scooby61

iTrader: (1)

Might fit in there but if you hit anything the left steering post will probably hit the end bell. My tekin 2650 is 69 mm and only has about 2-3 mm clearance. Also the sensor wire is very close even though I rotated the front bell to swing it to the bottom.

puttekula

The Tekin buggy motor is max what u get in. Nothing more. Dunno the length

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I have the Orion 1/8 Motor in mine, and I had to put 1mm in washers between it and the mount to clear the front motor screws, but I'd say I have maybe 1mm clearance with the steering post at best, it's certainly a very tight fit.

Evo 13

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone had success modifying the motor mount space to fit a 75mm can in? There has to be a way to make it work.

scooby61

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much if you mod the mount to clear the steering post the motor output shafts will hit the battery box

TerribleTy

Are you running 4s or 6s? I'm getting one of these put together as well so I'm open to motor opinions. I want to run 4s.

scooby61

iTrader: (1)

My club track has a 4s limit, I have also used a bunch of titanium parts and cut out a lot of the extra plastic to save weight as this car comes out in stock form as kind of a pig when compared to the cars I run with. I'm running the 2650 stock spur and 17t pinion honestly I would run the 2050kv unless you have a large track with long straight.

TerribleTy

Thanks for the suggestion! I talked with Serpent and a few of my off road buddies and went with the LRP iX8 2200 combo. The same combo shown in the pictures of the kit on Serpent.com. I should have everything on Wednesday so I can get her built this week easy. I also have all the parts for the 2.0 conversion coming as well. I'm pretty excited to see how she does.

If any of you guys or gals do Facebook you should join the Serpent GT Onroad Electric group. Group was put together by Serpent as a way for everyone to talk about the chassis and share ideas. Link below!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/SerpentGTElectric/

pieter

iTrader: (4)

Looking for a GT roller nitro or electric

D.a.v.e

iTrader: (8)

I'll be interested in hearing about how the 2.0 bits do. Last year some nitro guys tried adding them without really noticing any improvement?

scooby61

iTrader: (1)

First race day of 2015 at my club track cobra gte took 1st in all 3 heats and the main.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Changed the rear suspension on my car last summer to use the 2.0 rear arms and dogbones. You don't really need the V3 rear axles and hubs, you can keep the stock V2 axles and hubs, just need the 98mm (I think it was) dogbones. Car felt more planted in the rear. But the track I ran at was low to medium grip, so maybe I felt the improvement more than someone running on a prepared, smooth, high grip track.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I run the V2 rear in mine certainly helps, the LRP combo is nice but I found it very crowded, and really the motor is too large and too much torque for a 1/8 GTe (the Orion VST2 2100 was even worse you add an extra 100-150 grams for torque you can't use)

Trying out an Xerun 120A SCT Pro ESC / 4068 2250kv motor now.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

I really like the Hobbyking 2400kv motor I ran last summer. Hard to beat for the price, and it's plenty fast. In my RX8 Gen2, I have the current limiting turned down to 25, and it could still light up all four tires. If I get to run it this summer, I'm going to turn it down more, until it barely spins the tires when I punch it.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Interestingly enough, the RTR version comes with all the 2.0 rear suspension stuff on it already. Chicky said at one time that the race kits were eventually all going to have the 2.0 parts as well. Dunno if they come that way yet or not.