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Old 03-08-2005, 04:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
you guys talking about the ESC connection to the battery?
Exactly. Hope you have a good conection there already. Makes a big difference. What connectors/plugs are you using?

Regarding the PK plugs.
Maybe Lonestar choose not the best name for this. Corally or Euro style connector is much more known. I think nobody outside Europe knows PK.
This system was introduced to RC by Corally some years ago. Now itīs sold also by companies like Team Orion, GM-Racing, CS and many others. The plugs are available with straight segments as the original one or with twisted segments as could be seen from Coleīs picture. This seems to be a little better as there is a self cleaning effect with this. There are also some cheap copies which arenīt as good as the plugs made by MC. Until now Orion,Robitronic and Corally were the best. All of them look like the ones from MC.

LRP changed their plug system also to this style some time ago. Difference is LRP uses silver plated all other use gold plated connectorss.

Iīm also using this system and itīs quite good. I donīt want hardwiring the battery but I do this with the motor.
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Old 03-08-2005, 05:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
Which makes me think of, it seems like it always the two outer most cells, that are discharged first, equals, have less capasity. Would it be an advantage, to rebuild the pack for each 10 runs, moving the other two cells to th middle?
ABout this issue;

I'm definately not an chemist expert, nor a NiMh chemistry hardcore specialist. But could the reason be, that the energy from the inner cells have to go through the outer cells, and the energy from the outer cells also have to pass through the outer cells? Thus the outer cells get more stressed?

If so, it might be worth to move the outer cells to inner locations for maybe each 10-15 runs, to distribute the stress on the cells more evenly?

The other option, is to buy around 3 equal packs at the same time, and then rematch them after maybe 40-50 runs, and then end up with two good packs.

What do you guys think?

And maybe we're now so much off topic, that it should go into a separate thread - at least the topic would get more attention
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Old 03-08-2005, 06:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
I dont know what a PK plug is... I'm using plugs like these:



They go into tubes like these, which I've soldered directly to the battery:



I'm not convinced that these will heat up, actually the battery bars heat up a lot more
As mentioned above, that's indeed these plugs I'm talking about. And their resistance (as a whole, ie male+female) is higher than a solder joint, because there's a pressured *contact* between the male and female part... which is not as good as a real joint which allows the current to flow over the whole thing.

Plus they age and the "pressure" on the "fins" of the male plug gets lower and lower... hence more resistance. It might not sound like much, but when you're pulling higher peaks than 100A, it sure create a lot of loss (heat). It's the best plug on the market, but it's still a plug.


If you use "bullet" plugs, use them on top of batt bars. At least to keep the heat a little further away from the cell itself.

I might be wrong... but I'm pretty sure PK and Corally were one same house at the beginning... I associate PK with electronics and Corally with cars (the original alloy used for the chassis was Coral, which was even tm'ed I think). When these plugs were released, they definitely were from Holland and were "PK plugs" until everyone started copying them!

Cheers,
Paul
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Old 03-08-2005, 06:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
ABout this issue;

I'm definately not an chemist expert, nor a NiMh chemistry hardcore specialist. But could the reason be, that the energy from the inner cells have to go through the outer cells, and the energy from the outer cells also have to pass through the outer cells? Thus the outer cells get more stressed?
Not that I would think of... the same amount of current flows through the whole loop (and every cell)... There might be some initial inertia effects where the first cell is the one that gets the hardes "pull", but I doubt it...

Cheers,
Paul
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Old 03-08-2005, 06:55 AM   #20
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On the Robitronic equalizerboard you have LEDīs so you can see which cells are finished first. But I have to say with my cells I never have just the outer cells finished first. Itīs different from pack to pack and maybe varies with life of the cells. I donīt think there is a reason why the outer cells should be discharged first. I never heard of this and also have no idea why this may happen beside too much soldering on these cells.

Cole
I think rematching never is a bad thing. Packs always will improve after that if one or two cells have changed more than others. But you leave some cells unusable. The problem is just how you want doing this as most people doesnīt have the knowledge and equipment for doing this the right way. Just fiddling around when youīre not 100% knowing what youīre doing doesnīt work in reality.
I made this long time ago and was very time consuming but worked pretty well. I think best is if your favourite matcher is offering this as a service.
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Old 03-08-2005, 12:11 PM   #21
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Okay, I'm not entirely sure about it's always the outer cells, that is discharged first. I'll have to watch and note down the results.

I do have an Eagle CDC v6.0/B2, which can discharge at 20 amps and also charge / discharge single cells. So doing a individual cycle of each cell in my four packs, could be done, including IR and average voltage.

But as you pointed out, it's very time consuming (approx. 1 hour pr. cell), so I think I wont do it before, I clearly feel / measure, that some of the packs perform less good.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:47 PM   #22
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Hey V12
Im actually using Deans plugs for my connection between the ESC and the battery and i hardwire my ESC to my motor.

i dont like corally plugs as i have seen them pop off the batteries in a hit. so i consider them unreliable!
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:03 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Hey V12
Im actually using Deans plugs for my connection between the ESC and the battery and i hardwire my ESC to my motor.

i dont like corally plugs as i have seen them pop off the batteries in a hit. so i consider them unreliable!
I also use deans between the ESC and battery. and also hardwire the ESC to the motor

I have seen the corally style plugs come off too easy in a hit or shunt
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Last edited by Jack2; 03-08-2005 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 03-09-2005, 06:28 AM   #24
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What? Corally plugs pop off the battery in a crash? Na never saw this happen.
Iīm using this plugs since they were released by Corally. Donīt remember bust must be more than 10 years now and I never had this problem.
Yes I had the battery coming loose in very hard crashes when tape broke or battery brace come loose but the strong contact of the plugs saved the battery from flying away everytime.
But I have to say itīs a good idea replacing the plugs from time to time maybe once a year. If you take care and donīt work on the plugs with pliers you wonīt have problems like this.
Resistancewise there is no better plug than the Corally style but as I said before be sure using the "right" ones from Corally, Team Orion, Robitronic or maybe LRP but not a cheap copy. These suck.
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Old 03-09-2005, 06:33 AM   #25
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I use corally style plugs works perfect, never pops out. I think they are better than deans... and they don't get hot or warm, only battery bars do..
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