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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 03-15-2015, 03:10 PM
  #1696  
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I'm guessing that's a running change to the axle? Mine fits perfectly.
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:37 PM
  #1697  
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Originally Posted by ChadB. View Post
Sorry David, I had just seen this. It is the short-wheelbase.
Your XTi is a short wheelbase car making it the same length as the Altered Ego. The new WC car is also the same length so the following should work.

Slapmaster posted this setup sheet for a 13.5 motor a couple months ago. Let's see if I can get it on this post.

He also is a proponent of the following for a mod motor.

(Slapmaster Quote) I ran a box stock WC in mod last Sat. The only things that would be changed was the addition of the 2.5 camber gain spacer and a green center spring. I used double blue/ blue at 40.2/41.8. By the main, it was one of the best mod cars I have driven. I started the night with a purple center spring and the bottom of the chassis was clean, but it over rotated entering this one corner from a fairly high speed. I reduced to a green spring and cured the over rotation, but the chassis started to goop up a little. I added 1mm under the rear ball stud for the main. I could drive it even harder and by doing so, it gooped the bottom up a little but had no effect on handling. That being said, I will likely change from the 50 front springs to 45's and go back to the purple or black to see if I can get a tick more "on" steering without getting that over rotation. But it was a pretty fun car to drive! (END Slapmaster quote)

He runs the stock upper pod plate for low bite tracks and uses the 3263 plate when the traction comes up. The theory is to move the shock forward for higher traction so you can use the stiffer center springs to keep the car from bottoming out while not overloading the front suspension with the force of that stiff spring. All of this has been addressed in this forum at different times. If you have time just go back to page 102 and read forward. I couldn't include everything that is there. Hope that helps.
Attached Files
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GenXL WC WCICS '15 (3) (1).pdf (443.8 KB, 164 views)

Last edited by davidl; 03-16-2015 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:33 PM
  #1698  
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Your XTi is a short wheelbase car making it the same length as the Altered Ego. The new WC car is also the same length so the following should work.

Slapmaster posted this setup sheet for a 13.5 motor a couple months ago. Let's see if I can get it on this post.

He also is a proponent of the following for a mod motor.

I ran a box stock WC in mod last Sat. The only things that would be changed was the addition of the 2.5 camber gain spacer and a green center spring. I used double blue/ blue at 40.2/41.8. By the main, it was one of the best mod cars I have driven. I started the night with a purple center spring and the bottom of the chassis was clean, but it over rotated entering this one corner from a fairly high speed. I reduced to a green spring and cured the over rotation, but the chassis started to goop up a little. I added 1mm under the rear ball stud for the main. I could drive it even harder and by doing so, it gooped the bottom up a little but had no effect on handling. That being said, I will likely change from the 50 front springs to 45's and go back to the purple or black to see if I can get a tick more "on" steering without getting that over rotation. But it was a pretty fun car to drive!

He runs the stock upper pod plate for low bite tracks and uses the 3263 plate when the traction comes up. The theory is to move the shock forward for higher traction so you can use the stiffer center springs to keep the car from bottoming out while not overloading the front suspension with the force of that stiff spring. All of this has been addressed in this forum at different times. If you have time just go back to page 102 and read forward. I couldn't include everything that is there. Hope that helps.
Thanks a bunch for your help. You have provided me with a bunch information and I appreciate it.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I have been using Orca VX1 in all my 12th and wgt... I also like how you can switch the ABC to CBA out of the esc so you can get your wire nice and flat (so you are not criss crossing wire under a tight space)...
If I recall correctly, the ROAR-approved version doesn't have this feature (if that is important to you). Apparently the code to do this was located in the commutation algorithm, and added just enough processing time to push the delay past the limit of 10us.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:38 AM
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Howard, I save that kind of stuff for the manufacturers! Although I have not heard any issues about that. First I'm hearing of it.

David, glad you are getting a chance to wheel this little gem around. Sounds like you are working on a solid platform too! I reread your post and just want to add a couple of comments of my recent findings. I am not going to lie, this whole short/long wheel base is annoying and confusing. I do not use it in my references anymore. I feel like I have a handle on it and yet I have to look up part #'s. The WC comes with the Alter Ego rear pod parts which by terminology builds as a long wheel base (if you want to call 201mm long). The WC comes with the #3225 A/E upper plate as well. I am liking the #3225 upper plate for mod as I find the 3263 locks the rear too much and I can not get the car to rotate enough. With that said, if I were to travel to a low grip track to run mod, I would choose the 3263 to see if I could get that grip back. Mod is a fickle creature. It needs balance. But it is fun like you pointed out when it's right! I am in love with the 2bl/blu combo. Go to your 45 front springs and if you are on 50 sides, go to 45's touching. You are right on target by playing with the rear shock ball stud height. I have a tall ball stud with a 1/2mm shim. I use the center spring as a steering barometer. I use purple when I want more "on" steering, green when I need to reduce that. I gum up the hinge line of the chassis and so long as handling is not an issue, I just clean it up after each run. Too much, you will feel the car collapse under hard acceleration and pitch out. Taller ball stud usually fixes this. I had to remove the o-ring from inside the shock to get the shock travel necessary to get a proper threading into the shock cup. If you do not run the c/f shock rail, you can flip the ant mnt around to put the forward ball stud in front. Glad you are having fun running mod with this car. I am too!

Now my stock cars are using the 3263 plate in the fwd hole with the 3rd hole in the rail and a black spring. 45 fronts, 50 rears, 20/30k tubes. We are running stripes, so I use no camber spacers. For blu/blu, I would add the 2.0 camber spacer back in.

Chad, I do not think anyone had a good set up for the A/E running mod. That's why you are not getting a response. If I was to go back and try, this is what I would focus on: I would ditch the long upper arm, use stock short arm, 2.5 camber riser, 45 spring, 010" droop gap, 5 degree reactive, 3-4* of caster, -3/4* cam, -1/2 toe out, tall ball stud on steering arm, no top brace, 2bl front tire no bigger then 40.4mm, purple center spring with 25wt and tall rear ball stud, battery forward, A/E pod parts, 45 sides touching, 20k tubes, blu rear 42mm, ride height: 3.25 nose, 3.75 middle, 3.75 rear, AMR, dope full rear for 25-30 min, front 1/2 for 15. Only add top brace if traction requires it, otherwise make changes to the camber and fr droop.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:44 PM
  #1701  
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Howard, I save that kind of stuff for the manufacturers! Although I have not heard any issues about that. First I'm hearing of it.

David, glad you are getting a chance to wheel this little gem around. Sounds like you are working on a solid platform too! I reread your post and just want to add a couple of comments of my recent findings. I am not going to lie, this whole short/long wheel base is annoying and confusing. I do not use it in my references anymore. I feel like I have a handle on it and yet I have to look up part #'s. The WC comes with the Alter Ego rear pod parts which by terminology builds as a long wheel base (if you want to call 201mm long). The WC comes with the #3225 A/E upper plate as well. I am liking the #3225 upper plate for mod as I find the 3263 locks the rear too much and I can not get the car to rotate enough. With that said, if I were to travel to a low grip track to run mod, I would choose the 3263 to see if I could get that grip back. Mod is a fickle creature. It needs balance. But it is fun like you pointed out when it's right! I am in love with the 2bl/blu combo. Go to your 45 front springs and if you are on 50 sides, go to 45's touching. You are right on target by playing with the rear shock ball stud height. I have a tall ball stud with a 1/2mm shim. I use the center spring as a steering barometer. I use purple when I want more "on" steering, green when I need to reduce that. I gum up the hinge line of the chassis and so long as handling is not an issue, I just clean it up after each run. Too much, you will feel the car collapse under hard acceleration and pitch out. Taller ball stud usually fixes this. I had to remove the o-ring from inside the shock to get the shock travel necessary to get a proper threading into the shock cup. If you do not run the c/f shock rail, you can flip the ant mnt around to put the forward ball stud in front. Glad you are having fun running mod with this car. I am too!

Now my stock cars are using the 3263 plate in the fwd hole with the 3rd hole in the rail and a black spring. 45 fronts, 50 rears, 20/30k tubes. We are running stripes, so I use no camber spacers. For blu/blu, I would add the 2.0 camber spacer back in.

Chad, I do not think anyone had a good set up for the A/E running mod. That's why you are not getting a response. If I was to go back and try, this is what I would focus on: I would ditch the long upper arm, use stock short arm, 2.5 camber riser, 45 spring, 010" droop gap, 5 degree reactive, 3-4* of caster, -3/4* cam, -1/2 toe out, tall ball stud on steering arm, no top brace, 2bl front tire no bigger then 40.4mm, purple center spring with 25wt and tall rear ball stud, battery forward, A/E pod parts, 45 sides touching, 20k tubes, blu rear 42mm, ride height: 3.25 nose, 3.75 middle, 3.75 rear, AMR, dope full rear for 25-30 min, front 1/2 for 15. Only add top brace if traction requires it, otherwise make changes to the camber and fr droop.

Slapmaster, I take your comments as a compliment, but I actually didn't earn them, ...........yet. I was quoting your post and didn't show it properly, thus it appears that is my success. Sorry about that. I will edit my post to better clarify it as your quote so that confusion can be avoided.

But, I am trying to run the stuff you suggest and experience the solid platform as you put it. Firstly, in 17.5 I am still running the short/short inline car and absolutely love it. I am using the AE chassis with the short lower and rear motor pod plates. I haven't been able to get the transverse version to run as well as this version. I dabble with a 13.5 and have settled with almost the same chassis configuration as the 17.5 car. There is something about the feel of this version that is more consistent than the other versions. I look back on the comments from Howard about that short pod and think he was on to something there.

All of the transverse versions I have tried use the longer lower and upper rear pod plates and they aren't consistent for me. This was also the case with the inline version, so I will eventually try the short pod plates with this chassis to see if things settle down. Now I do have a mod car set up transverse and it is making progress. I have the 3263 plate on top and that has helped a lot. I can even run the purple spring on it. It is fun, but I am not going to brag on it since I am not running insane power in that car. Also, I don't get to race the 13.5 and the mod car here. There isn't enough 1/12 scale and especially drivers capable with those cars in this area. I do get to race the 17.5 and rarely have a bad day. Sorry I rambled here.
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Old 03-16-2015, 05:23 PM
  #1702  
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Or...........one could just run the WC edition car exactly as it comes out of the box......a really excellent package. Only notable things that I've changed on mine from a pure kit setup is going up from 20K to 30K in the tubes and spacing the ball ends on the steering blocks up to minimize bump steer. With just those two things done to my car, it absolutely rocks in 17.5 with either dbl blu/blu or with black/grey.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:00 PM
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David, you can spend a lot of time mixing and match parts with the Xti line up. You will build some successful rides. But pull the shrink wrap back on a WC, yep, that's just plain good. Add a couple of tall ball studs at the steering blocks, possibly a rear plate, a spring or two.... you don't have to conjure something up out of the basement to enjoy 12th scale. Stick with mod! You never know who you will influence to run with you and before long you might build a class. It is tough, but you will be surprised what you can learn.

Black/grey???? never tried that combo. I am getting away from all my yel, g/l, grey, blk, chr, etc and just order up blu, 2bl, gre. I find the new stuff is faster in the 4th quarter of running. That being said, a lot of our guys are shifting over to stripes in stock. Our club will likely vote in stripes as the spec tire for next season. I can't say enough good things about them. They make the car a little smoother, therefore you can run them a little taller. They last longer, it's not uncommon to get three club nights on a set! And I find that they are only about 4 seconds slower then a blu/blu combo. I am really impressed how they work.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:20 PM
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Thinking about trying the Lola over the Black Art or the new Toyota. Will that make a huge difference since I'm running the In line Xti.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
David, you can spend a lot of time mixing and match parts with the Xti line up. You will build some successful rides. But pull the shrink wrap back on a WC, yep, that's just plain good. Add a couple of tall ball studs at the steering blocks, possibly a rear plate, a spring or two.... you don't have to conjure something up out of the basement to enjoy 12th scale. Stick with mod! You never know who you will influence to run with you and before long you might build a class. It is tough, but you will be surprised what you can learn.

Black/grey???? never tried that combo. I am getting away from all my yel, g/l, grey, blk, chr, etc and just order up blu, 2bl, gre. I find the new stuff is faster in the 4th quarter of running. That being said, a lot of our guys are shifting over to stripes in stock. Our club will likely vote in stripes as the spec tire for next season. I can't say enough good things about them. They make the car a little smoother, therefore you can run them a little taller. They last longer, it's not uncommon to get three club nights on a set! And I find that they are only about 4 seconds slower then a blu/blu combo. I am really impressed how they work.
The two car I experiement with are WC chassis. I don't experiment with the inline cars any more. Just run the 17.5 inline car in our Friday night series and the 13.5 inline to set a baseline for that night. Then on to the WC chassis.

Regarding a mod class, we went through that during the boosted speedo days. Had one driver that was hell bent on going to Europe for the worlds and needed to have mod racing at the local level to get ready. Forced the race directors to have the 13.5 boosted class and convinced all the drivers that showed that 13.5 boosted was all that would run than night. Long story short, we went through 50 drivers in 12 months and only about 5 still show up to race. And that wasn't the first time he destroyed a good thing for us. He was part of the On-Point program. I am not going to do the same thing to our guys. I am not efficient with the mod car and want to improve it. So I just practice it on the large track available on Wed night and Sat. I am also old enough that I have already done everything I will ever do in this so just running the car against the clock, myself and the track is enough fun for me. I will race the 17.5 car with our guys so they have enough to race and have a mark to judge against. I help the others when I can with parts they can not get at the hobby store and advice when they ask. I did the loaner program for awhile, but that driver eventually left 1/12 for TC.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
If I recall correctly, the ROAR-approved version doesn't have this feature (if that is important to you). Apparently the code to do this was located in the commutation algorithm, and added just enough processing time to push the delay past the limit of 10us.
Are you sure vers 4.1 is not ok, because it is listed as approved on the ROAR site ?
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by waltss2k View Post
Thinking about trying the Lola over the Black Art or the new Toyota. Will that make a huge difference since I'm running the In line Xti.
Just painted up one of each for this Friday night. I will let you know then.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Are you sure vers 4.1 is not ok, because it is listed as approved on the ROAR site ?
4.1-140419A is the approved version, as indicated on the ROAR web site. If it has the wire-swap feature, then I didn't recall correctly. So now I'm wondering which ESC I was thinking of...

EDIT: My memory was only partially correct. The wire swap feature is present in the approved version. The engineers at ORCA made a slight change to version 4.0 to bring it into compliance, thus 4.1 was born. Not that this really concerns anyone except me, and then mostly for my failing memory!

Last edited by howardcano; 03-17-2015 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
4.1-140419A is the approved version, as indicated on the ROAR web site. If it has the wire-swap feature, then I didn't recall correctly. So now I'm wondering which ESC I was thinking of...
There is also the VX3 with vers 4.3

Apologies for sidetracking this thread

Here's a pic to stay on topic

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Old 03-16-2015, 07:43 PM
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hey guys what sort of servo do I need for one of these cars? micro?

I usually run a Savox 1257 tg in my RC10 so looking for something similar quality.

Also are there any true benefits from running a dedicated 1s esc like the Hobbywing 120A V3.1?

Thanks v much for your help
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