8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
01-12-2015, 02:01 AM
#5221
But you needn't buy those. You can use 5mm dia shims. The idea is that the hex should push against the inner bearing race rather than who knows against what or worse, against the shield. Of course, the bearings need to have a spacers between them, again pushing against the inner race. That way, you know you're not going to crush anything no matter what and even in case of impact you might be able to save the bearings (the outer bearing might suffer though given its inner race takes the hit and the outer race is fixed against the knuckle)
01-12-2015, 04:29 AM
#5223
Tech Apprentice
BD7-2015 Alloy Rear Driveshafts ?
Hi,
I know you can get the alloy rear dog bone but is there a complete Alloy Rear Driveshaft available ?
I know you can get the alloy rear dog bone but is there a complete Alloy Rear Driveshaft available ?
01-12-2015, 06:28 AM
#5224
Both.
What I found on all cars (Xray, Tamiya, Yokomo) is that proper gear diff mesh is best achieved when the back of the gears is sanded and shims are used. This is perhaps due to inconsistencies in housing molds or whatnot. Butter smooth may not mean anything though. The gears have rather coarse teeth so profile is crucial. Material used is also important and for my money, the xray plastic is the best here. Metal gears are pointless and heavy (perhaps more durable, but short of running stupid motors in mod, I don't think they bring any advantage over the increase in rotating mass they come with). Then again, running stupid motors in mod is not making the situation any better if the rotating mass is high. On the contrary.
What I found on all cars (Xray, Tamiya, Yokomo) is that proper gear diff mesh is best achieved when the back of the gears is sanded and shims are used. This is perhaps due to inconsistencies in housing molds or whatnot. Butter smooth may not mean anything though. The gears have rather coarse teeth so profile is crucial. Material used is also important and for my money, the xray plastic is the best here. Metal gears are pointless and heavy (perhaps more durable, but short of running stupid motors in mod, I don't think they bring any advantage over the increase in rotating mass they come with). Then again, running stupid motors in mod is not making the situation any better if the rotating mass is high. On the contrary.
paul
01-12-2015, 06:36 AM
#5225
In Japan they run 13.5 boosted and was my first time running this setup. I felt really confident with this car and it's setup on carpet. I was driving it as hard as I could, getting it as close as I can to the board and dots. I think with a little tire prep it should be a contender with the rest of the guys at the track.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q6WOwUwUp6k
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q6WOwUwUp6k
Care to share your ratio and speedo setup? I run 13.5 boosted too and I'm struggling with finding the sweet spot... thanks!
01-12-2015, 07:26 AM
#5227
There is another option though for a lightweight (rear) driveshaft. If you find one of the (old) Tamiya Titanium axles, you can use that with an alloy bone.
01-12-2015, 07:26 AM
#5228
SCRCSS
We have a fun new series in SoCal, consisting of:
Realistic GT bodies
17.5 blinky motor
Open tire, spoke wheels only
1, 3m qualifier, 5 fastest consecutive laps for grid
3-10m mains, with a pitstop
Posting here to encourage others around the globe to try this new format
It's very fun
Realistic GT bodies
17.5 blinky motor
Open tire, spoke wheels only
1, 3m qualifier, 5 fastest consecutive laps for grid
3-10m mains, with a pitstop
Posting here to encourage others around the globe to try this new format
It's very fun
| + YouTube Video | |
01-12-2015, 01:25 PM
#5229
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I normally use a 12.3mm rotor for 13.5T boosted and most of the time gearing will be around 6.8:1 to 7.5:1.
Start with low can timing real timing of 15-20 deg, esc 35 deg of boost and 15 deg of turbo once the rpm points are roughly current you can add a little extra timing.
01-12-2015, 07:03 PM
#5231
I have them but still in packets 
Looking forward to trying them on our higher grip tarmac track next week when we return to club racing (ok where we are racing at the moment is high grip but they have chosen the wrong control tyre IMHO (Ride 36 Blue))
Looking forward to trying them on our higher grip tarmac track next week when we return to club racing (ok where we are racing at the moment is high grip but they have chosen the wrong control tyre IMHO (Ride 36 Blue))
01-12-2015, 07:53 PM
#5232
Tech Regular