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Old 03-11-2005, 03:57 AM   #1
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Default orion rush 13x2 running slow and hot

i'v posted this in the rookie forum, but i've been tipped to throw it in here too for some pro help on this issue. its an offroad car but its only about the motor. nothing to do with the car itself.


link to http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65787

.pictures

Quote:
new orion rush double bearing 13x2 is running slow and hot.
rc10b4 3300mha bat, futaba mc330cr esc, deans plugs, running fine previously on other 13x2 motors.

i got the car out for a spin and it was going fine, then it lost speed all of a sudden. swapped the batts, still the same. unmounted the 13x2 and ran it on the desk, and its top speed bounces low for a while and might jump high for a few secs then back again. esc is running cool.

comms seems to be clean, brushes arent black or chipped, came good again for a bit after rebuilding. but then dropped off again. the timing is zeroed and either direction seems to have no effect. the orion is notched so you cant screw up the timings btw.

electrics seems to be getting a some interference, but otherwise okay.

i'm about to change brushes, replace the cap, play with the spacers some more, and if still nothing, i'll be swapping the armature into a spare newish can and endbell (last 13x2 had a coil blow out).


so yer, help?!?! any tips or insight would be sweet.
its getting so hot its starts to smell. and i dont wanna do that too much so i dont toast the magnets.
many thanks for any input or ideas

Last edited by insane2k; 03-11-2005 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 03-11-2005, 04:43 AM   #2
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that comm is destroyed, a cut will fix the problem
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Old 03-11-2005, 04:46 AM   #3
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ahk, the pictures make it look a bit black, its more copper looking. when i get home i'll try and take a colour correct photo.

the comm hasnt even been running for a total of 5 mins yet and only on new brushes.
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Old 03-11-2005, 05:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by insane2k
ahk, the pictures make it look a bit black, its more copper looking. when i get home i'll try and take a colour correct photo.

the comm hasnt even been running for a total of 5 mins yet and only on new brushes.
Hello,

Sorry, not 100% clear to me yet... when's the last time you've trued the comm? Because new brushes on an old comm is even worse.

Procedure
- True it again
- Remove all the crud between the segments,
- Check that shimming is neither too loose nor too tight
- Check that bearings are ok
- Clean brushes if not shot, else replace
- break-in 3mn at zero timing
- Reassemble

and if it still runs like crap, then there's probably a short somewhere. Send it back!

Machine wounds are sometimes a very bad deal... It's usually worth getting a handwound motor, a little more expensive but way more reliable.

Good luck,
Paul
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Old 03-11-2005, 05:31 AM   #5
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sorry, its a NEW motor with a total of 5mins run time so far.
its actually the first word of the quote
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Old 03-11-2005, 05:44 AM   #6
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just wanted to be sure... beginners say funny things sometimes...

The procedure is still valid. True it and try again. most machine-wounds are not true straight out of the pack, and they're never "round" right after assembly. If it's still running abnormally bad, just send this one back and ask for a new one (there's probably a short in the windings). If they don't send you a new one, don't bother buying another machine-wound rotor.

I gave up on machine wounds. There's way too many lemons. Buy a previous generation, discounted, real race motor instead (If you can find a Reedy Ti, they're still great).

And don't make fun of people who are trying to help beginners...

Paul
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Old 03-11-2005, 06:39 AM   #7
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heh, cheers. your input is greatly thanked!
all i need is a lathe
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:00 AM   #8
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Thanks for the kind words

If you intend to run electric seriously, you might as well consider buying one right away... especially if running mod, even the "mild" ones. And since machine-wounds wear out even faster...

You can also check here:
http://search.ebay.com/lathe_Radio-C...2QQstrkwZlathe

Try to get one with a diamond bit (and be careful with it)

Or Find a good, used one at your track. It's one of the most often overseen RC investment. There's no point in running fancy batteries and dumping $200 on a charger if your motor runs like crap because it hasn't been trued regularly A good lathe will last you a lifetime of RC'ing... ask the folks who still have a Twister

cheers,
Paul
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:20 AM   #9
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Wouldn't a comm stick do the same job as a lathe? Not trying to be funny, just curious. Because it seems that when i clean my motors, the comm stick makes the arm nice and shiny like a lathe, just not as good as a lathe cut.
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:24 AM   #10
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Comm stick simply makes the comm cleaner. The lathe gives a true, smooth, round surface again.
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:03 AM   #11
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yer, my brother is really into racing too, so i'm going to try and talk him into going halves in a lathe. i'll pick up a comm stick too and see how it goes...

as for this motor, i'll try a different armature next, if it doesnt act like this then i will point to the comm as being the reason.

i'll check the sway in the armature too.. just i've had dirty comms before and it didnt going crazy like this.

i'll keep deducting things and keep posting what i find.


have you guys had the same symptoms as this with bad comms?
just seems odd with the way it jumps around in speed so much. many the springs are way to hard???
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Old 03-11-2005, 10:48 AM   #12
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I bought one of those RUSH motors for a beat around car once, it was slower than my old Roar 96 Stocker (that is before they were rebuildable) Those motors arn't worth the plastic they come in if you ask me. I have had decent experiences with the Trinity Speed Gems motors, but again just for a beat around car. A hand wound motor is worth every penny if your racing. A Lathe is nice too, I use a communal Twister Lathe thats probably 20 years old and still works great. If you can get your brother to go in halves you can pick up an integy lathe pretty cheap and it will do the job.
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