YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7

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  • Quote: I've seen the notchy diff, but the 2 cars I have, feel like a perfect ball diff, butter smooth, assembled per directions
    Could be tolerance issues with some parts ?
    The newer diffs seem to be tighter when new than they used to be with the bd5. I sand the back of the crown gear to the point where they look flat (the molding circles are still there though). Then assembled them. After a day of running mod, they smooth out, and all the notches go away. My dad's car, which he only runs 17.5 in, has a bit notchier feeling diffs.

    Conversely, A friend of mine puts some whitening tooth paste inside and chucks it up on a drill to break the gears in, which helps them break in and become smooth. My only concern with that is the oring possibly getting fouled up.

    On the Kyosho O Rings, they are not quite the exact same size and from experience make the diff not be as free. Personally, I run the stock O rings with Zero leakage. The only thing special I do is put a couple of drops of oil on the o rings and also soak the paper gasket with oil. I then crank it as hard as I can without using excessive force so as not to strip it. The diff comes out much freer this way.

    If i would run the Kyosho o-rings, I would probably run slightly softer oil.
  • I sanded the gears until they were completely flat with the mould dots gone. The diff feels awesome with kyosho o-rings. From experience using them in tamiya diffs the kyosho orings swell a little initially but then settle down to be light with no leakage
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  • Quote: I sanded the gears until they were completely flat with the mould dots gone. The diff feels awesome with kyosho o-rings. From experience using them in tamiya diffs the kyosho orings swell a little initially but then settle down to be light with no leakage
    Smooth yes bit they were not as free though. That is why I did not use them. On the Tamiya diffs they were a must for sure, just have not found them to be necessary on the Yokomo differential.
  • Last night I changed the diff fluid on mine and found that one side (pulley side) was tighter than the other. I sanded the sun gear like Cristian mentions and it freed up.

    I also have a leak free diff with OEM O-rings. When new I dissembled it and put some black grease on the axles before filling it up with oil.
  • Black editions may have been ordered. 1 BD7 up for grabs
  • With my diff the outdrive at the pulley side was also tighter then the other side, sanding the gear wouldn't help because is already noticeable whit only the shim and the pin.
    I guess this caused to make my car feel tweaked while i couldn't find a reason.

    My diff leaked very bad whit the oem o-rings so i had to use the kyosho's, i tried to use some yokomo protection grease at the o-rings but it didn't help.



    Quote: Last night I changed the diff fluid on mine and found that one side (pulley side) was tighter than the other. I sanded the sun gear like Cristian mentions and it freed up.

    I also have a leak free diff with OEM O-rings. When new I dissembled it and put some black grease on the axles before filling it up with oil.
  • Hey Guys, found this might be helpful to some hope this helps

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_DhcfcO8dI
  • Yokomo's BD7 2014 video with interviews of Ronald Volker

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ydLfk53ar8#t=38
  • Probably worth watching if you speak Japanese lol.
  • Quote: Probably worth watching if you speak Japanese lol.
    I never miss an opportunity to see media covering a top pro car with the shell removed
    Always something to learn there
  • Just curious, but do any of you guys run the Yokomo battery pad on the chassis?
  • Hi guys!

    I am thinking about buying new BD7 2014. Can you tell me which option parts should I buy? Are you all using Yokomo ECS or is there any other option?
    I am also not sure about the springs. Should I watch for "long type" springs?

    Thank you in advance for your answers!
  • Quote: Hi guys!

    I am thinking about buying new BD7 2014. Can you tell me which option parts should I buy? Are you all using Yokomo ECS or is there any other option?
    I am also not sure about the springs. Should I watch for "long type" springs?

    Thank you in advance for your answers!
    http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...nsPartsNeeded/

    Still trying to work out the best way of running DCJ's. The Yokomo item is notoriously fragile. A lot of people use the Spec-R which is surprisingly durable, but the drive pin is actually too small for the BD7 outdrive.
    Some people use Tamiya ones, and there is a Roche option too.
  • Never had an issue with Yokomo DCJ's
    I run 13.5 blinky

    Perhaps the mod guys are saying this ?

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