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Old 03-16-2014, 11:50 AM
  #3826  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
It feels smoother, but I haven't ran it back to back to compare it yet because I was doing back to back short shock vs standard shock testing. If I have time I'll do that today with the diffs.
does the silicon feel lighter with metal gears? To clearly put it, does a 1000 with plastic feel the same as a 1000 with metal gears? In the Tamiya's, I noticed that with steel vs plastic, you have to run a much thicker oil to get the same feel as plastic gears.

Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Feels the same on track. I had no problems with the plastic gears either so that money for metal gears should be spent elsewhere.
Agreed. I've been running a diff from my BD5 days, ran it with mod, and still run it today with 13.5 boosted, never had any problems either. Ordered the metal ones out of curiosity. And am still curious hahaha!
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:40 PM
  #3827  
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Does anyone know if the stock BD7 RS spring cups fit HPI springs? Or do you need these?

https://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist...ts_b7_s3n.html
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:55 PM
  #3828  
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Originally Posted by frozenpod
I have the 2014, black shocks with titanium coated shafts. I am surprised they are anything short of exceptional. Would a shim to squeeze the orings be worth a try?
Following up from this I spent several hrs building shocks and trying other orings from other brands of shocks.

From the original yok shocks I have 2 ok shocks (100% stock) that can run little to no rebound without sucking in air, 1 not great but workable shock requires about 25% rebound to prevent sucking in air (slightly better with mugen orings) and one that sucks in air badly with stock orings. It is a little better with other orings but is sill not up to the task.

The best fitting orings were mugen reds followed by kyosho clear.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:00 PM
  #3829  
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Have you tried the Yok blue oring?
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:04 PM
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Yes, the shocks have 2 x yok blue oring with the thin spacer.
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:45 PM
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Are you using black bladders? The clear kit bladders are a one time use kind of part.
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:48 PM
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Yes I have the black bladders.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:45 PM
  #3833  
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Originally Posted by RAL
Does anyone know if the stock BD7 RS spring cups fit HPI springs? Or do you need these?

https://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist...ts_b7_s3n.html
HPI springs are a direct fit to BD7 Damper, not sure about RS ?
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:30 PM
  #3834  
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I run with my DIY chassis, very good..

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Old 03-16-2014, 09:30 PM
  #3835  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
HPI springs are a direct fit to BD7 Damper, not sure about RS ?
Thanks DB!
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:05 AM
  #3836  
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Originally Posted by asuradahk001
I run with my DIY chassis, very good..

What is DIY chassis? Couldnīt find it anywhere.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:47 AM
  #3837  
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DIY... usually means Do-It-Yourself
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:36 AM
  #3838  
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Originally Posted by mikeygar
does the silicon feel lighter with metal gears? To clearly put it, does a 1000 with plastic feel the same as a 1000 with metal gears? In the Tamiya's, I noticed that with steel vs plastic, you have to run a much thicker oil to get the same feel as plastic gears.



Agreed. I've been running a diff from my BD5 days, ran it with mod, and still run it today with 13.5 boosted, never had any problems either. Ordered the metal ones out of curiosity. And am still curious hahaha!
Unless the pitch of the plastic vs metal gears are different the oil should "feel" the same. (That is making sure the plastic or the metal gears are not tight in the diff case.)
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:54 AM
  #3839  
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Default Two or four satellite gear

Hi all, have anyone try to use two satellite gear in the rear gear diff on bd7 2014? If yes, in what condition is this setting preferred?
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:56 PM
  #3840  
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Shocks appear to be sorted, I found the oring cap was bottoming out before the thin washer made contact with the oring on the 2 not so good shocks.

The 2 orings were just protruding from the shock body so I assume the design was to have the washer press up to the bottom of the shock body applying slight pressure to the orings to prevent movement and leaks.

I removed approximately 0.1mm from the cap which allowed the thin washer to press against the oring and stop air being sucked in.
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