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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 03-16-2015, 07:50 PM
  #1711  
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On some weeks our track condition can be less than ideal, so our tires can tend to fuzz up badly, loosing grip mid run. Under those conditions I've discovered that the black/grey combo sheds the fuzz better and allows me to sustain strong lap times thru the whole 8 minutes. But on weeks when the turnout is better and the carpet grooves in nicely, then I find the blu family of rubber to be the hot ticket.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
Or...........one could just run the WC edition car exactly as it comes out of the box......a really excellent package. Only notable things that I've changed on mine from a pure kit setup is going up from 20K to 30K in the tubes and spacing the ball ends on the steering blocks up to minimize bump steer. With just those two things done to my car, it absolutely rocks in 17.5 with either dbl blu/blu or with black/grey.
Used the 30K and the car traction rolled. This WC had a 13.5 in it. More changes required. Thanks for your input.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:08 PM
  #1713  
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
On some weeks our track condition can be less than ideal, so our tires can tend to fuzz up badly, loosing grip mid run. Under those conditions I've discovered that the black/grey combo sheds the fuzz better and allows me to sustain strong lap times thru the whole 8 minutes. But on weeks when the turnout is better and the carpet grooves in nicely, then I find the blu family of rubber to be the hot ticket.
I heard something interesting over the weekend. If your track vacuums, you may see more fuzzing issues. One track started "blowing" and the issue was immediately better! Guess you could take an electric blower, collect all the debris in one spot, then vacuum that up. I have no experience with this, just hear say.

But Im 100% with you on using blk/gry on fuzz. Its a shame you have to tolerate it though.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by waltss2k View Post
Thinking about trying the Lola over the Black Art or the new Toyota. Will that make a huge difference since I'm running the In line Xti.
My two cents on testing these two bodies are:

The Toyota was loose on corner entry on all motors on different tracks. I guess you could take that as it has more steering, but I actually felt like it lacked rear grip. I like the Mohawk better then the Toyota. One of the French were using it at Worlds in the A. So take that for what it is worth.

The Lola is a great spec body. I am going to say that it is slightly smoother then the R8C which is pretty aggressive. The Lola is high speed aggressive.

I've tested a Strakka as well. It is the smoothest, most consistent spec body I have ever driven.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:23 PM
  #1715  
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Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
hey guys what sort of servo do I need for one of these cars? micro?

I usually run a Savox 1257 tg in my RC10 so looking for something similar quality.

Also are there any true benefits from running a dedicated 1s esc like the Hobbywing 120A V3.1?

Thanks v much for your help
The JR 3650 is pre-drilled for the chassis. So is the Air 94761 which is what I use, they run about $58.

What you are looking for in a 1s speedo is the internal booster that spits out 5.5-6v and at least 3amps. If you grab any old esc, you will have to run a rx pack or ext booster. A bit more hassle, but doable. That HW wing get the job done nicely.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:05 AM
  #1716  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
There is also the VX3 with vers 4.3

Apologies for sidetracking this thread

Here's a pic to stay on topic

Actually, I'm the one that sort of hijacked the thread, and all because I was too lazy to dig up the VX1, plug it in, and try it,... rather than trust my memory.

By the way, the VX3 is very pretty! Now, back to the subject at hand:

Your picture reminds me of one of the differences of the WC to the transverse XTi that I'm running: the WC has the front sub-plate connected to the main chassis with six screws. I had thought that the four-screw arrangement on my car was a weak point, but I'm sitting here looking at the results from a big crash on Sunday, and I'm seeing a broken caster block, but an intact sub-plate. So it seems even the 4-screw arrangement is pretty darn strong.

I also changed the four 8-32 screws to aluminum to save weight, and they survived the crash too.
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
The JR 3650 is pre-drilled for the chassis. So is the Air 94761 which is what I use, they run about $58.

What you are looking for in a 1s speedo is the internal booster that spits out 5.5-6v and at least 3amps. If you grab any old esc, you will have to run a rx pack or ext booster. A bit more hassle, but doable. That HW wing get the job done nicely.
Thanks v much!
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:48 PM
  #1718  
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Id be interested to know if anyone has run their WC like the above picture inline.
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Old 03-17-2015, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
My two cents on testing these two bodies are:

The Toyota was loose on corner entry on all motors on different tracks. I guess you could take that as it has more steering, but I actually felt like it lacked rear grip. I like the Mohawk better then the Toyota. One of the French were using it at Worlds in the A. So take that for what it is worth.

The Lola is a great spec body. I am going to say that it is slightly smoother then the R8C which is pretty aggressive. The Lola is high speed aggressive.

I've tested a Strakka as well. It is the smoothest, most consistent spec body I have ever driven.
I guess I should have been more clear on what I meant to ask. I meant to ask is it possible to run any other 12th scale body Without a dorsal fin, I was told no that the Inline car has to run a body with the dorsal. True or false
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Old 03-17-2015, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by waltss2k View Post
I guess I should have been more clear on what I meant to ask. I meant to ask is it possible to run any other 12th scale body Without a dorsal fin, I was told no that the Inline car has to run a body with the dorsal. True or false
That would be false. Your choice of body is a minor tuning choice, much less important than, say, springs.
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Old 03-17-2015, 05:03 PM
  #1721  
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Originally Posted by waltss2k View Post
I guess I should have been more clear on what I meant to ask. I meant to ask is it possible to run any other 12th scale body Without a dorsal fin, I was told no that the Inline car has to run a body with the dorsal. True or false
I ran my XTI with the Speed 8 HD and the AMR bodies. The Speed 8 HD has 2 inboard fins to help with stability but no dorsal fin. The car ran great with both. The Speed 8 HD was just a little more stable but the AMR was faster.
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:34 PM
  #1722  
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I heard something interesting over the weekend. If your track vacuums, you may see more fuzzing issues. One track started "blowing" and the issue was immediately better! Guess you could take an electric blower, collect all the debris in one spot, then vacuum that up. I have no experience with this, just hear say.

...............
I agree with this one. I used to race in Dayton, OH during the days before TC's and rubber tires. The track owner would sweep the carpet periodically, but he had disabled the rotating brush, only using the vacuum feature of the sweeper. He explained to me the reason was to eliminate any upsetting of the grain of the carpet so we could build a groove faster. So, I deduce that if you don't upset the filaments of the carpet, they will not be pulled away from the backing and find their way to the surface of the tires.

Additionally, we only used Ground Effects from Paragon in the old days. It was the only traction compound that passed the "cotton ball" test. This test required the compound applied to the tire and then placed on a ball of cotton after prep for a run. The cotton ball must fall away from the tire by normal gravity to pass. Fast forward to now, I don't think any of the current "odorless" compounds will do this. The tires are sticky, the track is sticky, but we have no odor. And we now also have a tire that picks up any debris on the track and will not let it go. That affects tire performance and results in inconsistent traction. That didn't happen in the old days.
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
Id be interested to know if anyone has run their WC like the above picture inline.
Tim, if it is true that the WC chassis has an identical hole pattern to the AE chassis and the rear upper and lower pod plates are also the same, then yes, I have done that. And that includes using the long side links. But, I put the battery forward and placed the speed control behind it next to the pivot ball.
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Tim, if it is true that the WC chassis has an identical hole pattern to the AE chassis and the rear upper and lower pod plates are also the same, then yes, I have done that. And that includes using the long side links. But, I put the battery forward and placed the speed control behind it next to the pivot ball.
Interesting! How does it feel on the track is it closer to the inline xti?
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
Interesting! How does it feel on the track is it closer to the inline xti?
I don't know. I didn't really like it. I changed the rear lower and upper pod plates to the ones that originally came on the XTi. They were a little shorter than the ones for the AE. I like that car a lot in 17.5. I feel the best part of this configuration is the long side links. They allow more rolling travel of the chassis than the short ones from the XTi, and you can locate the side springs a little further to the outside. It just strarted to work. Then stiffened the side springs and dampers, went to stiffer oil in the center shock and use the center spring to tune. The car rotates well at my track, and feels consistent as traction builds. All this was started a year ago when Slapmaster posted this configuration on this forum. Tried it in 13.5 and moved the shock forward about 1/4 inch with softer springs. Still messin' with that a little, but am putting most emphasis on the WC.

Last edited by davidl; 03-18-2015 at 07:46 AM.
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