Colbynobo

iTrader: (21)

Obviously, I didn't look close enough. The hardened Xray bumper does a good job on my T3. I'll order another one for my BD7 and get the Dremel warmed up. Now that I've built the car and have more of an idea what support parts I'll need I have to make another Amain order anyway. I'll throw the bumper in with that. I can't remember whether I read it in this thread or not, but do the offset Xray spur gears work on BD7s? If not, maybe the Serpent ones work?

AL1983

iTrader: (4)

Yokomo BD-7 Super Precision Bearing Set (B7-BBP)

Anyone know if these yokomo bearings are Ceramic? if not are they worth the price?

Thx!

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

My guess is no, they are not ceramic. If I remember correctly, one ceramic bearing from Yokomo was like $10. I use bulk bearings. Like a few dollars for a set of 10. Mainly because our carpet track is horrible for getting carpet fuzz into the wheel bearings. There-fore I have no problems with throwing out a bearing and replacing it with a low cost one that I know I will throw out again. At least for club racing.

Crashmaster

Hi giuys,

After abit of advice on setup if anyone can give me a hand.

Running in the wet I'm really stuggling to get the car to turn, both initial turn in and rotation mid corner. As the track dries out the car switches on and drives really well but just abit unsure on what to try.

I've attached the setup I ended up with if anyone could take a look and give me any advice? - Note I'm running the kit 4 deg caster not 6 as in the sheet!

So far I've tried:

Yok yellow springs frnt, blue rear (no better just more on edge)
Various shock postions
2.5 deg rear toe (lost too much traction with this, particulary in the greasy conditions!)
Spool up front (even less off throttle steering)

Thanks for any help

Dan

Donny Banks

iTrader: (24)

dont chase the setup. Just wait till the track dries.

Crashmaster

Unfortunately we race in these conditions over the winter with round by round scoring so can't just wait for it to dry up for a FTD run... Unfortuantely other cars are alot stronger in these conditions too not struggling with the lack of steering.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I'd think a good place to start would be short camber links and less camber. I've noticed in low-grip (never raced in wet, though), 2* camber just doesn't work because the contact patch isn't even enough to get the car to roll over onto the tire. Going with much less camber (like 1* or even 0.5*) would give more of a contact patch, and then as the car rolls, the shorter camber link will give more camber gain.

EDIT: Taking another look at your setup sheet, I see you have a long front link and short rear link. The rule of thumb I've sort of come to is that a short link gives more initial grip (corner entry) and less ultimate grip (mid corner), while a long link gives less initial grip and more ultimate grip. So with a long front link and short rear, I'd kind of expect a car that doesn't want to turn-in, but might get loose once it has.

Also, you might try softer shock oil. Having the front thicker than the rear should also help with turn-in.

-Mike

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Alright dan, are you running a ball diff in the rear or gear diff, the ball diff seems to transform the car in those wet and slippery conditions?

peter.

my yokomo is for sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ion-parts.html

wazee

Could anybody tell me if there are any (internal) differences in the new and old shocks? Different sizes of o-rings or anything?

peter.

no all the same

andrease

No difference, only the anti-friction treatment

AL1983

iTrader: (4)

How do I know by just looking at the part or part nr that the suspension mounts are for FF or RR?
Are there any FR or RF one piece in black version?

Thx!

Crashmaster

Hey up Luke,

Running a gear atm, speaking to Dale think I'm going to try thinner diff oil to try and help it rotate. Know the guys have had a bit of success with the ball diff just trying to avoid it atm....Might end up having to bite the bullet though!

Cheers for the answers though guys, much appreciated!

Dan

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Yeah running thinner oil will definitely help mate, Jordan was running about 700 I think. The ball diff does seem to make quite a big difference with the bd7, seems to make the car rotate a lot more. Hpi silver springs all round, spool at the front and the ltc-r helps a lot as well