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Associated RC 12 R5.2

Old 11-29-2012, 09:02 AM
  #196  
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Default weight

What the obsession with weight, my car comes in at 758gms with out even trying.
Standard car, futaba servo S9650, LRP SXX V2 esc, amr light weight shell, jaco tyres all round 45mm rear and 43 front.Lipo is NVISION,Mini amb transponder.

total weight is 758gms.

LRP Cell weighs 8 gms more

Last edited by RCvetran; 11-30-2012 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:31 PM
  #197  
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My cars are at @770 Grams, and am not worried about it. I do use some alum screws but also run a reciever pack. I don't think that extra weight hurts you much if at all.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:45 AM
  #198  
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Just tickering between race day. Little to no impact to the standings on race day I'm sure.

I do have a performance related question regarding Parma/Jaco tires. For stock (17.5) what would be best tires for the rear (Orange, Yellow, Pink)? They all seem to be similar/same shore rating.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:10 AM
  #199  
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Default stock 17.5

Fastest option would be yellow/orange rears and black fronts.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:53 PM
  #200  
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I went through my car tonight and noticed I don't have the same ride height from left side vs right side. Has anyone else seen this and if so, how do you fix it?
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:26 AM
  #201  
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Default fix it

The fix is what is causing it,
1.odd size tyres
2.odd size ride height adjusters in back
3. sticky king pin ,
4.sticky top arm
5.car is tweaked
6.sticky centre rear pivot

body mounted in correctly, wires catching some where.List is endless .Let us know what the solution is and what caused it.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:35 PM
  #202  
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Can someone do me a favor and measure the dimensions of a completed RC12R5.2 shock? Diameter and length, in millimeters preferably.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:04 PM
  #203  
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Do you guys run any toe out or camber on the front end of the car? I don't see anything about it on the setup sheets.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:25 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Do you guys run any toe out or camber on the front end of the car? I don't see anything about it on the setup sheets.
0 toe, start with 1* of camber and adjust. I noticed my car was off a little L/R ride height, but it didnt seem to affect anything. Everything else was square, it drove square, and it was fast
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:33 AM
  #205  
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Default long top arm testing

Ran my car last night for the first time with the long top arm , after a number of runs with and without ,found my car best lap with 0.19 of a sec faster .So long arm it is.

rest of set up was

1. Side springs blue just preloaded
2.shock spring blue
3.shock oil 30,000wt
4.side tubes red medium spooge
5.1 droop
6.long top arm 2mm spacers with carbon brace fitted
7.front springs 020 and preloaded top of king pin 4 washers and 1 on top of steering arm.
8.caster block mid position
9.camber -1
10.ride height 3.8mm
11.Jaco magenta all round
12reedy 10.5 blinky 40 advance and 72mm rollout.
13.front wheels parallel . 0 toe
14.ARM shell
15.LRP SXX V2 with new board upgrade

large track 12mts wide and 30mts long,additive was speedtech Meduim grip
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:43 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Do you guys run any toe out or camber on the front end of the car? I don't see anything about it on the setup sheets.
The camber and toe settings are in the top left corner of the setup sheet under Front Suspension.
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:30 AM
  #207  
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I donT want this to turn into a "wiring thread" but I'm running a SXX with Novak booster, and mini receiver and I feel the car is packed. Can some of you start showing your cars. Just like to get some ideas. Thanks fellas
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:34 AM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by SuperFastSnail View Post
Hey everyone, I'm wandering if anyone has come across ordering a drill bit to make new holes into the carbon chassis fitting 3mm flat head screws. Any info on part no. or the bevel angle on the flat head screw is greatly appreciated. I tried looking it up on granger.com but lordy, it's taking me forever.
The metric flat head screw angle is 90 degrees. A simple way to drill the countersink is to use a countersink bit for wood. You can find these in many stores. one example is P/N 858 on this page
http://www.ptreeusa.com/drill_products.htm

I found that when you starting a hole in CF a small bit may wander and your hole ends up off center. You can correct with the larger bit but it's easier to start the hole with a center drill bit.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:37 AM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by RCvetran View Post
The fix is what is causing it,
1.odd size tyres
2.odd size ride height adjusters in back
3. sticky king pin ,
4.sticky top arm
5.car is tweaked
6.sticky centre rear pivot

body mounted in correctly, wires catching some where.List is endless .Let us know what the solution is and what caused it.
I think it was tires because I ran the car for 8 mins and measured again and it eventually evened out.

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
0 toe, start with 1* of camber and adjust. I noticed my car was off a little L/R ride height, but it didnt seem to affect anything. Everything else was square, it drove square, and it was fast
I didn't try it yesterday because I hadn't seen this post. I will try it next time.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:58 AM
  #210  
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I'm having trouble understanding how to build the tubes. I read the manual that says use the #6636 grease, but then the setup sheets have 20K silicon oil for the tubes. Which is it? I thought tubes used different grease, but can I use silicon oil here also?
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