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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 09-20-2017, 03:05 AM
  #2266  
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Thanks for the input guys.

Yes when I say same I mean mechanical travel. the steering knuckles / wheels will turn the same amount. In thinking about an uncentered servo the only negative thing I could come up with is negative ackerman assuming everything physically moved correctly. I don't have a 1/12 set up station to check the actual degree's but a measurement of the gap at full lock is set so the travel is equal. I would usually check the turn radius on the track by eyballing it in the lane under very low/slow power. I haven't tried the pushing the car myself or marking the exact spot method yet but might try it next time at the track to make sure I have exactly the same travel.


I have been reading alot about expo and it seems that most use a negative setting for 1/12 scale. I have used the dual rate to limit travel but cant recall ever using expo. I rebuilt all the car and the rear pivot seems really good, no pop or bind and really smooth. The front end is bind free and both arms move very freely. I do set my droop in front at about .25 - .5mm. I dont have a tweak station and must confess that I dont check tweak every time off the track. In fact if the car was running ok I just keep it as is and sauce and charge for the next run. I will start paying closer attention to the tweak between runs. Especially if I have made any contact with a board or other car.

Overall the same problem has always been there from the very first build of the kit. While I have checked and re-checked everything for tweak and made the car better I have never been able to completely get rid of the pushing left and pulling right issue, just lower it. So assuming everything is square the only thing that has never changed is my off center servo horn. I will just have to come up with a way to mount it centered and try it to eliminate it as a possibility.
Couple other things to check. Is your rear axle centered perfectly? Also, how is the balance on your main chassis?
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:27 AM
  #2267  
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
Couple other things to check. Is your rear axle centered perfectly? Also, how is the balance on your main chassis?
Yes I think so. I measured from the rear hole in the bottom pod plate to the outside of each wheel mounting spot where the wheels would mount and the measurements are the same. I haven't re-checked the balance on the main chassis since it was built over a year ago and nothing has changed mounting wise, I seem to recall it was good then but I will check it again. I was going to check the pod alone but decided I really didn't want to know since its unlikely I will do anything to correct it if its off. I don't want stick on weights attached to it and don't want to shim the motor. I've read a few things about balance and some say to check with the pod attached and some say without. Both seem to have merit as in that if each separate part is balanced then the whole must be. And if the car is fully assembled and has equal weight left to right then it must also be balanced.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:16 PM
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working on bag 4, I will be using the inner tweak spring mount but I'm wondering what the holes are for in the rear pod plate where tip is pointing?

also, two holes on the rear of the bottom pod plate? didn't read anything in the manual unless I missed it.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jetnjme View Post


working on bag 4, I will be using the inner tweak spring mount but I'm wondering what the holes are for in the rear pod plate where tip is pointing?

also, two holes on the rear of the bottom pod plate? didn't read anything in the manual unless I missed it.
Those holes under the spring mount are there because the pod plate is the same as that used in the Xti Inline car, which moved the side links inboard. They will not cause any issue.

The holes on the bottom at the back are for the rear diffuser option, which nobody uses.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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Just ordered a CK25 this morning. Looking forward to getting back into 12th scale after taking several years off. Looking for advice on a servo, currently looking at the Xpert MI-3301-HV. I have not used Xpert, so I'm curious how they are. Thoughts?
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:32 PM
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Quick question on tie rod angle. I always try to have my tie rods flat but I have always noticed on the crc it’s not easy to do. I try to shim the outside up as much on the knuckle. But even then it’s not flat. I found the small sanwa with small kimbrough saver to be the closest but I prefer to run the Xray saver as I feel it’s a better saver. Is this something most don’t worry about and should I just get it as close as I can and move on. Any help would be great.
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Old 09-22-2017, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by chad508 View Post
Quick question on tie rod angle. I always try to have my tie rods flat but I have always noticed on the crc itís not easy to do. I try to shim the outside up as much on the knuckle. But even then itís not flat. I found the small sanwa with small kimbrough saver to be the closest but I prefer to run the Xray saver as I feel itís a better saver. Is this something most donít worry about and should I just get it as close as I can and move on. Any help would be great.
Mine are flat. I used the CRC tall red female ball studs on the steering blocks and then ground some off the outer tierod end ballcups in order to make them clear the inner edge of the wheels at full lock.
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chad508 View Post
Quick question on tie rod angle. I always try to have my tie rods flat but I have always noticed on the crc itís not easy to do. I try to shim the outside up as much on the knuckle. But even then itís not flat. I found the small sanwa with small kimbrough saver to be the closest but I prefer to run the Xray saver as I feel itís a better saver. Is this something most donít worry about and should I just get it as close as I can and move on. Any help would be great.
If you use the middle holes on the xray saver, and space up the ball studs on the spindle, just to the point where the ball cup is almost touching the inner wheel, itll be as near flat as possible. I'll snap a pic later and attach it on here.
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:53 AM
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Thanks for the info. I have tried all the above but it only seems to work with the small airtronics servo. Personally I feel there are better servos that I would like to run. I believe I have found a solution to my issue and plan to test and see how it works.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:59 PM
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anyone know the weight of https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/crc3703.htm? pack is 24mm avg shorter than other 1S
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
anyone know the weight of https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/crc3703.htm? pack is 24mm avg shorter than other 1S
If I remember correctly I think they weighed about 125g, some 30g less than a standard pack.

I would recommend buying a normal pack.
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:32 AM
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forgot to order my 72 spur with my kit and want to keep everything in the family, now I'm wondering about the diff balls...

3/32 or 2.5mm both fit CRC spurs but which is preferred?

All my other stuff is 1/8
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jetnjme View Post
forgot to order my 72 spur with my kit and want to keep everything in the family, now I'm wondering about the diff balls...

3/32 or 2.5mm both fit CRC spurs but which is preferred?

All my other stuff is 1/8
the 2.5mm fit the spur gears better it seems like.
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:38 PM
  #2279  
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uploaded some images of the CK25 manual if anyone needs to reference part numbers

CK25 manual
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:44 PM
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We should start a new thread for the new car. Anyone know what's involved to create it so it has a wiki section with links etc?
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