valk

iTrader: (13)

10 degree blocks, two shims back.
Pretty good place to start.

Also build it with all the lubes and oils that come in the kit. Will work great then you can adjust.
I tried the 5 deg blocks a few times and never liked them but it depends on the class your running ect.
Stock oils, stock springs, 0.5mm front droop 1.5 rear. About a degree of camber/toe and watch the tires.

Unfortunate about the box mixup and broken stuff, fortunate that crc stuff is everywhere and very cheap while you wait for replies.
Ps get the shock extender.. makes pod droop adjustment very nice and eliminates dependance on those super small ballcups

Ted Su(TW)

Anyone has more pictures or info about the Blackart tub chassis for the Xti?

Very cool looking chassis but I can't find any additional info except their website.


Thanks.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

From what I've heard the BlackArt tub chassis didn't work out as hoped. Sad, because it's a thing of beauty.

Ted Su(TW)

Yes it's a beauty and very cool.

I think I'll like to give it a try no matter what. I love to drive cool looking cars.

jannedwr

Ok, thanks! Crc emailed me back and will send new parts, that's what I call really good service! Thanks CRC!

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Has anybody found a micro servo that fits and they liked more than the Airtronics unit? Mine has gotten a little crunchy and loud in it's old age and with the hits it has taken.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I've always wondered why CRC cars have a "nose down" look to them. Is it because of the dynamic caster block position?

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

Anyone have any recent medium bite carpet set ups they can post?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Personally I run 5 degree Reactive caster blocks
caster 2 shims forward 1 rear
.5 Front Springs
about .5mm front droop ( I do not use the measure the kingpin method as I find the springs are never exactly the same size )

Double Pink fronts or Blue Fronts(if using Green Rears)

White Center Shock Spring with 25 wt oil

10 to 15k damper tube oil depending on track layout

.45 Side springs (Similar to the white)

.5mm pod droop

Pink Rear tires (or green)

Ride height will depend on driving style and track needs I usually run 3.5 F 3.5 M and 3.75 Rear

StillLearning

Hello folks,

I am about to purchase one of these Xti WC kits get into the local racing scene. Seems to be simpler to build that a TC and as long as I can keep it mostly off the pipes there should be a manageable amount of race-to-race work

I have been unable to find a manual online and the only video I have been able to find is 3 years old, so I was wondering what tools I should look for to build the kit. I already know about the ride height gauge and the camber gauge. What socket drivers and allen wrenches should I make sure I have? I also already have digital calipers.

Thank you for any advice you can provide.

Marc

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

CRC's use standard hardware, and use a 1/16 driver for recessed and cap head screws, 3/32 for wheel screws and others that are socket head, 2mm (or 5/64) for a few screws, your motor screws are still 2.5mm metric, and I think all of the locknuts are 3/16 inch except for the axle nut, which is 11/32, or the same as every standard-thread touring car or offroad wheel nut ever.

One piece of advice I would give for assembly would be to pre-thread your front arms, either by carefully threading the cap head included in the kit or another 8-32 screw into the arm where you can keep it completely straight or use an actual tap and cut threads about half way through the piece. It's worth doing carefully because when threading something with fairly large threads into plastic it can try to angle itself poorly and warp the piece. I half-cut the threads with my tap in my drill press (you don't need to tell me that this is overkill, I know) so it was straight as possible, then put a dab of CA glue on the front end mount screws and they haven't moved or loosened a micron. You can still get it apart if you need, the CA doesn't stick to the stainless steel screw very well, just keeps it from shaking loose.

If this is your first 1/12 scale the biggest mistake everybody makes in their first kit is making it way too tight. Everything in your suspension that should move needs to move absolutely free, pivot balls, kingpins, top arms, the rear pod, and the rest. A little play is always better than binding, and that can ruin an otherwise well built cars handling.

Aside from that, there are endless little tips, like make sure your servo horn is dead center in the chassis (measure reference the front sub-frame with your calipers), or fully cut out your body before painting it to make sure it fits without hitting your wires or electronics, and make it fit "loose" with a little play on the body mounts to keep it from tweaking, little things like that. It's all a play on the same theme: everything must move free in order for the car to handle, and if it doesn't handle it will be very difficult to drive.

The parts are few in number, but attention to detail during kit assembly or a little help from an experienced local pan car racer can go a long way toward making your car run well.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I run the above mentioned on midhigh bite with crc spec lilacs in 13.5.
Ill adjust center springs from red to black to purple as grip builds and between 30k in tubes to one tube with 60k and the other 20 or 30.
55 rear springs default position.
I don't mess with the front too much. Though ill sometimes run 45 springs to get a little more steering.
Stiffening the center shock does this too so ill do that first.
Running 734 gr with straka abd most weight forward. Very fast for me but lots of steering I'm told by others ha.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I've been so impressed with these cars in the stock racing scene and I am ready to pull the trigger on getting one.

What spare and option parts should I pick up right away?

Cheers.

StillLearning

This is what I was told by a racer at the local track. He runs this car and wins most of the mod races (just local racers):

1. Xti WC kit
2. Black art Lola body
3. Set of pinions from 52-57
4. They apparently sell nice wire for 1/12 scale, so he recommended picking up that.
5. He also recommended picking up a 7000 1s lipo from the site because he said they were really good now, but others have recommended other batteries.
6. A spare set of ball bearings.

We race on carpet with spec tires so he recommended the WGT Stripe tires as a good fit, but that is specific to our track.

He also said that the Wc built straight out of the box would be competitive so he didn't mention any upgrades.

Anyway, take that for what it i worth

Marc

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, I already have all that stuff.

I am talking more like spare arms, hub carriers, side links and so on.

- At what tire diameter size should I start to use the optional ride height shims? I noticed the shop is out of these shims and wondering if they are needed for 40~41 mm front diameter?

Cheers.