth it or not? What is the reason someone would go to that instead of the stock chassis?

We have two tracks that run on the new CRC black carpet. One is 36 x 100 and the other is 48 x 80. I run 13.5 blinky stock with the purple stripe tires which work well for both tracks so far..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Jon
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
This is what I could find on their site...

https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7718986

Jon
Yes, I see. But would be looking for 5* those show as zero. Kind of confusing, as there no listings for any other degreeís
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
So I was looking into the new CK25 and am wondering if the Zero Flex chassis is worth it or not? What is the reason someone would go to that instead of the stock chassis?

We have two tracks that run on the new CRC black carpet. One is 36 x 100 and the other is 48 x 80. I run 13.5 blinky stock with the purple stripe tires which work well for both tracks so far..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Jon
I have run the stock chassis on the new black, spec tires & 13.5 without any problem. Soft side springs & a harder shock spring, 10k damper, 2mm roll spacer were the only changes I made. Glued fronts of course. I didnít have any traction roll. Small tires.
Try that first. Z-flex may be overkill for blinky.
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Old 11-09-2017, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by durtbag View Post
Yes, I see. But would be looking for 5* those show as zero. Kind of confusing, as there no listings for any other degreeís
The product 3360 pic at Amain shows just the 0 degree mounts. The pic on the CRC site shows all 3 but the description only says the 0 degree. I guess they dont make the 5 and 10 anymore.
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Old 11-09-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Juniorabca View Post
So I was looking into the new CK25 and am wondering if the Zero Flex chassis is worth it or not? What is the reason someone would go to that instead of the stock chassis?

We have two tracks that run on the new CRC black carpet. One is 36 x 100 and the other is 48 x 80. I run 13.5 blinky stock with the purple stripe tires which work well for both tracks so far..

Any advice would be appreciated..

Jon
Z-Flex is stiffer carbon than stock, and the goal is a more consistent drive. With multiple carpet options out there, the stock piece might be a touch better on low-mid and the Zflex might be a touch better on mid-high bite. But by no means will one not work on the other, grip wise. Its just going to make it more easier to drive. Hope that helps
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:45 AM
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Started assembling the CK25 last night and have a question on the pod. When mounted to the chassis in the manner described in the instructions it very slightly raises the pivot point where the ball mounts to the rear carbon plate. I mean slightly like not visible with the eye. This causes the rear plate to rock slightly side to side when assembly is set on the glass. It rocks side to side and a visual check appears the pod and chassis are close. Is it normal that it would be slightly raised? All the parts center pivot mount are snug to the chassis plate and not weird. Is the ball different from side to side? if one lip was bigger the instructions didnt call it out and I havent tried it reversed yet, I was just wondering. I could put a very thin shim under the ball on top of the bottom plate to clear it up but it is very slight.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:29 AM
  #2367  
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Questions?? 3rd chassis option

Just noticed a 3rd Chassis option listed in the CK25 Manual. Not listed on the CRC Website. Hmmm, Japan Spec perhaps? Tailored for 2s-21.5?
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:21 PM
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I would stay away from the pretty alum. blocks as they will bend on inpack.
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:40 PM
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Started assembling the CK25 last night and have a question on the pod. When mounted to the chassis in the manner described in the instructions it very slightly raises the pivot point where the ball mounts to the rear carbon plate. I mean slightly like not visible with the eye. This causes the rear plate to rock slightly side to side when assembly is set on the glass. It rocks side to side and a visual check appears the pod and chassis are close. Is it normal that it would be slightly raised? All the parts center pivot mount are snug to the chassis plate and not weird. Is the ball different from side to side? if one lip was bigger the instructions didnt call it out and I havent tried it reversed yet, I was just wondering. I could put a very thin shim under the ball on top of the bottom plate to clear it up but it is very slight.

Make sure all your screws on the bottom or flush with the carbon. I had an issue with the stock chassis holes not being countersunk deep enough.
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