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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 11-01-2017, 01:00 PM
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"Run CRC" shirts are now available!

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Old 11-01-2017, 03:43 PM
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Is there a download for the new CK25 manual? I'd like to look it over before buying the CK25. I have a Xti-WC that I'm giving up on and thought I might buy the new one to see if I can get it to work better than the WC and already have a bunch of spares for the WC.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:53 PM
  #2313  
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Is there a download for the new CK25 manual? I'd like to look it over before buying the CK25. I have a Xti-WC that I'm giving up on and thought I might buy the new one to see if I can get it to work better than the WC and already have a bunch of spares for the WC.
Here ya go.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/forum/file...K25_Manual.pdf
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Is there a download for the new CK25 manual? I'd like to look it over before buying the CK25. I have a Xti-WC that I'm giving up on and thought I might buy the new one to see if I can get it to work better than the WC and already have a bunch of spares for the WC.
I see the post above this one has the link to the manual. This manual is almost identical to the WC manual, so I don't know if you will see enough in it to determine if the CK25 is the right car for you.

I can tell you that there are major changes to the rear motor pod. It shortens the wheel base a little and brings the motor closer to the pivot point. This makes a big difference in rear traction of the vehicle, all for the good.

I also want to suggest to pay a lot of attention to the center shock, the angle it is mounted on the chassis and spring you use. Other than that, I would say the CK25 is a wonderful car especially for the price. Most of the parts you have, without looking at your inventory, do cross over from the WC. So, purchasing the CK225 would be the best financial approach for you to attack the 1/12 scale racing classes.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:34 PM
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Thumbs up Compatibility of the WC car and the 25CK car.

Are there a lot of parts that the older WC car share with the new 25 CK car. If so, which parts are shared. I think the rear pod and chassis are different so maybe the rear axel and diff, front end, shocks and springs? I have an older version and I would consider getting the 25 CK version if my spare parts very still usable.
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Toothless9 View Post
Are there a lot of parts that the older WC car share with the new 25 CK car. If so, which parts are shared. I think the rear pod and chassis are different so maybe the rear axel and diff, front end, shocks and springs? I have an older version and I would consider getting the 25 CK version if my spare parts very still usable.
Oops, didnít see Davidís post before mine. I guess it would be a good pick up financially as well.
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Old 11-02-2017, 07:36 AM
  #2317  
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The rear pod is different between the two cars, but it appears the rest of the geometry is very close or even the same. I believe they sell the new pod already as an upgrade to the xti. The main chassis geometry like front end to pivot, front end width, link location are all the same between the two cars. For me the upgrade was all about reducing the front overhang and getting rid of the weird U shaped part for the front end mounting. The new servo mount is nicer as well.
I just cut a ck25 style chassis so I could update my xti to the new shorter front overhang and servo mount. If it runs well, I may offer it as an update or you could probably just buy the ck25 main chassis from Crc and bolt it up. From what I can see everything will transfer over by just replacing the main chassis.

Last edited by slotracer577; 11-02-2017 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:07 AM
  #2318  
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Thanks so much for the the replies and the manual download. After several attempts to get my Xti-WC to be "driveable" I am giving up on it. At times I can get the car to where I can get a pretty good lap with major concentration and restraint but due to the consistent poor handling and odd ball behavior I have concluded there must be something inherently wrong with the car and has been since it was manufactured. I have posted all the problems, followed all the advice of both forum member suggestions as well as racers at the track and still cannot fully rid the car of the gremlins it has. I considered getting out of 1/12 all together but I have so much invested into tires, truer, bodies, etc. and I still enjoy this class of racing. I believe my skills are within the top 3 of our club but my pace is a second a lap off the pace. Its not normal for me to blame the car but in this case I truly believe it is the problem.

I considered switching brands to Xray or Associated but it would appear that every brand has its problems and I hate starting over to get all the tuning and option parts. So with that in mind the lowest cost option is to get the CK25 so that some of the parts from the WC will transfer over as spares when needed and I can use my inventory of new parts for it should I break something.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:10 AM
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What servo saver is that on the stock pics of the car? The manual says get a Kimbrough or Tamiya but doesn't say which part number.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
What servo saver is that on the stock pics of the car? The manual says get a Kimbrough or Tamiya but doesn't say which part number.
KIM 113 is what is shown, now keep in mind that fits 23 spline servos.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
What servo saver is that on the stock pics of the car? The manual says get a Kimbrough or Tamiya but doesn't say which part number.
It appears to be a Tamiya high torque- https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...hoC_sYQAvD_BwE
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:27 PM
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[QUOTE=RussF;15068039]Thanks so much for the the replies and the manual download. After several attempts to get my Xti-WC to be "driveable" I am giving up on it. At times I can get the car to where I can get a pretty good lap with major concentration and restraint but due to the consistent poor handling and odd ball behavior I have concluded there must be something inherently wrong with the car and has been since it was manufactured. I have posted all the problems, followed all the advice of both forum member suggestions as well as racers at the track and still cannot fully rid the car of the gremlins it has. I considered getting out of 1/12 all together but I have so much invested into tires, truer, bodies, etc. and I still enjoy this class of racing. I believe my skills are within the top 3 of our club but my pace is a second a lap off the pace. Its not normal for me to blame the car but in this case I truly believe it is the problem.

I considered switching brands to Xray or Associated but it would appear that every brand has its problems and I hate starting over to get all the tuning and option parts. So with that in mind the lowest cost option is to get the CK25 so that some of the parts from the WC will transfer over as spares when needed and I can use my inventory of new parts for it should I break something.[/QUOTE
Perhaps its a dumb question, but have you let one or two of the best drivers at your local track try driving your "difficult" car and/or have you tried driving one of theirs? I ask because that is one quick way to identify or eliminate the possibility that maybe you've been fighting a radio gear related problem rather than a chassis problem. Its super strange that your worlds car has such a stubborn and pesky gremlin that has eluded discovery.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
Perhaps its a dumb question, but have you let one or two of the best drivers at your local track try driving your "difficult" car and/or have you tried driving one of theirs? I ask because that is one quick way to identify or eliminate the possibility that maybe you've been fighting a radio gear related problem rather than a chassis problem. Its super strange that your worlds car has such a stubborn and pesky gremlin that has eluded discovery.
Not a dumb question at all. And the answer is yes and no. I've not had anybody else offer to drive the car. I have tried other peoples cars though and found them to not have the same on power problems mine had. I had considered that the problem could be radio related by maybe mixing the channels. For instance when applying forward throttle it was slightly turning the steering to the left. And then since I've trimmed it as even as I can for straight steering it goes to the right off power. I suppose its still a possibility as the servo and the receiver are still the same I started with. The ESC and motor have been replaced and the problem remained. I thought maybe the current draw of the motor was causing the steering to lose holding power since the original ESC was a 2S esc (Hobbywing $50 Justock). But after trying a 1S esc the problem was just the same. I have not tried a new servo yet and will be installing the original Savox SH-1250MG into the new CK25 chassis. I guess if the problem is still there I could narrow it down to the receiver or servo though. But probably wont because if the new car does the same thing I will be beyond frustrated and will be building a nice fire out of all the 1/12 scale stuff I have......j/k but tempting.

Just for the record I believe the problem is chassis related because since it was new I have never been able to get the ride height nor the caster exactly the same from side to side even with new parts. Those things are probably unrelated to the on power problem but don't inspire confidence in the chassis.

Clearly I'm no set up expert but no matter what the setup is, stiff, soft, loose, tight, etc. etc. the problem will not go away.

I really like racing 1/12 and if the new chassis is the solution then dropping another $200 on it is worth it. If not then.... flames it is!!
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Not a dumb question at all. And the answer is yes and no. I've not had anybody else offer to drive the car. I have tried other peoples cars though and found them to not have the same on power problems mine had. I had considered that the problem could be radio related by maybe mixing the channels. For instance when applying forward throttle it was slightly turning the steering to the left. And then since I've trimmed it as even as I can for straight steering it goes to the right off power. I suppose its still a possibility as the servo and the receiver are still the same I started with. The ESC and motor have been replaced and the problem remained. I thought maybe the current draw of the motor was causing the steering to lose holding power since the original ESC was a 2S esc (Hobbywing $50 Justock). But after trying a 1S esc the problem was just the same. I have not tried a new servo yet and will be installing the original Savox SH-1250MG into the new CK25 chassis. I guess if the problem is still there I could narrow it down to the receiver or servo though. But probably wont because if the new car does the same thing I will be beyond frustrated and will be building a nice fire out of all the 1/12 scale stuff I have......j/k but tempting.

Just for the record I believe the problem is chassis related because since it was new I have never been able to get the ride height nor the caster exactly the same from side to side even with new parts. Those things are probably unrelated to the on power problem but don't inspire confidence in the chassis.

Clearly I'm no set up expert but no matter what the setup is, stiff, soft, loose, tight, etc. etc. the problem will not go away.

I really like racing 1/12 and if the new chassis is the solution then dropping another $200 on it is worth it. If not then.... flames it is!!
Well, does the servo move when you pull the trigger or something? This is by miles the weirdest persistent problem I have seen on RCTech.
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Well, does the servo move when you pull the trigger or something? This is by miles the weirdest persistent problem I have seen on RCTech.
Good idea but No, in fact since I started this quest for a fix a while back it was highly suggested I center my servo on the chassis. I spent significant time and effort doing just that with no better results. At least its centered now. It has never moved and has actually always been secured with the mount and shoo goo since day one.
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