303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

I would remove the front droop too, that could cause the front end to dive in 180's

rossb

I rewired it.

• TQ 16 AWG for all wires.
• TQ sensor wire.
• Smaller transponder - RC4 Hybrid.
• Removed the servo extension wire I was using for my old transponder (it allowed me to easily swap the transponder to another car).
• Removed the front bulkheads and found them to be flat on my setup board.
• Changed the front shims under the bulkheads to get 3mm of front ride height. It is even on both sides.
• Disassembled the rear pod and checked the rear bulkheads. Rebuilt the pod flat on my setup board.
• The rear pod has 3mm of height on both sides with 1mm of droop.
• The car is flat on my MIP tweak station.

I think it is in better shape now and I lost 29g of weight.

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

I am looking for a 12r5.2 complete shock. Does anyone know if associated sells it complete or am going to have to piece one together?

is the right part? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...CS-Micro-Shock

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey Jerry,

Use this with either a blue or Silver Associated spring 27.5 to 30wt Oil

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lete-Shock-Kit

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey rossb,

Car looks better. But please do something with those chunked tires Lol...

Jerry P

iTrader: (44)

Thanks just ordered the shock set i found it after i posted. I need to get springs too..

ClayRacer

Hi Guys, would just like some quick advice to get started.

I have almost done building my 12R5.2 and would like to start with 17.5t on 1s With Speedmind foam tyres.

I will be running on a large out door asphalt track. Can any one suggest a starting point for Pinion and Spur selection (I only have the spur included in the kit right now so I guess I will need to change that?)

Thanks!

bigcracing

iTrader: (32)

Has any body tried the 12R5.2 alter ego style with the battery turned 90 degrees old school. it seems to me the car would be balanced side to side better.

Just a thought

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Does making the rear wheel width wider make the rear of the car feel less stable. I feel that the rear of my car is too connected and bogging my corner speed and motor down mid corner. I am not sure what you would call this or if it is just a common effect with foam tires. It just appears that my car is not ripping out of corner like some other guys.
So I am just looking for some setup changes that I could try to see if it will help.

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

And center the servo horn

rosko

On my 12 r5.2 i pit 2mm shim behind my castor blk to lenghthen my upper a arm , my question is does anyome know of a carbon brace that will fit

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hello there,


You'll need the smaller length carbon brace off of the older version 12r5

Hope this helps
Mike

sdunnmcp

I would increase castor. I am also assuming you are running the correct tires for your class. Increasing castor increases camber gain and increases weight jacking, which make the rear end feel like it is coming around. Here is what I suggest:
17.5 Blinky - Blue Rear and Black or Gray front, if high bite Green rear.
13.5 - Blinky Blue rear and Team Purple front.
Mod - longer conversation

If you are running the tire combo above then set castor at 4-5 degrees and go up or down from there. If you get to 6 degrees of castor something is probably wrong with the car.
Hope this helps.
Steve Dunn
Pro One R/C

valk

iTrader: (13)

Switched out my center shocks last night for tc5 shocks ive had sitting around. This allows me to have 4 prebuilt center shocks and 4 side shocks between my 2 5.1 lipo cars.

Quedtion though; how do the center shock springrates compare to touring car springs? I was running gold ae center and sides for the 13.5 car and blue center black sides for the mod car. Now that im using a parger bore center shock, what kind of rates should i look for? I put ae green in the mod car and serpent white in the stock which i think are in the 11-13lb range.
Gonna pick up some ride springs 2-3nm ratings but not sure where to start.
I need those springs for the touring cars anyway, but typically nothing lower than 2.5nm.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

He does not need to change this per se. Let me clarify, as long as the links are parallel to the chassis (flat/no angle). If not, then use the Kimbrough mid.