Aries326

iTrader: (19)

While we're on the subject of the diff, I have a question about the diff spring. Do you guys use it at all?

Both of the TC3s I bought of eBay I took apart to do cleaning and maintenance work. Both of them did not use the diff spring at all.

I ordered diff springs from Tower and I can't get the darn things to fit. If you use them, there's no way the diff bolt will go through the diff spring and into the T-Nut. Is there some special trick I have to do to get it to work? I tried pinching the spring together a few times but that doesn't really shrink it.

What purpose does the diff spring have if the previous owners of the TC3s I bought were running it without the diff spring? Thanks for the help.

Jmccormick

I am not sure about the idea of not using one ? But I know all the manuals I have seen they all have used a diff spring I have always used one. The only time I can imagine not using one is if you are running your front diff at full lock(basicly the same thing as a spool) and therefore you wouldnt need a spring. I do know that assoc has had a few different outdrive setups for example one of the older setups uses a round ring and the newer ones have used what they call d-rings. And another setup uses the t-nut and one uses a regular 2-56 locknut. The one that uses the t-nut the diff bolt and thrust washer and balls go through the short outdrive hub and the diff spring goes in before the t-nut on the long outdrive hub. And the other design the diff spring goes in before the diff bolt and thrusr washers and balls through the long outdrive hub and all that goes in the short outdrive hub is the locknut. the outdrive hubs in both setups are also different part#'s so I dont believe they are interchangable and the part numbers are also different the t-nut type is assoc part#6575 and the locknut type is assoc part#6573. It sounds like you may be using the hub designed to be used with the locknut setup instead of the one for the t-nut setup. You can tell the differance by looking at your short outdrive hub and checking to see if its got a place for the locknut to set in if it does then you need to use the locknut setup which all you would need is a diff bolt kit part assoc part# 6573. I hope this helps LMK

the purpose of the spring is to allow a wider range of adjustability without it you would either have a to loose or to tight diff setting no in between.

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the thorough answer. The Factory TC3 definitely doesn't use the diff spring in the front because of the spool. The rear, I haven't opened up completely. So I'll have to look into that next weekend...

As for the Touring TC3, that one I totally took apart and cleaned everything and it didn't have a diff spring. Since I'm new to this stuff, I don't know what is considered too loose or too tight but my guess would be that it is too loose. I'll have to take the diffs apart and try it again. I have to do it anyways 'cause I have to replace some of the diff balls. For some reason or another, some of the diff balls have flattened areas and need to be replaced. The downside of cutting corners and buying used products...

What causes diff balls and how often should the be replaced?

Jmccormick

My guess is the reason the diff balls are toast is because the past owner failed to use the diff spring.
I have had a set of diff balls last a couple of seasons of racing and they where still in good cond when I replaced them. I usualy take them apart and clean and relube the diffs after 3 or 4 weeks of club racing and usualy before a big race I go through them. When you clean them use a small pipe cleaner and thouroughly clean out the holes the diff balls go in and then look at your diff rings if there is any sign of wear just flip them over and use new diff balls.I would use either the assoc stealth diff lube or RB's hot stuff diff lube. I have used both and have never had any problems. And when replacing the diff balls also replace the thrust balls and washers and use the assoc black grease on them..