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Old 12-05-2015, 11:12 AM   #6421
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
You're welcome.

I don't have the short shock conversion for my '14 or '15, so I am not really sure about the size differences, but I doubt it would work. So my guess would be, that that sheet is indeed a little off on this detail, but I could be wrong. Sorry, no definite answer here.
Ok, Thank`s!
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:54 AM   #6422
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Hi all.
Im new on this site anew am going to be racing again after 15 years. I just picked up a 2nd hand bd7 15. Has anyone got any tips

Do the short sticks make much difference

All info helpful

Cheers
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:00 PM   #6423
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Put them in an electric oven at ~200degC. The alloy will expand more than the steel bearings and the bearings will just fall out. Shouldn't harm the anodizing either.
Thank u for the trick I ll try it!
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #6424
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
For such small parts, I would try the trick I used to do on some of lab machinery and use a high power soldering iron applied directly to the aluminium. Keep in mind it might affect the anodising colour. I used to take interference fit pinions off motor drives like that. I guess anything that will heat rapidly and locally is good (with variables).

These days, I would try the freeze and release agent first though. That is also a lubricant. I have had some brilliant results pulling sheared studs out of engine blocks I would have just scrapped in the past.
Thank u for the input!
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #6425
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anyone knows the size of bdy steering rack bearing?
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Old 12-11-2015, 05:47 AM   #6426
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Nice!
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:23 AM   #6427
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
BD7'16 Conversion Kit
Mine are ordered!

Martin Paradis
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Old 12-12-2015, 01:11 AM   #6428
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Default Conversion or full kit??

I currently have a 13 and 2 x 14 bd7s. I have the oppurtunity to get a conversion kit reasonably cheaper, but I'm thinking of a full kit. Can anyone give any pros n cons w my situation?

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:25 AM   #6429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will smith View Post
I currently have a 13 and 2 x 14 bd7s. I have the oppurtunity to get a conversion kit reasonably cheaper, but I'm thinking of a full kit. Can anyone give any pros n cons w my situation?

Thanks in advance
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will smith View Post
I currently have a 13 and 2 x 14 bd7s. I have the oppurtunity to get a conversion kit reasonably cheaper, but I'm thinking of a full kit. Can anyone give any pros n cons w my situation?

Thanks in advance
Hi Will,

If your cars are in decent condition(free of any kind of tweak you haven't been able to isolate), I recommend the conversion kit to be used on your 2014 car. The conversion kit is the most EXTENSIVE to date and replaces a huge amount of parts making it difficult to distinguish it from an all new car kit. It's shocking how much is new save for plastics and bearings. This is the cheapest way and a huge bonus for owners of older kits to stay up to date. It's great that Yokomo makes a great effort to offer a conversion kit to save a few bucks.

Pros-
Cheapest way to get the latest car with majority of the higher priced parts included(i.e. Bulkheads, shocks, chassis)

Cons-
-new bearings, driveshafts and plastics included in new kit(however these are the cheapest and most frequently serviced parts with the shortest operation life. You've likely already replaced these recently.)
-Fresh and tweak free suspension blocks( if you car tracks straight and turns equally left and right, chances are your existing blocks are perfectly straight.

Bottom line: if your car is in excellent working condition,which most are, it's just wasting money buying an all new car kit.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:37 AM   #6430
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the 15's spring can not be used in the 16's.
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Old 12-12-2015, 05:00 AM   #6431
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Hi Will,

If your cars are in decent condition(free of any kind of tweak you haven't been able to isolate), I recommend the conversion kit to be used on your 2014 car. The conversion kit is the most EXTENSIVE to date and replaces a huge amount of parts making it difficult to distinguish it from an all new car kit. It's shocking how much is new save for plastics and bearings. This is the cheapest way and a huge bonus for owners of older kits to stay up to date. It's great that Yokomo makes a great effort to offer a conversion kit to save a few bucks.

Pros-
Cheapest way to get the latest car with majority of the higher priced parts included(i.e. Bulkheads, shocks, chassis)

Cons-
-new bearings, driveshafts and plastics included in new kit(however these are the cheapest and most frequently serviced parts with the shortest operation life. You've likely already replaced these recently.)
-Fresh and tweak free suspension blocks( if you car tracks straight and turns equally left and right, chances are your existing blocks are perfectly straight.

Bottom line: if your car is in excellent working condition,which most are, it's just wasting money buying an all new car kit.

Thank u for taking the time to reply. Let's say if I do get the conversion kit n transform one of my 14 to 16, can I then w the old 14 parts convert my 13 to a 14??
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:52 AM   #6432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Hi Will,

If your cars are in decent condition(free of any kind of tweak you haven't been able to isolate), I recommend the conversion kit to be used on your 2014 car. The conversion kit is the most EXTENSIVE to date and replaces a huge amount of parts making it difficult to distinguish it from an all new car kit. It's shocking how much is new save for plastics and bearings. This is the cheapest way and a huge bonus for owners of older kits to stay up to date. It's great that Yokomo makes a great effort to offer a conversion kit to save a few bucks.

Pros-
Cheapest way to get the latest car with majority of the higher priced parts included(i.e. Bulkheads, shocks, chassis)

Cons-
-new bearings, driveshafts and plastics included in new kit(however these are the cheapest and most frequently serviced parts with the shortest operation life. You've likely already replaced these recently.)
-Fresh and tweak free suspension blocks( if you car tracks straight and turns equally left and right, chances are your existing blocks are perfectly straight.

Bottom line: if your car is in excellent working condition,which most are, it's just wasting money buying an all new car kit.
Decided that will get the full kit. I will be travelling to America in couple of days for just over a month. Got an invite from amain in Sacramento. Can't resist a tour n quick race in their track and also bd7 16. Already lined up a buyer for my 13.
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Old 12-12-2015, 08:48 AM   #6433
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I have just received my bd7 16 new kit after deciding to switch from from running Tamiya trf's for longish time.

I will be running outdoor on low grip tracks. Are there any must have parts or upgrades I should get before I start building?

Many thanks
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Old 12-12-2015, 08:58 AM   #6434
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Originally Posted by acutts View Post
I have just received my bd7 16 new kit after deciding to switch from from running Tamiya trf's for longish time.

I will be running outdoor on low grip tracks. Are there any must have parts or upgrades I should get before I start building?

Many thanks
Yeah. All the parts in the previous kits. That should just about cover it.
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:00 AM   #6435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Yeah. All the parts in the previous kits. That should just about cover it.
Thanks most helpful just ordering them all now.
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