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Associated RC 12 R5.2

Old 01-13-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
Cut at 43/41!!!!! Dialed.
+1
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tutankhamen View Post
+1
Coming from the guy who is tearing it up at the moment I will take the +1...
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lohan View Post
I am thinking of upgrading my R5.1, and there are a few options:

1. get the associated in line upgrade kit;
2. get the british 'team doris chassis'
3. Get the CEFX Griffin
4. Get the On Point Lipo chassis
5. Get the ON POINT kit

tell me your thoughts
I have driven with Associated for a couple of years, Now have the On-Point. Never had any better, I really like the On-Point. It's much stronger then the Associated and Faster.!!

Regards Robert
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:33 AM
  #289  
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Anyone having a balance issue with the car? I am running a HW 1s with the stock 2 cap board, a small Futaba RX, a Spektrum H5020G servo and an old AMB trans on center. No booster or battery. Since the pic was taken I have switched to Deans 16G wire for the motor to take more weight off the right side.

My stuff is light but the electronics side is just a touch heavy. I end up having 1.5 turns more on the electronics side side spring and I think that may be the cause of a mid race hooking to the left pushing to the right problem I am having.

I am going to move my transponder to the left of my servo, shorten all my wires (they are bundled between my RX and battery now) and maybe go to the smallest Futaba RX that is a touch smaller and a couple grams lighter.

I have swapped and replaced, front and side springs, my pod/side links are moving free and my tires are dead even diameter left to right.

Any other suggestions? Are the side springs perches even left to right on your cars after tweaking?

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Old 01-17-2013, 07:38 AM
  #290  
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I had the opposite issue that my electronics side was too light and had to add 21g to that side. My chassis is level with both side nearly identical. Total weight is 795g.

I'm using a Tekin RS, Spektrum SR3500, Trinity LiFe 2 cell, Futata 9650 and a MyLaps PT. and Reedy 1S.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:47 AM
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Thanks. I am at 775g now. That's weird that we are at the same weight without your 21g of added weight and our cars are balancing differently.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Thanks. I am at 775g now. That's weird that we are at the same weight without your 21g of added weight and our cars are balancing differently.
Can you flip the ESC 180' on the chassis so the wires are inboard?
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:33 AM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by madjack View Post
Can you flip the ESC 180' on the chassis so the wires are inboard?
plus:
1. make sure servo is centered in chassis, looks like it may be a little right
2. move transponder towards left
3. make sure battery is as far left as possible.
4. move switch towards left of car

My side spring perches are not even, however that should have little to do with the weight balance. Only check the weight balance on balancing pins. If you mean setting the tweak, as long as everything else is straight, just set the tweak so it is correct, and the car will drive correctly
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by madjack View Post
Can you flip the ESC 180' on the chassis so the wires are inboard?


I thought about that. Right now the case of the ESC is right next to the battery. If I flip it 180 degrees the main mass of the ESC will be 5mm further away from from the battery because of the PCB for the solder posts that extends away from the case. The balance effect will either be a wash because the wires are inboard or it will make the problem worse.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
plus:
1. make sure servo is centered in chassis, looks like it may be a little right
2. move transponder towards left
3. make sure battery is as far left as possible.
4. move switch towards left of car

My side spring perches are not even, however that should have little to do with the weight balance. Only check the weight balance on balancing pins. If you mean setting the tweak, as long as everything else is straight, just set the tweak so it is correct, and the car will drive correctly
Thanks, I will try that tonight.

If a car is perfect balanced left to right, using 16g flexy wire, a super flexy sensor wire and new springs why wouldn't the side spring perches be even?

This is how I checked the balance.

I made a jig to hold the car up, inverted, on pointed pins, on the center line of the chassis. I put a bubble level across the center of the chassis. This is far more accurate than right side up on balancing balls or pins.

I check the rear pod ready to run with no wires apart from the car. This means completely ready to run with motor, axle, tires, pinion. This is perfect with a D3.5 on my car.

I check the main chassis completely read to run without motor wires. My main chassis is a little heavy on the electronics side. I thought it was not significant so I didn't sweat it.

I check the complete car wired and ready to run. Its just a touch heavy on the electronics side.

I usually don't get so OCD about this stuff but my 12R5.2 is hooking and pushing when the tweak is perfect (checked visually, on a tweak station and with a knife and coins). I have been running 1/12 for a long time and this is the first time I have had a hard time resolving a problem like this.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:43 AM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Thanks, I will try that tonight.

If a car is perfect balanced left to right, using 16g flexy wire, a super flexy sensor wire and new springs why wouldn't the side spring perches be even?

This is how I checked the balance.

I made a jig to hold the car up, inverted, on pointed pins, on the center line of the chassis. I put a bubble level across the center of the chassis. This is far more accurate than right side up on balancing balls or pins.

I check the rear pod ready to run with no wires apart from the car. This means completely ready to run with motor, axle, tires, pinion. This is perfect with a D3.5 on my car.

I check the main chassis completely read to run without motor wires. My main chassis is a little heavy on the electronics side. I thought it was not significant so I didn't sweat it.

I check the complete car wired and ready to run. Its just a touch heavy on the electronics side.

I usually don't get so OCD about this stuff but my 12R5.2 is hooking and pushing when the tweak is perfect (checked visually, on a tweak station and with a knife and coins). I have been running 1/12 for a long time and this is the first time I have had a hard time resolving a problem like this.
Check tires if you haven't already.
Make sure your rear axle is spaced correctly by measuring from the center line of the car to the wheels.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:56 AM
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I dont have a great answer for that, but the way my car is that is the case. I stopped worrying about it, cause my car drives awesome like that Its not like mine are very far off, but they are some.

Beyond that I would double check that everything in the front end moves freely, and that the front end springs are the same length, and that all the droop is shimmed out of the front end (I needed like 5-6 shims for that)
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Check tires if you haven't already.
They are even. Both rears are 41.6mm and both fronts are 40.5mm. I have been running CRC tires. Interestingly enough although they are Magenta front and rear I checked the foam with a durometer and the rears I have are 35S and the fronts are 32S. That didn't help the hooking problem. I have some new tires on the way...

Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Make sure your rear axle is spaced correctly by measuring from the center line of the car to the wheels.
I will check this tonight. Thanks Rick!

I know this is the best car on the market. I will get this figured out. My 10R5.1 is on rails this should be too.

To all...I appreciate all of your help!
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:03 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I dont have a great answer for that, but the way my car is that is the case. I stopped worrying about it, cause my car drives awesome like that Its not like mine are very far off, but they are some.

Beyond that I would double check that everything in the front end moves freely, and that the front end springs are the same length, and that all the droop is shimmed out of the front end (I needed like 5-6 shims for that)
+1. Check the front end. Take the tires off, put it on a your flat board and with calipers confirm that the front axle height (space between board and axle) is the same left/right. The 5.2 front end builds much more consistently than the previous version, but if you've bounced it off the boards hard it could be tweaked. I noticed that on mine. I loosened the front end mounts (both bottom screws and side screws for arm), retightened, and it was all good.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:15 PM
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Gonna join the club pretty quick here. Have a 5.1 onpoint that has been working great! Just want a new car.
Suggestions for 17.5 boost setup? 96x36 varied layout though typically flowy.
Brand new crc carpet.

Since this ia he new thread, anyone recommend a setup for teh 5.1 onpoint for 10.5 boost? I kinda faught with it at wcics 4. Just left crc grey low/ black and rest if setup from 17.5 to it. Was ok, enough for the B but im sure it can be a LOT better.
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