YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#1611
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I am using Kimbrough because that's what my local track keeps stock. Took me all of a few seconds to file down the screws so they fit.
Another option, you can use
Tamiya 51211 - RC 3x5 Flat Screws
I hate having to special order a spur gear, especially how easily it can strip.
Another option, you can use
Tamiya 51211 - RC 3x5 Flat Screws
I hate having to special order a spur gear, especially how easily it can strip.
Last edited by Cadman1981; 01-21-2013 at 05:42 PM.
#1612
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
So back to the DCJs... The Yokomos pin is too short, the Tamiyas rub against the hub, the Spec-Rs take a pin that is 2.0mm instead of the Yok's 2.1mm, so what else is there?
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
Last edited by Cadman1981; 02-18-2013 at 04:49 PM.
#1613
So back to the DCJs... The Yokomos pin is too short, the Tamiyas rub against the hub, the Spec-Rs take a pin that is 2.0mm instead of the Yok's 2.0mm, so what else is there?
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
#1615
I am using Kimbrough because that's what my local track keeps stock. Took me all of a few seconds to file down the screws so they fit.
Another option, you can use
Tamiya 51211 - RC 3x5 Flat Screws
I hate having to special order a spur gear, especially how easily it can strip.
Another option, you can use
Tamiya 51211 - RC 3x5 Flat Screws
I hate having to special order a spur gear, especially how easily it can strip.
RW spurs with AE 5mm button screw from TC6 works fine
#1616
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Oh... this is not good! haha.
At the end of my recorded run I left the car on the track to cool down for a bit. When I pick up the car, everything suddenly stops..
Turns out the bullet plugs melted off the solder joint - and solder melts at 180 degrees
Motor came off at 110 degrees while the speedy topped at 50. I wont be running this motor again. Just have to wait for my 13.5 to arrive in the post
At the end of my recorded run I left the car on the track to cool down for a bit. When I pick up the car, everything suddenly stops..
Turns out the bullet plugs melted off the solder joint - and solder melts at 180 degrees
Motor came off at 110 degrees while the speedy topped at 50. I wont be running this motor again. Just have to wait for my 13.5 to arrive in the post
#1617
I'm running on a smaller carpet track with sorex 32 and sweep 32 and found the set up easy to drive for mod but could use a lot more steering and almost perfect for 13.5 no boost. I only had to change the droop values for less droop and it was almost perfect.
#1618
So back to the DCJs... The Yokomos pin is too short, the Tamiyas rub against the hub, the Spec-Rs take a pin that is 2.0mm instead of the Yok's 2.0mm, so what else is there?
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
Can the pin for the Yokomos be slotted? or is there a longer pin we can use? any ideas?
The track i race on is a tight carpet track, so i will have binding in my CVDs.
#1619
#1620
I have never had a binding issue with Tamiya DCJ's in my BD7. I have not modified anything and no binding. Mine have been in the car for three or four months.