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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 03-30-2016, 01:43 PM
  #1921  
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The blocks dont actually specify the caster angle, but the dynamic caster setting. Or how much the caster changes on compression. More dynamic caster will give you LESS static caster as the suspension is compressed.
You see 9 on your gauge due to the blocks used in conjunction with the upper arm shimming at rest. Compress the suspension to see the effect.

The tool is particularly useful if your car is illhandling with more steering one way than the other. It can show you if your upper arms or caster blocks have been damaged or tweaked in crashes as the caster could be out by several degrees.
On that note also make sure you check front droop regularly. Ive noticed the kingpins can back out causing difficult handling heh.

*edit. Brian faster than me to the punch with more information*
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:11 PM
  #1922  
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It's me Brian. The car originally had the 10* red blocks. After looking at your setup sheet, I put on the 5* blocks. I didn't know there were plastic versions but I have now found them. I will put on the 5* blocks and set the caster to 5. The aluminum one must have twisted the upper arm because the caster gauge definitely read around 9*. I will change the camber to 1.25*. I adjusted to 3/4. How much toe? I was suggesting to Mike that you should have a preseason " how to set up a 12th scale car clinic" next fall. Maybe you can convince a few more folk to run in the class.
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:20 PM
  #1923  
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Toe is a "feeling" setting for me. If I want the car to initiate turn in a little harder, toeing out a 1/4 turn on the turnbuckles is an easy thing to try. If I need to calm entry steering on higher grip, I reduce toe. Do you like your fries with salt or plain. Same thing.

I do not use a gauge for toe. I visually look down the sides of the front tires and see where it intersects with the rear tire. If you build the rear at 172mm and the front at 168mm, and you see about a 1/4" of each rear tire, that is about -1/2* toe out which is my base setting.

Over and out, aloha. See ya all in Denver.
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:05 PM
  #1924  
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Thanks for your help Brian. Enjoy your vacation. I'm not going to Denver? Aloha.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:31 AM
  #1925  
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Is anyone else frustrated with the new screw and ball nut on the steering knuckle? I have tried putting loc tite in them, but if I ever try to unscrew them, they break because they are so fragile but if I don't they loosen and back out.

I am contemplating just retrofitting older ballstuds into those spots. I think those red anodized ballnuts (or whatever you call them) are crap..

Am I wrong? what am I missing?
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:56 AM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by kansasracer View Post
Is anyone else frustrated with the new screw and ball nut on the steering knuckle? I have tried putting loc tite in them, but if I ever try to unscrew them, they break because they are so fragile but if I don't they loosen and back out.

I am contemplating just retrofitting older ballstuds into those spots. I think those red anodized ballnuts (or whatever you call them) are crap..

Am I wrong? what am I missing?
Using Loctite anywhere near a plastic part is generally not a good idea. It can make the plastic brittle.

Try using just a little Weldwood contact cement on the screw threads, after the screw is already inserted through the steering arm, but before screwing the ball onto the threads. I always carry some in my kit if you want to try it. I use it on all the screw threads on all of my cars. It keeps the screws from backing out, but never fully seizes up, so you won't strip the heads while doing repairs and maintenance.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:09 PM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by kansasracer View Post
Is anyone else frustrated with the new screw and ball nut on the steering knuckle? I have tried putting loc tite in them, but if I ever try to unscrew them, they break because they are so fragile but if I don't they loosen and back out.

I am contemplating just retrofitting older ballstuds into those spots. I think those red anodized ballnuts (or whatever you call them) are crap..

Am I wrong? what am I missing?
I swapped mine out to Team Associated tall ball studs (part number 9796) and 4-40 locknuts. No worries about them backing out and you don't have to mess with locktite or any other glue around the plastics.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
I swapped mine out to Team Associated tall ball studs (part number 9796) and 4-40 locknuts. No worries about them backing out and you don't have to mess with locktite or any other glue around the plastics.
Perfect! That's what I am doing for sure. I knew I couldnt have been the only one.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Using Loctite anywhere near a plastic part is generally not a good idea. It can make the plastic brittle.

Try using just a little Weldwood contact cement on the screw threads, after the screw is already inserted through the steering arm, but before screwing the ball onto the threads. I always carry some in my kit if you want to try it. I use it on all the screw threads on all of my cars. It keeps the screws from backing out, but never fully seizes up, so you won't strip the heads while doing repairs and maintenance.
I might take you up on that Howard...thanks for the tip!
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:58 PM
  #1930  
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Just recently went through my still wc and found the front suspension binding up and down. Anyone have any recommendations on what I should be doing to free this up? I admit I have dug into this yet but I'm thinking this is probably coming from the kingpin going through he lower ball. Also knowing that they are working on a new wgt r chassis anything coming down the pipeline for the 1/12?
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:05 PM
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Definitely look at the pinch screw on the lower arm to see if it is binding up the pivot ball. I like to use a steel 1/8" axle, king pin, etc and place it in the pivot ball holding the A arm sideways. Loosen the pinch screw till the king pin drops under its own weight. This could be me, but I've found the recent chrome balls to be slightly under sized requiring more pinch to remove slop making the A arm hole football shaped. That takes care of the camber slop but makes the caster change sticky. I like the bronze balls for A arm fit, but the king pin slop is more. The stock delrin balls are a nice slide on the king pins but a little sloppy in the A arm requiring a bit more pinch which then distorts the delrin and gets sticky on the kingpins.

I use the bronze with 30K.

Also look at the caster shims to see if its applying pinch to the upper arm/caster block.

Another spot is the upper hinge pin fit in the upper arm. Gotta be free!
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:33 PM
  #1932  
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I bought the slapmadter thrust bearing kit and for the life of me cant seem to get it the nut to screw on and thread into the plastic in the nut. So when i simulate diff action by hand the nut backs off am i missing something. And this is the kit specified for the xti. Any insight would be appreciated
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:16 PM
  #1933  
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
I bought the slapmadter thrust bearing kit and for the life of me cant seem to get it the nut to screw on and thread into the plastic in the nut. So when i simulate diff action by hand the nut backs off am i missing something. And this is the kit specified for the xti. Any insight would be appreciated
I'm not sure what the exact problem is, but if somehow there aren't enough threads on the stud coming out of the main shaft you can swap the flanged bearing on the outer hub for an unflanged and pick up 2mm or so of extra threads.

The normal flanged bearing method should look like this:



The thrust bearings are great, i found that with a little playing with it depending on your bearings used may be necessary, but I have a differential that I run in mod 1/12 that holds better than and diff I've had before.
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:18 PM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I'm not sure what the exact problem is, but if somehow there aren't enough threads on the stud coming out of the main shaft you can swap the flanged bearing on the outer hub for an unflanged and pick up 2mm or so of extra threads.

The normal flanged bearing method should look like this:



The thrust bearings are great, i found that with a little playing with it depending on your bearings used may be necessary, but I have a differential that I run in mod 1/12 that holds better than and diff I've had before.
Agh that's a great idea that I didn't think of. Lol yea for some reason I just don't have enough thread engagement
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:40 AM
  #1935  
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When CRC started using the F-1 axle for the WC kit, my thrust kit will no long work on that axle. There are two obvious ways to check to see if you have the new axle: its a 4mm stud and the stud is only .29" long. Sadly, the threaded stud is not long enough to install a thrust bearing and the low profile nut.

If you have the older original axle, the threads will be 8-32 and roughly .43" long. If you are having issues getting the nut into the nylock, chances are the spacer is too long. You should be using either the .15 or the .17 spacer based on which diff ball is in play.

Congrats to Mitch Witteman last weekend TQ'ing and winning SS 12 at MHIC in Denver with his WC. I got to watch first hand from my marshal spot! I drove my WC out of the A earlier in the day. Mitch's car looked flat out amazing. Mitch's meticulous attention to detail is second to none. Well done!

Brian
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