Sensor Wire on Brushless motor - Sockets very tight
#1
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Sensor Wire on Brushless motor - Sockets very tight
I'm finding the JST ZH connectors on the ESC and Motors to be very tight fit.
So they are hard to get out when you want to swap a motor out etc.
Good for not coming loose during racing.
Bad for quick swaps without damaging the wire, or worse the socket in the ESC or Motor.
So couple of questions;
1) Is there a easy way to unplug these?
2) Is there a gender bender for the JST ZH connector?
This would work to me and have benefits, simple a sensor wire plugged into ESC at all times.
It then goes to one side of the gender bender (socket), the other side (another socket, hence the gender bender!) goes to a 2nd sensor wire where one end is always plugged into a Motor.
I can see Sensor wires as short as 50mm, so 2 of these would equal my current 100mm setup (+ maybe 5mm for the gender bender connector).
I'm doing a trial fit on the F104 v2 I'm building and there is not much space to start with inside this thing, so I have a short sensor wire but just now I know it will cause me a headache the minute I want to swap a motor out as the access to pull on the wire from connected to the motor is not great and I could damage the car and/or motor socket.
So they are hard to get out when you want to swap a motor out etc.
Good for not coming loose during racing.
Bad for quick swaps without damaging the wire, or worse the socket in the ESC or Motor.
So couple of questions;
1) Is there a easy way to unplug these?
2) Is there a gender bender for the JST ZH connector?
This would work to me and have benefits, simple a sensor wire plugged into ESC at all times.
It then goes to one side of the gender bender (socket), the other side (another socket, hence the gender bender!) goes to a 2nd sensor wire where one end is always plugged into a Motor.
I can see Sensor wires as short as 50mm, so 2 of these would equal my current 100mm setup (+ maybe 5mm for the gender bender connector).
I'm doing a trial fit on the F104 v2 I'm building and there is not much space to start with inside this thing, so I have a short sensor wire but just now I know it will cause me a headache the minute I want to swap a motor out as the access to pull on the wire from connected to the motor is not great and I could damage the car and/or motor socket.
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
The Novak Ballistic series motors have this same issue (benefit?). They don't come out easily unless you remove the end bell.
What if you simply left the sensor wire in the motor and have a wire in your spare motor? That way you can simply unplug from the ESC. You're right, its pretty crowded in a F104, but you sure don't want to take a chance and damage a wire or pin connection on the motor.
What if you simply left the sensor wire in the motor and have a wire in your spare motor? That way you can simply unplug from the ESC. You're right, its pretty crowded in a F104, but you sure don't want to take a chance and damage a wire or pin connection on the motor.
#3
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
It's the same issue with the ESC though, I've convinced myself I need a gender bender terminal block so I'll order some socket and make one up.
#4
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Ordered 10 sets of male and female JST ZH 1.5mm pitch 6-pin connectors (eBay seller for less then $6).
Once they arrive, will solder females back to back and encapsulate in non-conductive araldite (may add mount underneath, there is a screw hole in carbon roll damper plate).
Will post results, if it works well I could sell these I'm sure.
4 guy's in local Hobby shop all understood the issue today, asked to see my solution later.
Once they arrive, will solder females back to back and encapsulate in non-conductive araldite (may add mount underneath, there is a screw hole in carbon roll damper plate).
Will post results, if it works well I could sell these I'm sure.
4 guy's in local Hobby shop all understood the issue today, asked to see my solution later.