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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 07-07-2017, 05:51 AM
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Grabbing one of these for the winter, where can i find a good 13.5 set-up to start with and what servos are out there for it
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Old 07-07-2017, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by strodedawg View Post
Grabbing one of these for the winter, where can i find a good 13.5 set-up to start with and what servos are out there for it
You can find some of the teams setups throughout this thread. I would encourage you to start there and adjust to your liking. We are available to answer any questions you might have.

Most of the micro/mini servos out there will fit, some easier then others. I don't have a list of models but I run the Sanwa/Airtronics Micro Servo.
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:49 PM
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Default Tweak

What's the correct way to check tweak. I've seen and heard lots of different ways to check it from pennies on the front wheels to tweak boards. Some with dampers others without. What's the consensus?
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
What's the correct way to check tweak. I've seen and heard lots of different ways to check it from pennies on the front wheels to tweak boards. Some with dampers others without. What's the consensus?
If you are asking about "tweak" as having equal weight on both front and both rear wheels, that is not very important, it's nice, but as long as the difference is 10% or less i would say its not worth correcting if your car is already at legal weight.

The best way I found to set tweak is to install some new tires, then first remove your side dampeners to make it easier, then back off or remove your side springs so the car is only held up by the main spring. Set the front end level by changing the pre-load or droop on your front springs, then you can tighten back down your rear side springs so that they read the same as when they were off the chassis. Then re-install the dampeners. Do not try to correct a chassis cross-weight with the side springs, this will make the car turn much harder one direction than the other.

I think that the "static weight" of the car without side springs or dampeners is your objective to get back to once they are re-installed.
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:40 PM
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Hi guys,


A couple of questions here, hope to find some help:

1. How to adjust pod droop? By tightening or untightening the shock ball cup?

2. What's the approach if I need more on power steering?

3. What will happen if my ball diff is not ultra smooth? Let say after 5-7 5 minute runs after complete rebuild. My car over steers unpredictably, after 2-3 minutes, I'm trying to find out the problems.


Thank you very much for your time.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:21 PM
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A couple of questions here, hope to find some help:

1. How to adjust pod droop? By tightening or untightening the shock ball cup?
- That is correct.

2. What's the approach if I need more on power steering?
- The first thing I would ask is where do you need on power steering? I ask this because 12th scales in general are not going to have a ton of on power steering in 180deg corners. If you're searching for more on power steering through the sweeper you can change your front sauce amount, glue less, or adjust your radio. Generally we are not tuning the car to have more on power steering because it's never an issue. I would look to other things if you don't think you have enough on power steering. How big are your circles?

3. What will happen if my ball diff is not ultra smooth? Let say after 5-7 5 minute runs after complete rebuild. My car over steers unpredictably, after 2-3 minutes, I'm trying to find out the problems.
- This depends how you define "ultra smooth." A good diff is very important in 12th scale so if you can start to feel notches in the rings/balls then it's time for a rebuild. A poor diff actually robs steering like you wouldn't believe and can make things unpredictable. That being said, use CRC components and sand the diff rings prior to building the diff and your diff should last a long time in 17.5 or 13.5, mod is a different beast. The diff that's in my car lasted 2.5 months at the end of this year and it's still butter smooth.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:29 AM
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Less rearr droop gives me more on power steering.
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:22 AM
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Thank you for your answers.
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Old 07-13-2017, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW) View Post
Hi guys,


A couple of questions here, hope to find some help:

3. What will happen if my ball diff is not ultra smooth? Let say after 5-7 5 minute runs after complete rebuild. My car over steers unpredictably, after 2-3 minutes, I'm trying to find out the problems.


Thank you very much for your time.
I think I know what the problem may be, as my car diffs can do something similar.

I assemble diffs with as little grease as possible so the 'bite' of the ball is good and the diff wont slip. What this means though is that the grease can run out within a few races, especially if I am running some Mod and when my diff starts getting dry it will start to heat up and tighten, causing oversteer. When I say heat up, it's still not HOT, but enough to cause what when cool feels like a good diff to become bad after putting some power through it. I would spin up your diff for a minute to simulate racing, then see if it tightens, and if it does I would do a clean-out.

Especially if running more power than 17.5, I do diff cleanouts often. I simply take apart the diff, clean out the dust, and re-assemble with the same components but fresh grease. Set the tension and give it a few spins with the motor, and good to go. You almost never need to your diff balls or other parts in the diff unless they have seen a lot of abuse.

I would also recommend Xenon gears. They are 16 ball gears but work perfectly fine with 8 or 12, and they are the most true gears I have ever run.
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Old 07-13-2017, 07:11 PM
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Last night, I reduced the rear droop and the on power steering is back.

Now I'm going after for even more speed in and out of corners. I think I can squeeze more speed from the esc (hobbywing V3.1 1S)

I run on medium to high bite asphalt, 10k side tubes, red side springs, red center spring (35wt oil). JFT S foam 35 front, 30 rear.

Last edited by Ted Su(TW); 07-18-2017 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 04:08 PM
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Anyone know size spur is included in the kit?
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Pekr.da.skurl View Post
Anyone know size spur is included in the kit?
I believe it is an 80 tooth spur that is included in the kit.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:38 PM
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Default Tube vent holes

Are the damper tube vent holes supposed to be oriented a particular way? At .125 of thread per rhe manual they point straight down
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Are the damper tube vent holes supposed to be oriented a particular way? At .125 of thread per rhe manual they point straight down
Should not be an issue. I have some holes pointing down and am in my 15th year running CRC 1/12 scale cars. Those holes are to provide equilibrium for the air in the tube when the piston moves in and out. It prevents blowing out the fluid towards to open end of the tube. Not only would that be messy, but it would make tuning the dampening impossible.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gmintimidator View Post
Are the damper tube vent holes supposed to be oriented a particular way? At .125 of thread per rhe manual they point straight down
It should not matter, you just have to keep them clear so they actually vent the dampener. I know I never much paid attention.
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