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Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!

Old 01-28-2015, 04:30 AM
  #1651  
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Darn Howard, you beat me to it. I was going to suggest raising the rear roll center. My thought was raising the rear roll center meant raising the center pivot ball in the rear plus all of the links. The effect would be to shorten the distance of the thrust line of the rear of the car giving a smaller torque that forces the front of the pod towards the carpet. I did that on the IRS RugRat several years ago to fix a problem of lifting the rear inside tire. Worked on that car.

But I see that Brian has said there are better ways. But following your train of thought, using the shorter upper and lower pod plates available on the original XTi, you could get a steeper angle of the line so it would pass over the CG and stop the squat. Agree?
Yes, that would give more anti-squat. The disadvantage, of course, is that it changes many other things that we might not want to change.

Here's a tidbit that you might find interesting. It's one way to be able to adjust the anti-squat independently from other parameters:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11499379-post38662.html
Although this particular chassis is not an Xti, I'm sure it could be done to almost any traditional link car.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:56 AM
  #1652  
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Just a quick note, we had 4 cars in stock 12 last night racing the lilac stripe spec tires. Dare I say it: I loved the way the cars raced! I tq/won with them. 2 heats and a main, 24 minutes, all enjoyable. The stripes seem to fast lap like race sets, but have a little more fade. All the cars acted the same way. I cut them 41.5/42.5 and got 2 full race nights out of them, but I think the fronts are done now. 48 minutes plus practice time... not too shabby.

Soap box now slid under the desk.....
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:03 AM
  #1653  
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question for Brian.......are you running your worlds car with an extra small front mounted servo? or with the servo mounted in the more traditional behind-the-tierods position?
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Old 01-29-2015, 02:27 PM
  #1654  
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Parts arrived today to convert my Xi. Can someone with a WC confirm the out of the box setup?

I presume the following, will someone please let me know where I'm wrong:

FRONT:
.50 springs
5* dynamic blocks
2 shims back and one forward for static caster (6*?)
-1* camber
1* toe-out

REAR:
30 weight shock oil
Red center spring
.50 side springs - I'm still running the old colored springs. What is the closest?
30,000 weight in tubes
1mm pod droop

Also going to try out some new tires. I've been running the CRC Greene Rears and Chrome fronts and continue to be faster on Xceed Carpet medium fronts and rears. Everyone is raving about the Blues, so I decided to get some. I will have a choice of Greene or Blue rears and Blue or Double Blue fronts. We run 17.5 blinky on an old dirty rug that is low to medium grip and very small and tight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ObEpb9KJJA

What's a good starting combo?


Thanks,
Chad
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:31 PM
  #1655  
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
question for Brian.......are you running your worlds car with an extra small front mounted servo? or with the servo mounted in the more traditional behind-the-tierods position?
Pic's are worth a 1000 words, right?
Attached Thumbnails Team CRC Xti 1/12th Scale!!-img_1122.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:47 PM
  #1656  
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Originally Posted by biz77 View Post
Parts arrived today to convert my Xi. Can someone with a WC confirm the out of the box setup?

I presume the following, will someone please let me know where I'm wrong:

FRONT:
.50 springs
5* dynamic blocks
2 shims back and one forward for static caster (6*?)
-1* camber
1* toe-out

REAR:
30 weight shock oil
Red center spring
.50 side springs - I'm still running the old colored springs. What is the closest?
30,000 weight in tubes
1mm pod droop

Also going to try out some new tires. I've been running the CRC Greene Rears and Chrome fronts and continue to be faster on Xceed Carpet medium fronts and rears. Everyone is raving about the Blues, so I decided to get some. I will have a choice of Greene or Blue rears and Blue or Double Blue fronts. We run 17.5 blinky on an old dirty rug that is low to medium grip and very small and tight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ObEpb9KJJA

What's a good starting combo?


Thanks,
Chad
Chad, That youtube link was showing a lexan recycling factory were colored bits were being pulverized repeatably.

That is a small track my friend. You are going to need that car to hustle those corners rather then roll them.

Edit to your set up, I might suggest:
10* reactive blocks
green center spring
1.5 droop unless you push out on exit, then you are right to use 1.0.

IMO, side spring tension goes like this:
.45, blue, .50, white, .55, red, .60, green, purple they all mesh, none of the metric wire gauge match the colored.

Since you said dirty old carpet, I might suggest 2bl/blu and long soak the rears for 30+ minutes, 15 on the fronts. If it pushes too much, go to blu fronts.

I would practice when the Legends are not around, holy cow.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Chad, That youtube link was showing a lexan recycling factory were colored bits were being pulverized repeatably.

That is a small track my friend. You are going to need that car to hustle those corners rather then roll them.

Edit to your set up, I might suggest:
10* reactive blocks
green center spring
1.5 droop unless you push out on exit, then you are right to use 1.0.

IMO, side spring tension goes like this:
.45, blue, .50, white, .55, red, .60, green, purple they all mesh, none of the metric wire gauge match the colored.

Since you said dirty old carpet, I might suggest 2bl/blu and long soak the rears for 30+ minutes, 15 on the fronts. If it pushes too much, go to blu fronts.

I would practice when the Legends are not around, holy cow.
Thanks so much Brian. No one dares take a 1/12th scale out when there are Legends cars on the track. That's our Legends C-main drivers. Fortunately most of our other classes are better behaved.
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:32 PM
  #1658  
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
..................

Now comes the fun stuff. Start adding stiffer center springs. Stiffer center springs add more "on steering" by putting more weight on the front tires (and keeps the pod from collapsing). In one test, I kept installing stiffer center spring until I actually traction rolled the car on corner exit. Not entering, where most traction rolls occur, but on exit with the power on. I would not have believed it had I not done it.

So of course adding stiffer center springs will greatly impact off power steering too. It will immediately transfer weight to the front and can cause all kinds of steering issues. Possible remedies include: front springs, caster, camber, camber gain, compound, diameter, battery placement, toe out, king pin droop and of course drag brake. I am sure I left some other stuff out too.

................................................
I pulled this paragraph from several pages back to get a little more clarification. I have put your setup on my WC edition with as much equipment that I own. Must get a few more things to go to the extent that you did. I am now traction rolling at the apex of the corner. These are 90 degree or 180 degree corners and I am just getting back into the power. Is that what you meant when saying you traction rolled under power? If so, I am closer than ever.

Solutions you mentioned included king pin droop. Would you increase that or decrease that?
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Old 02-07-2015, 05:52 PM
  #1659  
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Pic's are worth a 1000 words, right?
Is that the stock shock mount?

What's that behind the receiver?
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:15 PM
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Behind the receiver is a team powers capacitor. It's a big, honking sucker. The shock mount is the optional slider.
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:25 PM
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Default too much pod droop ??

Per Brian's recommendation, I built up my new worlds car strictly per the kit's instructions. All went together really well......with the exception of one thing. When assembled per the kit instructions it appears that the fully extended shock is quite long.....yielding an excessive amount of pod droop. My solution was to substitute the longer of the 2 included ball cups on the end of the shock shaft and to move the shock/antenna mount one hole foreward. With that combo it was easy enough to achieve a relatively "normal" 1 MM of pod droop. My question for others (Brian or Brian, are you listening?) is this.....Since my bag of shock parts included 2 o-rings, is it perhaps preferable to use the "extra" o-ring as a spacer inside of the shock in order to shorten up the overall extended shock length? I'm thinking that maybe using the extra o-ring as a spacer inside of the shock just might allow the shock mount to be positioned in the rear-most position without providing too much pod droop.
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vafactor View Post
Per Brian's recommendation, I built up my new worlds car strictly per the kit's instructions. All went together really well......with the exception of one thing. When assembled per the kit instructions it appears that the fully extended shock is quite long.....yielding an excessive amount of pod droop. My solution was to substitute the longer of the 2 included ball cups on the end of the shock shaft and to move the shock/antenna mount one hole foreward. With that combo it was easy enough to achieve a relatively "normal" 1 MM of pod droop. My question for others (Brian or Brian, are you listening?) is this.....Since my bag of shock parts included 2 o-rings, is it perhaps preferable to use the "extra" o-ring as a spacer inside of the shock in order to shorten up the overall extended shock length? I'm thinking that maybe using the extra o-ring as a spacer inside of the shock just might allow the shock mount to be positioned in the rear-most position without providing too much pod droop.
All of the instructions from CRC show the extra o-ring inside the shock. I originally installed the antenna mount as the front shock mount in the most rearward holes with this length shock and all the spacing worked out.
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Old 02-07-2015, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
All of the instructions from CRC show the extra o-ring inside the shock. I originally installed the antenna mount as the front shock mount in the most rearward holes with this length shock and all the spacing worked out.
Thanks for the quick reply David. Please note however that the instruction sheets that came in my WC kit include a detailed and step-by-step verbal description of the shock assembly sequence along with a nice and very clear exploded diagram. Those instructions say to put only one o-ring under the bottom shock plug. There is no mention of using a second o-ring. Also, only one o-ring is shown in the exploded diagram, and that is the one that goes under the bottom shock plug. If indeed CRC intends for the second o-ring to go inside of the shock as a spacer, then perhaps an edit of the latest assembly instructions might be in order? I'm guessing that perhaps CRC may have discovered that the encore shock works better without an internal o-ring spacer? This is the reason for my question on the thread. Brian or Brian, can you please clarify? Internal spacer, or no internal spacer?
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Behind the receiver is a team powers capacitor. It's a big, honking sucker. The shock mount is the optional slider.
Why such a big heavy capacitor? I would think the stock 4 capacitors are a bit overkill already let alone that thing. Does it really help?
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:59 PM
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I put one in my spec 175 gt car and it made 0 difference in lap times. Maybe for mod?
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