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Old 12-31-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
What kind of setup changes do you TCXX racers actually do when the grip gets higher throughout the day?

My car is usually good in the morning and afternoon. But late afternoon when the track cools down and grip goes up my car is really planted and doesnt want to turn. Quick setting changes I normally do is either change rear toe blocks or stand up the rear shock 1 hole.

Does anyone have any advice for other quick changes to cope with track conditions.
What tires and saucing technique are you doing? Do you change it at all throughout the day?
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
What tires and saucing technique are you doing? Do you change it at all throughout the day?
Sorex 36R and using FXII just to clean the tires. By the end of the day the car just feels unresponsive, doesnt have quick direction changes

Last edited by goots; 12-31-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
I bought recently a used tcx with narrow chassis and lowered front and rear shock mounts, question is: would you rather base your set up with the old tcx with the wider chassis or base it on the tcxx. TNX
TCX setup. The TCXX chassis has different flex characteristics and steering rack arc. A lot of the TCX setups posted will be using the parts you have fitted anyway.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
What kind of setup changes do you TCXX racers actually do when the grip gets higher throughout the day?

My car is usually good in the morning and afternoon. But late afternoon when the track cools down and grip goes up my car is really planted and doesnt want to turn. Quick setting changes I normally do is either change rear toe blocks or stand up the rear shock 1 hole.

Does anyone have any advice for other quick changes to cope with track conditions.
Originally Posted by goots View Post
Sorex 36R and using FXII just to clean the tires. By the end of the day the car just feels unresponsive, doesnt have quick direction changes
Please post your entire setup. I'm assuming you are running on asphalt yes?
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Please post your entire setup. I'm assuming you are running on asphalt yes?
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
Am I seeing this correctly? 3 deg toe block for FF and -0.5 FR? You forgot to fill out your inner camber link position, wheelbase...
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
My initial thoughts when looking at this setup is the setup is very "stiff". The shocks are stood up one more hole than I would normally run, the roll centers are higher, oil that might be a little light and if I'm reading it correctly... A ton of arm sweep up front.

All of these things look like they would work the tires really hard, even in stock. IF you are truly running that much arm sweep, it might just be outside the normal operating range.

Are you mainly having problems with initial turn in upon entry into the corner? Or just overall steering?

-Korey
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:13 PM
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Can someone answer a couple of questions I have
1) what length dog bones come standard with the TCXX?
2) why are so many people using the tamiya rear uprights?
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
My initial thoughts when looking at this setup is the setup is very "stiff". The shocks are stood up one more hole than I would normally run, the roll centers are higher, oil that might be a little light and if I'm reading it correctly... A ton of arm sweep up front.

All of these things look like they would work the tires really hard, even in stock. IF you are truly running that much arm sweep, it might just be outside the normal operating range.

Are you mainly having problems with initial turn in upon entry into the corner? Or just overall steering?

-Korey
Actually no problems with steering I usually run 2.0block FF. Turns very well and agressively. Its just the car feels slow rolling side to side.
Practice run after raceday. I'm the white car. This run is where I tried the crazy armsweep. Fast twitchy steering is what I got out of it.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bukil View Post
Am I seeing this correctly? 3 deg toe block for FF and -0.5 FR? You forgot to fill out your inner camber link position, wheelbase...
yup. I saw the setup a while ago where someone used it. I figure just try it out and see what it does.

I didnt fill out the other settings because I usually keep them stock
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
yup. I saw the setup a while ago where someone used it. I figure just try it out and see what it does.

I didnt fill out the other settings because I usually keep them stock
Have you tried shortening your camber links? It gives you quicker transition movement from side to side. It has something to do with roll speed.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bukil View Post
Have you tried shortening your camber links? It gives you quicker transition movement from side to side. It has something to do with roll speed.
front and rear length? or are you talking about the height of the camber links
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
front and rear length? or are you talking about the height of the camber links
Length. I don't know if it's for both. The sheet wasn't filled out completely. Try both.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Can someone answer a couple of questions I have
1) what length dog bones come standard with the TCXX?
2) why are so many people using the tamiya rear uprights?
?
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
?
Hey Juan,

1.) 44mm in length. While the old car used 44mm in the rear, and the cyclone used 44mm as well.. These have a smaller cross pin (2mm, just like Tamiya). Make sure to use the current driveshaft bones with the TCXX. If you have some spares around of the older stuff, you can change to the older spool cups, and use the older blades to convert the car over I think.

2.) Tamiya rear hub carriers are a useful tuning aid. When using the outer hole on the hub carrier, it falls right in between the standard mounting hols on the HB hub carrier.
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