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Old 11-26-2017, 10:49 AM
  #7501  
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Has anyone had issues with the rear hubs breaking on the 2016 car? I have been consistently breaking them.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:08 AM
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Yes I constantly crack the hex adapters near the screw hole... but they seem to stay safely in place even if cracked... so I don't really care much
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
Has anyone had issues with the rear hubs breaking on the 2016 car? I have been consistently breaking them.
Broke a C-Hub once or twice, but never a rear hub
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Old 11-26-2017, 03:32 PM
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I am breaking the hubs between the bearings and lower pin.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
I am breaking the hubs between the bearings and lower pin.
Check the eccentrics make sure they’re even on both side, high position.

44mm drive shafts
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Old 11-27-2017, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SMOKESHOW86 View Post
I am breaking the hubs between the bearings and lower pin.
I remember a few of the UK guys breaking the graphite rear hubs on the BD7.

Give the softer plastic ones a try instead, I think they're less brittle.
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Old 11-27-2017, 07:32 AM
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Hi All,

I'm looking for the O-ring that is used for the Yokomo BD7/8 adjustable body mounts, mines cracked. Can anyone help me with a part number for these?

Thank you.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
But post of 2013 needs also remove that screw on lower deck to remove it completely, because i just want without that post of motor mount in my car to run bigger pinion gear.

Best regards
use a dremel to grind of the post a bit
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by esckalayd View Post
First time running the 2016 on asphalt and boy did it lack rotation and initial steering. I couldn't get the thing to rotate even after some drastic roll center changes along with narrowing up the wheel base. I was running the short shocks, short shock towers, and the lower CG bulkheads.

Check out the setup sheet. Would love some feedback.
try remove shims under outer front camber link. if still feel pushy add some shims under inner front camber link
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:21 PM
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BD7 2014 VS newer versions. Is the 2014 still worth getting and racing with competitively? Is there any way to update the older 2014 version and is it necessary for the newer upgrades in the club spec classes?
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:20 PM
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2014 is okay, imo the 2015 is better, equipped with lower towers and SLFII shocks its a winner.
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Old 03-06-2018, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Autostrada048 View Post
BD7 2014 VS newer versions. Is the 2014 still worth getting and racing with competitively? Is there any way to update the older 2014 version and is it necessary for the newer upgrades in the club spec classes?
As i saw 2015 bulkhead cap could fit 2014 car bulkhead in case use SMJ big bore shock towers on 2014 car.

I thought 2014 or 2015 with big bore shocks are very competitive since run on 17.5 and 21.5 blinky classes, i think!

Last edited by mac853; 03-06-2018 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 03-27-2018, 12:08 AM
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Default Converting BD7 2014/2015 to BD8

Now BD8 uses 40T gear diff, similar to the BD7 2014/2015, hence is it worth to buy the components like upper deck, chassis, motor mount and the central 20T gear , front spool... to convert it to the BD8?
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tc3driverhk View Post
Now BD8 uses 40T gear diff, similar to the BD7 2014/2015, hence is it worth to buy the components like upper deck, chassis, motor mount and the central 20T gear , front spool... to convert it to the BD8?
I would have to say no. Without listing everything if add up those things you can easily buy a preowned BD8, you forgot about bulkheads also.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
I would have to say no. Without listing everything if add up those things you can easily buy a preowned BD8, you forgot about bulkheads also.
Then we should stay on the BD7 2014/2015 platform, they are still competitive.
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