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Old 01-10-2013, 03:38 AM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
It's because your car is "TCXYZ". Special factory edition!!
Yes, my car is "special factory" team Agno's!

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Old 01-10-2013, 04:05 AM
  #647  
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Let us not forget the excellent result of Oliver Franke with TCXX, wins the first round European ETS, in stock class category spec motor 13.5 SP V3 and spec ESC CIRTIX

TCXX is an excellent car, even for stock class
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:11 AM
  #648  
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So, who's running the diff up front? What oil are you running, and what drive shafts are you using?

I've got a couple of diffs coming so I can convert the front of the car - but I'm a bit leery of running the rear (ultra-thin) drive shafts up front, so I'm curious if anyone is using other drive shafts (original aluminum ones with the special outdrives), the thin rear drive shafts, or aftermarket DCJ's...
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:09 AM
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Don't put the thin ones up front you'll ruin them in 1 run.

I used the TCX spool cup and steel driveshafts in the front of my TCXX, but I don't think they are an option if you want to use a gear diff.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:20 PM
  #650  
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Hey All,

For those of you that have been waiting for my high traction carpet setup, I'm still working on it. I'll be testing all this next weekend to work some more bugs out of it. I struggled a little bit last time out, so I'll be taking a different direction. So far the performance of the car is promising though .

-Korey
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:41 PM
  #651  
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Hey,

This may be a stupid question and I have missed a post on this, but does anyone know how to mount a savox servo in the tcxx with the alloy post as I dont see them listed in the manual.

Many Thanks

James
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:08 AM
  #652  
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I remember the posts go on the opposite side to a KO servo, if that makes sense. Sorry can't remember which goes where lol.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:42 AM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by cyclonetog View Post
I remember the posts go on the opposite side to a KO servo, if that makes sense. Sorry can't remember which goes where lol.
Many Thanks Cyclonetog
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:44 PM
  #654  
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Well, I've just installed a diff in my TCXX stock car - 500K oil, with the old pro-4 steel dog bones. I had to grind out the outdrives so the pro-4 pins would fit; that was easy to do. To ensure that the edges of the outdrive 'teeth' remained square, I tapes some sandpaper to a thin steel ruler, and rubbed the outdrive teeth on the sandpaper, making sure I ground each side evenly. Only took about 5 minutes per outdrive to get them to fit.

No more 'clicking' sounds from the car, since I'm no longer using the 'loose' spool. We'll see how it performs on Friday when I take it to the track.

500k in the diff *may* be too light; the last time I ran a diff in the front was on my TC6, and we filled that diff with blue-tac. It was quite a bit stiffer. I know that Hudy has released 1M weight diff oil, but I think blue-tac may be ticket.

Time will tell!
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:02 PM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by Dog Bone View Post
Well, I've just installed a diff in my TCXX stock car - 500K oil, with the old pro-4 steel dog bones. I had to grind out the outdrives so the pro-4 pins would fit; that was easy to do. To ensure that the edges of the outdrive 'teeth' remained square, I tapes some sandpaper to a thin steel ruler, and rubbed the outdrive teeth on the sandpaper, making sure I ground each side evenly. Only took about 5 minutes per outdrive to get them to fit.

No more 'clicking' sounds from the car, since I'm no longer using the 'loose' spool. We'll see how it performs on Friday when I take it to the track.

500k in the diff *may* be too light; the last time I ran a diff in the front was on my TC6, and we filled that diff with blue-tac. It was quite a bit stiffer. I know that Hudy has released 1M weight diff oil, but I think blue-tac may be ticket.

Time will tell!
there is also 2.5 million diff oil
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:46 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
there is also 2.5 million diff oil
Let me just chime in here to make sure one thing.

Our bevel gears (both bigger and smaller one) in side of the gear diff are made of plastic. Those are not designed to use with super heavy putty or oil so they might not be able to hold it. Please be carefull with them when you use the gear diff up front especially for the pin slot on the bigger bevel gear as usually that's the part that gets most stress from the load.

We are also testing some new stuffs to use for front diff. But i wanted to make sure with everyone until those stuffs become available.

Please don't go too heavy on front gear diff, or check the gears (especially for the pin-slot!) very often if you need to go really heavy on oli/putty.

Thanks

Hiro Kasuya
hpi/HB
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:24 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by Dog Bone View Post
Well, I've just installed a diff in my TCXX stock car - 500K oil, with the old pro-4 steel dog bones. I had to grind out the outdrives so the pro-4 pins would fit; that was easy to do. To ensure that the edges of the outdrive 'teeth' remained square, I tapes some sandpaper to a thin steel ruler, and rubbed the outdrive teeth on the sandpaper, making sure I ground each side evenly. Only took about 5 minutes per outdrive to get them to fit.

No more 'clicking' sounds from the car, since I'm no longer using the 'loose' spool. We'll see how it performs on Friday when I take it to the track.

500k in the diff *may* be too light; the last time I ran a diff in the front was on my TC6, and we filled that diff with blue-tac. It was quite a bit stiffer. I know that Hudy has released 1M weight diff oil, but I think blue-tac may be ticket.

Time will tell!
So that you are aware, for any car that uses a spool and standard drive shafts there will be chatter. It's only after you use DCJ's with a spool that this chatter goes away. I've heard that it's less pronouced when running standard drive shafts with a gear diff as well but I don't have 1st hand knowledge of this since I always run DCJ's but I assume it to be true based upon what you reported. Our spool is designed to be loose to dissipate some of the energy that causes chatter when running it with standard drive shafts.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:00 PM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
So that you are aware, for any car that uses a spool and standard drive shafts there will be chatter. It's only after you use DCJ's with a spool that this chatter goes away. I've heard that it's less pronouced when running standard drive shafts with a gear diff as well but I don't have 1st hand knowledge of this since I always run DCJ's but I assume it to be true based upon what you reported. Our spool is designed to be loose to dissipate some of the energy that causes chatter when running it with standard drive shafts.
Yup, I got ya. I wasn't a fan of the looser front spool, but I understand why it was done. My real issue is with the aluminum front dog bones - I think I twisted the ball-ends off 3-4 of them. I did have a bunch of the older steel drive shafts, but I had to (as I originally mentioned) widen the slot on the outdrives so the pin would fit.

My initial attempts at widening the slot were poor at best - I used a dremmel, and it was very difficult to keep the edges flat. What ended up happening was that the drive shafts worked great for the first few race days, but because the drive shaft pins were resting on a smaller (curved) surface area, they would wear into the outdrives, which would cause all sorts of issues.

Grinding the outdrives on a flat surface has resulted in a practically flat surface for the pins to ride on, so I expect this modification to last much longer.

This really has nothing to do with running a diff up front :-)

I unfortunately can't afford to run the HB DCJ's, especially considering that they *look* to be non-maintainable. I would cringe and probably cry if I hit a board, bending the drive shaft. Not to mention, I would have to shell out close to $200 for the two cars, and I just can't justify that. There is at least one brand of DCJ's that are more affordable (Arrowmax), but I'm not sure of the quality.

I'll try the diff with my modifications - we'll see how it goes.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:50 PM
  #659  
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Guy any ideas on settling the rear of the car down.. using Andy Moore setup but with narrow rear sway bar and Standard 5mm front spacers.

Car has allot of steering but tends to unload at the end of corners or through a chicane in the rear of the car making it hard to get on power.

Would pink 4mm spacers with .5mm shim in the front help with this and the wider sway bar copper in the rear or would i be making it worse?

Have tried drop and moving the shocks but its slowing the car and not really fixing the problem.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:22 AM
  #660  
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Your car is working the way Andy likes his car to work, it is hard to drive but fast and he is that good.
Changing to the wider real roll bar will help, as would going up a spring rate in the rear or stand the rear shock up one.
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