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Associated RC 12 R5.2

Old 12-26-2012, 12:51 PM
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There is no good reason to run 20g wire over 16g. 16g is plenty flexible and certainly has less resistance (and the accompanying voltage losses) than 20g. Just look up the specs for the current carrying ability of 20g wire.

I run Deans or TQ 16 on my WGT where the speedo is close to the motor. On my 12R5.2 I run TQ 13g since the wires are longer, have a smooth line to the motor and thus will not affect tweak.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
There is no good reason to run 20g wire over 16g. 16g is plenty flexible and certainly has less resistance (and the accompanying voltage losses) than 20g. Just look up the specs for the current carrying ability of 20g wire.

I run Deans or TQ 16 on my WGT where the speedo is close to the motor. On my 12R5.2 I run TQ 13g since the wires are longer, have a smooth line to the motor and thus will not affect tweak.
Adrian,

Just giving options for the guy.

Steve Dunn
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sdunnmcp View Post
Adrian,

Just giving options for the guy.

Steve Dunn
Sorry, I didn't mean to come off that harsh. It my girlfriend's fault.

She got me this shirt for Christmas:
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:01 AM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
There is no good reason to run 20g wire over 16g. 16g is plenty flexible and certainly has less resistance (and the accompanying voltage losses) than 20g. Just look up the specs for the current carrying ability of 20g wire.

I run Deans or TQ 16 on my WGT where the speedo is close to the motor. On my 12R5.2 I run TQ 13g since the wires are longer, have a smooth line to the motor and thus will not affect tweak.
So in closing, 14g is fine?
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack View Post
So in closing, 14g is fine?
As long as it's flexible enough to keep the pod tweak free.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack View Post
So in closing, 14g is fine?
If you are running Stock, I would run 16g or 20g from TQ. The problem with anything larger is that it is very hard to keep it from tweeking the pod. In 1/12 Mod we run 13g because of the high current, but we have to check the wires frequently. Only use TQ as it is the most flexable and probably the best for our industry.

To find out if your wire is tweeking the pod, get the chassis balanced with everything soldered, then remove the wires from your motor and see if it is still balanced.

Hope this helps.

Steve Dunn
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:32 AM
  #247  
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If you are using the thunder power battery like this one that has the step down on the front how do you keep it from sliding under the front battery holder.

Thanks so much
Chris Cooper
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman View Post
If you are using the thunder power battery like this one that has the step down on the front how do you keep it from sliding under the front battery holder.

Thanks so much
Chris Cooper
I run shorter post which lowers the battery holder. I got the post from an On-Point racing chassis. Stormer Hobbies carries the parts for On-Point racing chassis'.

Jim
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:47 AM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by Budman View Post
If you are using the thunder power battery like this one that has the step down on the front how do you keep it from sliding under the front battery holder.

Thanks so much
Chris Cooper
Just securely tape it , I have the same packs
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:41 AM
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Hi,

I'm about to buy..two 1/12 pan cars. How is the wear on the Associated? I plan to keep them for quite a long time so I rather buy something durable.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman View Post
If you are using the thunder power battery like this one that has the step down on the front how do you keep it from sliding under the front battery holder.

Thanks so much
Chris Cooper
1. I don't run into stuff very often.

2. I use double sided tape, its thin tape with adhesive on both sides under the battery. Comes off clean and works great. Make sure its removable not the permanent kind.



3. The normal strapping tape through the chassis slots.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman View Post
If you are using the thunder power battery like this one that has the step down on the front how do you keep it from sliding under the front battery holder.

Thanks so much
Chris Cooper
I run a short cf block glued to the chassis in front of the battery.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Hi,

I'm about to buy..two 1/12 pan cars. How is the wear on the Associated? I plan to keep them for quite a long time so I rather buy something durable.
They are just as resistant to wear as the other cars, the only parts I've gone through are front springs and rear bearings.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jsinclair View Post
They are just as resistant to wear as the other cars, the only parts I've gone through are front springs and rear bearings.
Even plastics?

I'm running offroad in parallel and Xray plastics are far more durable than AE that's why I'm asking if it's also the case in pan cars.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Even plastics?

I'm running offroad in parallel and Xray plastics are far more durable than AE that's why I'm asking if it's also the case in pan cars.
AE front end is the most popular & durable

AE 12 cars are very strong, and as fast as anything
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