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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 08-07-2015, 09:24 AM
  #1816  
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What servo saver do I need for the Airtronics 94761z? Is it the kimbrough 113?
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:35 PM
  #1817  
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Yes 113, the grey one.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:11 PM
  #1818  
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Ok guys I got my kit assembled as per the included instructions and was hoping there would be some sort of box stock setup included. There isnt. So a few questions about basic starting setup. Something very nuetral and easy to drive would be best.

I used the recomended 5 degree caster blocks and put 2 shims at the back and 1 at the front on the pin. I have all the stock springs that came with the kit.

Question is what should I set my camber, toe and ride height at to get started? Where do you set the ride height from on the rear?
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:29 PM
  #1819  
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Ok guys I got my kit assembled as per the included instructions and was hoping there would be some sort of box stock setup included. There isnt. So a few questions about basic starting setup. Something very nuetral and easy to drive would be best.

I used the recomended 5 degree caster blocks and put 2 shims at the back and 1 at the front on the pin. I have all the stock springs that came with the kit.

Question is what should I set my camber, toe and ride height at to get started? Where do you set the ride height from on the rear?
The kit springs (front, side, & shock) present a good starting point. 5 deg caster blocks with two shims at the back is also a good baseline, so you are on the right track there. With respect to camber, typically you should start at 1 degree negative on each side and adjust from there to achive even flat wear on the front tires. If you want/need more steering, a little more camber can help to provide it, but it is usually best to adjust camber so the tires wear flat and don't cone at all. Minimum legal ride height for carpet is 3mm, but I typically run 3.5mm to be sure that the chassis doesn't drag anywhere. On an extra bumpy track it is sometimes beneficial to go up to 4mm. Basically, the smoother the track and the higher the grip......the lower you'll want to go on your ride height. Rear ride height is measured under the rear of the motor pod both left and right sides, just inboard of the pod's aluminum side plates. Middle ride height is measured at the wings of the pod, under the area where the side springs rest on the lower pod plate. Front ride height is checked at the very front of the chassis. Most guys run their car level at all 3 points or perhaps just a tad higher at the rear (to add a touch more front weight and steering). Hope this helps. Fortunately the "out of the box" setup on the WC edition car is a usually a really nice starting point for guys and for most track conditions.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:00 AM
  #1820  
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
The kit springs (front, side, & shock) present a good starting point. 5 deg caster blocks with two shims at the back is also a good baseline, so you are on the right track there. With respect to camber, typically you should start at 1 degree negative on each side and adjust from there to achive even flat wear on the front tires. If you want/need more steering, a little more camber can help to provide it, but it is usually best to adjust camber so the tires wear flat and don't cone at all. Minimum legal ride height for carpet is 3mm, but I typically run 3.5mm to be sure that the chassis doesn't drag anywhere. On an extra bumpy track it is sometimes beneficial to go up to 4mm. Basically, the smoother the track and the higher the grip......the lower you'll want to go on your ride height. Rear ride height is measured under the rear of the motor pod both left and right sides, just inboard of the pod's aluminum side plates. Middle ride height is measured at the wings of the pod, under the area where the side springs rest on the lower pod plate. Front ride height is checked at the very front of the chassis. Most guys run their car level at all 3 points or perhaps just a tad higher at the rear (to add a touch more front weight and steering). Hope this helps. Fortunately the "out of the box" setup on the WC edition car is a usually a really nice starting point for guys and for most track conditions.
Yes that helps a ton. Thank you.
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:58 AM
  #1821  
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So in setting up the car I found it impossible to get lower than about 6mm in front without cutting the front tires down. The rear was fine and I got down to as low as 3mm but put it back up to about 4mm for starting. I am using Jaco Black on the front and Jaco Yellow on the rear to start with. The front tires were about 46.5mm out of the package and the rears are about 45. I left the rears alone but cut the fronts to 43mm. This dropped the ride height in the front to about 5mm or so. I had already stacked 2 of the aluminum washers under the front end plate, but I dont like it like that I would rather have it flat on the chassis. I see in the instructions that there is a part (#4261) ride height shim set that goes under the lower arms. If I get one set can I stack them up enough to take up the space that the two washers make up? Should I get more than one set?

Another problem I encountered was installing the servo. I used the Savox SH-1250MG. I cut off one of the ears as per the instructions. But the servo still didnt fit flat on the chassis. I'm not sure filing the front end plate would have made it fit better but I was worried about weakening the plate by shaving it out. Since the servo didnt fit it went in kind crooked horizontally. Its a little higher on the outside by the lower arm mount that it is on the inside. Since it only mounted with one mount and a screw I servo taped it into place with a double stack of servo tape. I guess its ok like that but I dont like it.

I'm ordering the 4261 shim set and maybe some extra tires to try today. Any suggestions on replacement or option parts I should have on hand?

Heres some pics of the build. I think I got everything together ok. I havent had a chance to get to the track and try it yet so I have no idea how it drives. Just got the body painted yesterday and will get some body on shots once I'm done.

Its weird to feel like a newbie again when I have actually been racing for years. But 1/12 is totally new to me. Thanks for everybody's help.









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Old 08-17-2015, 10:13 AM
  #1822  
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The ride height shims that go between the graphite U-piece and the lower suspension arm really shouldn't be stacked up more then just one orange and one yellow shim per side. So you'll only need one set of those shims. Any more than that and the nylon boss that is molded into the suspension arms won't sit securely enough in the big locating holes in the grapite U-plate. Those ride height shims are really intended as a relatively fine ride adjustment. Unless you are running on abrasive asphalt, and definitely for carpet, it is preferable to true your tires down a fair amount smaller than they come new in the package. The XTiWC is designed as a top level competition car and virtually everyone who races at a high level runs their tires (especially the fronts) pretty small these days. If you really do want to run big tires up front (not recommended), then you'll need to shim the U-plate up in order to achieve your desired ride height.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:49 AM
  #1823  
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Ya in the instructions it says you can add more or thicker shims for taller tires, but I dont like the way it fit and its hard as hell to get all six installed. I dont mind cutting the tires down to a proper height. I really would rather have the front end plate or graphite u-piece bolted directly to the chassis. I will order the 4261 shim set. There is also a roll center set that I might get while I'm at it.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:51 PM
  #1824  
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
Ya in the instructions it says you can add more or thicker shims for taller tires, but I dont like the way it fit and its hard as hell to get all six installed. I dont mind cutting the tires down to a proper height. I really would rather have the front end plate or graphite u-piece bolted directly to the chassis. I will order the 4261 shim set. There is also a roll center set that I might get while I'm at it.
The WC car tends to have a lot of natural steering, which is a very good thing. But for some conditions it can be beneficial to add the graphite roll center spacers (raise the caster blocks). Doing so takes a some of the natural agression out of the car and makes it a little more mellow to drive.

About your servo, it appears to be a bit big and heavy for using in the front mounted position. I suggest that you may like the car's handling better with the servo mounted behind the tierods. For sure, my car (with a futaba 9650, which is about the same size and bulk as yours) feels better with the servo positioned behind the tierods. No worries though, one servo mount along with some good strong servo tape (or shoo goo) will hold the servo in place just fine.

One last suggestion.....in the photos it appears that your motor wires are quite large and certainly bigger and stiffer than is preferred. For a sweet handing 1/12th scale car, it is critical that nothing binds up the rear pod, and thick stiff motor wires will almost always do that. Even if you don't want switch to thinner wires (TQ 16ga is kinda the 1/12th scale wire of choice), you certainly don't want to wire tie the motor wires together. Doing so exaggerates their stiffness and magnifies their combined effect on the pod's free motion.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:58 PM
  #1825  
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How about tires. Any suggestions on brand and type. I have not raced in a while but I go to a carpet track in Durham nc
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:45 PM
  #1826  
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At HoB Max, we run Black front Gray rear if the track has not been treated. When the grip is high(er), like it was yesterday, then you can pick Blue or Blue/Blue fronts and Blue or Green rears. Just depends on the person and preference. This if for BSR tires. Perry might run something different there. CRC tires?
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:25 PM
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At first, and before Jose found the recent and highly effective routine for prepping the HoBMax track, CRC black fronts w/ grey rears was the only tire combo that I could get to hook up for the full 8 minutes. Lately, and since the track prep has yielded much better overall grip, I've been having good success with CRC blu fronts w/ greene rears. Dbl blu fronts w/ blu rears should also work.
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:34 PM
  #1828  
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At first, and before Jose found the recent and highly effective routine for prepping the HoBMax track, CRC black fronts w/ grey rears was the only tire combo that I could get to hook up for the full 8 minutes. Lately, and since the track prep has yielded much better overall grip, I've been having good success with CRC blu fronts w/ greene rears. Dbl blu fronts w/ blu rears should also work.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:59 PM
  #1829  
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
At first, and before Jose found the recent and highly effective routine for prepping the HoBMax track, CRC black fronts w/ grey rears was the only tire combo that I could get to hook up for the full 8 minutes. Lately, and since the track prep has yielded much better overall grip, I've been having good success with CRC blu fronts w/ greene rears. Dbl blu fronts w/ blu rears should also work.
Curious what that track prep method is that works so well?
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:26 PM
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Fairy dust... hehe
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