Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Agreed. A lot of stuff out there is really good now days. I personally use a HPI Flux Pro ESC which is basically a Hobbywing XERUN V3. Works great, highly adjustable and very smooth. For motors and batteries I run Thunder Power. Both are very good quality products but that doesn't mean that they are the only ones. Check into Reedy and LRP products as well.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I'm not sure of the specifics of your question as I only use the official HB parts. I know that Juan had used the Tamiya DCJ's successfully with some minor modifications. If you go back a page or two he outlines how he did it.

Nipple

iTrader: (1)

Can someone please kindly advise me what are the effects when you increase/reduce the spacers at the two areas circled in red in the attached figure?

Ackerman and bump steer?

Many thanks!!!

ali_g

iTrader: (7)

u considered CSO before?

FLAT OUT

Hi Guys,
The XX has the 3 hole front hubs, on my old cyclone the hubs had 2 holes I think. Why the change to the 3 hole hubs?
Also what difference will it make to the handling if I use the middle hole on the front hubs instead of the 3rd hole ?? Thanks for you advise

Stefan-Hpi Uk

Hi,

Adding 'more' Ackerman shims changes the difference between the outside and inside wheel. So with more shims the inside wheel will turn "tighter" than the outside wheel.

Bump steer is the change in toe out when the suspension compresses. Generally I have found adding more shims under the steering knuckle can give more mid corner steering. Most noticeably on asphalt or bumpy tracks. i wouldnt run too many shims tho 0.5-1.5mm max. You can check your bump steer effect by placing the car on a set up station and checking the toe out and then take a reading with the suspension compressed. I find adding shims changes when the bump steer takes effect

I hope this helps

Stefan C

Stefan-Hpi Uk

Just a quick note to those considering the Roche mount. When you run the belt tensioner you will need to countersink the hole and use a flat head screw otherwise the button head screw catches on the mount :-).

Stefan-Hpi Uk

You should notice the cars steering is smoother and less aggressive. The pickup point in the 3rd hole is further back which results in a smoother steering response. You sacrifice total achievable lock but this isn't an issue with the new tcxx longer cranks

Fragglerock

Hi

What belt are you using with the 18t on the layshaft ??? It dosent fell like it can be tight enough with the stock ones

Thanks

AGNO

Yes, I noticed too.

It can also eliminate the upper tensor belt, there is also the low tensioner

GregDP

Hi All

Is it possible, without too many new parts, to use a TCXX chassis with TCX fittings as I am finding it hard to find a new narrow TCX chassis. Is it just:

- TCXX chassis
- +2mm steering arms (HPI-68824)

Additional to this can I fit the new TCXX one piece spur holder (HPI-68273), with matching pulleys of course, on the existing TCX motor mounts i.e. are the spacings the same as the kit TCX ones?

Appreciate you knowledgable peoples help.

Cheers.

SuperFastSnail

iTrader: (82)

Yes to all, if you want you can also order the gear diffs and have almost the same car. There are some other minor differences but it is basically the same car.

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

so my tcx with a narrow chassis and lowered shock towers with gear diff does not much have difference with the current xx chassis?

Gtr r34 m-spec

iTrader: (29)

The motor mount on the tcxx is 2mm further out, which I don't think they were using at the worlds.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Yup.