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Old 01-19-2014, 07:40 AM
  #1486  
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Originally Posted by Chrisgt2 View Post
I wouldn't call it grinding, you're just taking the square edge off so the barrel of the dcj doesn't rub it when it flexes.

The pin is 2mm
Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:52 AM
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No problem!

I ordered my Tamiya shafts from reflex racing, they were actually out of stock so they sent me a different set that they claim is their own version they have assembled and are stronger. The bone says Sakura on it and the whole assembly is held together with clips just like the Tamiya. I'll remove one and take a pic
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:19 AM
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Chrisgt2 View Post
Any chance you take a picture of it mounted?
And show which are the areas I need to trim.

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Old 01-19-2014, 08:54 AM
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Here's a c-Hub marked with silver sharpie. Just need to round those edges as needed. The steering knuckles may or may not need shaved as well.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Chrisgt2 View Post


Here's a c-Hub marked with silver sharpie. Just need to round those edges as needed. The steering knuckles may or may not need shaved as well.
Noted with thanks!
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:12 PM
  #1492  
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-Who all is running the +2mm topdeck mod?

-Are you using the 2.0 or the 2.5mm topdeck?

-What results have you found using this mod?

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
-Who all is running the +2mm topdeck mod?

-Are you using the 2.0 or the 2.5mm topdeck?

-What results have you found using this mod?

Thanks
what is the +2mm topdeck mod?
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
We have used this or similar setups at variety of track conditions/sizes. With the narrower rear setup, we find it provides both greater overall traction and nimble weight transfer side to side together.

We usually stand up the shocks when the car need some more suspension regitity in the rear, or just simply go back to original rear suspension width.

When you try this, please don't forget that you need to re-set the camber, sway bar rods (re-adjust the position and height) as the whole rear end will move toward inner.

Hope it helps some
Thanks,

Hiro
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Hiro,
I ran this set up a couple of weeks ago and it made a big differance in the way my car handled. I was finally able to keep up with the leaders and took the A-main (something I haven't done in a while). Thanks again for sharing the set up!
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
what is the +2mm topdeck mod?
Raising the topdeck 2mm with shims so it's only attached at the bulkheads. Not by the 4 screws at the layshaft. You do have to use low-profile screws and a brace under the topdeck to keep the layshaft in place. It moves the flex point back and provides more overall flex. Like the BD7 and 418.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies TCXX-td-mod.jpg  
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
Raising the topdeck 2mm with shims so it's only attached at the bulkheads. Not by the 4 screws at the layshaft. You do have to use low-profile screws and a brace under the topdeck to keep the layshaft in place. It moves the flex point back and provides more overall flex. Like the BD7 and 418.
What do you use for the brace to hold the layshaft in place?
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by HD Racer View Post
What do you use for the brace to hold the layshaft in place?
I made two flat spacers of some scrap aluminum(0.5mm thick) I had sitting around. I'm not sure what the Team drivers were using. Not much talk these days on the forums about the TCXX.

I currently have the rear layshaft screws installed to limit the flex a bit. The car is a real noodle without any screws installed. Which may be the ticket in certain conditions. I plan to test all options soon.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
I made two flat spacers of some scrap aluminum(0.5mm thick) I had sitting around. I'm not sure what the Team drivers were using. Not much talk these days on the forums about the TCXX.

I currently have the rear layshaft screws installed to limit the flex a bit. The car is a real noodle without any screws installed. Which may be the ticket in certain conditions. I plan to test all options soon.
Thanks for the info and the quick reply!
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by HD Racer View Post
Hiro,
I ran this set up a couple of weeks ago and it made a big differance in the way my car handled. I was finally able to keep up with the leaders and took the A-main (something I haven't done in a while). Thanks again for sharing the set up!
Hi HD Racer,

That's great to hear that the car worked well for you!
I hope you will be able to win next time!!

Hiro
hpi/HB
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chrisgt2 View Post
No problem!

I ordered my Tamiya shafts from reflex racing, they were actually out of stock so they sent me a different set that they claim is their own version they have assembled and are stronger. The bone says Sakura on it and the whole assembly is held together with clips just like the Tamiya. I'll remove one and take a pic
Do you have the part number of the one you recieved?
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