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Old 02-10-2014, 02:57 PM
  #3661  
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Hi

How does the 2014 feel compared to the standard bd7.thinking of getting upgrade kit. Also has anyone run the shorter shocks yet?

Marc
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
This works well for our indoor track in the Philippines:

5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm

Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3

Rear

Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2

**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
hi mikey,
looking forward to meet you next week at huge track....
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
This works well for our indoor track in the Philippines:

5.2F/5.2R mm ride height. Low Diff position, Ackerman 1mm, Bump Steer 0.5mm

Front
Spring Ride Red 3rd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0 mm spacer,
Camber -1.5,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 6.0
Front suspension blocks,FF 3.5 FR 3.5
Toe = out 0.5,
Sway bar 1.3

Rear

Spring Ride Red 2nd hole,
Camber link length - short
Inner Camber Link 0.5 mm spacer,
Camber -2,
Outer Camber link, 1 mm,
Droop 4.5 ,
Toe = 3 **RF 2.0, RR 6.4 ,
Sway bar 1.2

**plastic arms/graphite knuckles
*shock oil 400-500 using 1.1 (black) pistons
Are you purposely use plastic arms to make the car less responsive or for some other reasons? And what is the tyre and tyre treatment for this setup? Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
hi mikey,
looking forward to meet you next week at huge track....
Hey KS!!! Yes, my favourite same heat opponent! But this time around, I will be running open brushless, not modified - burned too many motors last year hahahaa!

:-) but looking forward to seeing you anyway! I will be in Bangkok on Tuesday!

Originally Posted by mystique13 View Post
Are you purposely use plastic arms to make the car less responsive or for some other reasons? And what is the tyre and tyre treatment for this setup? Thanks.
Hi Mystique,

I use the plastic arms to generate more traction and be more stable. The graphite parts are too nervous on our asphalt and the plastic helps calm the car down a bit. Same level of maximum traction, but graphite suddenly breaks away and very difficult to recover.

And although our track is super smooth, once traction is really high the 5.2 ride height is needed so the chassis doesn't scrub on the track due to more roll generated.

We use Ride RE36 pre mounted tires here, but this setup works well with Sorex 36 also.

Our tire additive is Mighty Grippper. Works with V2 red and v3 blue, there is V3 yellow but I can't seem to get it to work at all.

By the way, I forgot to mention I am using 1 blue o-ring in the shocks.

Hope this works for you as well.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:08 AM
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Thanks Mikey for the swift response, I'll definitely give plastic arms a try. Look forward to seeing you in Huge track next week as well =] But I'll be running modified, I burned too many ORCA last year...haha
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:41 AM
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Has anyone ever tried only running the plastic arms on the rear with graphite arms on the front to see if it makes a noticeable difference in traction bias?
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mystique13 View Post
Thanks Mikey for the swift response, I'll definitely give plastic arms a try. Look forward to seeing you in Huge track next week as well =] But I'll be running modified, I burned too many ORCA last year...haha
Hey cool, another Yokomo at TITC! Where are you from? If ever you bump into a group of noisy Filipinos, i'll be the only one driving a BD7. Give me a tap and say hi

If the Huge track's asphalt is treated well and is super flat then it should work, going to play with heavier shock oils this weekend to see if they work since it's a bit hotter in Bangkok now than it is here.

Originally Posted by Colbynobo View Post
Has anyone ever tried only running the plastic arms on the rear with graphite arms on the front to see if it makes a noticeable difference in traction bias?
I tried this before and seemed to work with blue/blue Yokomo springs, though didn't test long, was not confidence inspiring...
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:46 AM
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does anyone know if the BD7 2014 conversion kit will work on the BD5Wxi car?
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN View Post
does anyone know if the BD7 2014 conversion kit will work on the BD5Wxi car?
I would guess No because the BD5 bulkheads aren't keyed and may not line up with the bulkhead holes on the new chassis. If they did, the diff spacing may not be the same and you would need to find new belts to fit front and rear. Also would mention top deck alignment.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac View Post
I would guess No because the BD5 bulkheads aren't keyed and may not line up with the bulkhead holes on the new chassis. If the did, the diff spacing may not be the same and you would need to find new belts to fit front and rear. Also would mention top deck alignment.
thanks, Jimmy
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:25 AM
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Does any of you guys know where I can get S.L.F. Normal Shock Set for BD7 2014?

Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:25 AM
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For those whom have not seen the Roche floating servo mount installed:



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Old 02-11-2014, 11:19 AM
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For Sale yokomo bd7
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12998724
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:47 AM
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How do you guys get your diffs in the Down position? when i do, the belts are really tight, so i just the cams to adjust the belt's stiffness. I run Blinky 17.5, so i try to make them relatively loose, but not enough that they skip.
- i also make sure my chassis is not tweaked when i tighten the top deck
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:35 PM
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Yokomo have signed Shin Adachi into their team.
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