JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

It slows down the steering response off center. Very helpful if the car easily gets unsettled in quick/fast chicanes. Let's the car be less responsive initially but gives you full steering lock to lock when you want it. It was just a general question for him.

Walzjer, have you tried 3 degree rear toe for the slow corners? Maybe also just run 1mm on the front inner link. You could try .5mm or .8mm kick up or 6 degree caster blocks if you have a lot of high speed corners or sweepers. Are you loosing steering going in, middle, or exit? Same with looseness?

For some layouts I ran the 6 degree blocks, but once we moved to a more technical layout I went back to 4 degrees. Sometimes I ran anti dive up front.

walzjer

I tried 3° toe, but 2,5 was a bit better. I don't have 6 degree caster blocks but i can try the kick up.

Steering I loose in the entry of high speed corners. Looseness in slow corners when I'm away from throttle and when I'm going onto it again.

RemoDB7

Hi all, I returned to Rc racing after a couple of years off. I have a Yokomo BD7 2014 edition. I have the following issue. Coming out of slow left handers, after I power if I am not very careful the car spins out. On right handers it's perfectly ok. I have checked the chassis and it's flat. I have also placed the car on the tweak station and all is perfectly set. But on the track it's not. I have even tried the following small test. From an stationary position and full lock to the left, they full power and the car spins out. When doing the same on the opposite direction the turn radius is wider and the cars pulls to the outside of the circle without spinning.

DirkW

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked that steering angles / turn radius are both about the same, left and right?

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

RemoDB7, here are a few things you could check. Check the front hub bearings and make sure you do not have one that's bad. Check the front spool outdrives to see if one is notched, so that the cvd does not slide in and out freely. Check the front cvd to see if all pins are in place and not bent or broken. One of those may be your problem.

RemoDB7

Thanks I will check it out.

RemoDB7

Thanks. I will definitely check these out.

S.Stew

iTrader: (13)

One other thing to check is that your droop (suspension arm down stops) are set the same side to side. Best to check this on a set of droop blocks. If you don't have any, you can check by slowly lifting the chassis off of a flat surface and check to see if the left and right tires "lift off" the surface at the same time. Do this for both front and rear and try to lift from the center of the chassis as you do it.

Hope this helps!

RemoDB7

Thanks Steven for the reply. The droops are set the same left and right. Even when I lift the car the tires leave the ground at the same time.

daleburr

I'm sure you could build a couple of Tamiyas if you had a look around the Armco for all the broken bits left behind

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm. Is your track smooth or bumpy? I don't measure droop like that but try 6-6.5mm front and 5-5.5mm rear. Also try a front stiffer spring and standing the shocks up all around. I normally run more rebound outdoors. You can try that later.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Ths is obvious, but have you chckd your tire to make sure they are not comng unglued? Also, check for cracks in your rear hubs and a arms.

If everything is set right on you car and it acts tweaked, there is either a fissured suspension component, bad set of tires or a geometry issue. Check all your shims, shock positions, suspension mounts, etc to make sure they are the same side to side.

Colbynobo

iTrader: (21)

A layout change at my track and my switch to a different body has resulted in me smacking the boards a little more often. I broke 2 c-hubs (one plastic, one graphite) on back-to-back runs earlier this week. While putting together an order on rcmarket I see that they have Arena aluminum hubs. I think it was JimmyMac who made mention the other day that he's running these. Anyway, I'm curious as to whether those who have opted to run the Arena (or other aluminum) hubs have experienced some of the typical things that people encounter with aluminum steering parts. Namely, more likely to snap the steering blocks, suspension arm or even the chassis.

I ordered a bunch of new plastic c-hubs. My intention is to also try the boiling method. Has anyone else tried this with any degree of success? I went plastic as opposed to graphite since that's all I could find from one of the American-based parts sellers.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

All my chubs are boiled. I cannot comment on durability because I haven't ever broken any (4degree). I have broken a 6 degree, but that was because I didn't cut down the axles on my drive shafts when I ran the Spec R double jointed shafts. The axle end just barely clipped a part of the corner and it ripped everything off. The Arena chubs are tiny but seem strong so far. You'll more than likely strip out knuckles. If you crash, then as usual, check for bending. It's an alternative I use until the chub shortage is done. Oh, and when using the plastic chubs, I put a 0.1mm shim in there to take out any slop between the chub and arm.

walzjer

It's quite bumpy. Actually i run 5.5mm front and 4.5 mm rear droop but will raise that to 6.5/5.5. I tried HB Pink but went back to Silver, felt better. Shocks position is noticed to test next time.