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YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7

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Old 05-01-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_7E...qn4lJw&index=9

Been testing 2.0 toe in recently...very satisfy with the feel of it..even im running mod.

the pole position car is mine...manage to secure 6x tq in qualifying and also champ of the race..
Please share your setup
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mornedn View Post
do you mean 2degrees toe in? If so how did you do that?
i change to Yokomo DRB 2.0 toe block...
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kschu View Post
i change to Yokomo DRB 2.0 toe block...
Yokomo Released a 2.0 rear block for the BD7 It also allows you to get 2.5d rear toe with the 41.3 Rf mount but a narrower rear end.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4443

screw needs to be countersunk flat head. This will work in a pinch, my only reservations are that its aluminum. Just be more careful with this than the stock screw.
i agree aluminium will shear.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:53 AM
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I have a sp Competition MMM Series 13.5R and if I drive with blinky 20grade timing can I also just to keep 4.0 or higher
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by peter. View Post
I have a sp Competition MMM Series 13.5R and if I drive with blinky 20grade timing can I also just to keep 4.0 or higher
Peter,

I think at the MRM circuit 4.0 gearratio is way to heavy with the 20deg board inside. start at 5.5 gearratio at this twisty circuit, and then go down in gearration sowly. Measure you motor temperature after a few minuts till it's start to get hot (above 70degC).

Regards Robert
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Peter,

I think at the MRM circuit 4.0 gearratio is way to heavy with the 20deg board inside. start at 5.5 gearratio at this twisty circuit, and then go down in gearration sowly. Measure you motor temperature after a few minuts till it's start to get hot (above 70degC).

Regards Robert
4.5 fdr
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:27 AM
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Does anyone know what 2 o-rings meant on some of the setup sheets? Are they used as a limiter or do you just put 2 them all in the lower shock cap and leave the lower plastic piece out?

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bukil View Post
Does anyone know what 2 o-rings meant on some of the setup sheets? Are they used as a limiter or do you just put 2 them all in the lower shock cap and leave the lower plastic piece out?

Thanks
There is a thinner plastic spacer available so you can use 2 O-rings in the bottom of the shock. The thin spacer part number is YOKBD-S2W.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bukil View Post
Does anyone know what 2 o-rings meant on some of the setup sheets? Are they used as a limiter or do you just put 2 them all in the lower shock cap and leave the lower plastic piece out?

Thanks
Yeah you put them in the bottom but you use a different plastic peice that is thinner.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Yeah you put them in the bottom but you use a different plastic peice that is thinner.
so the next question would be...what does 2 give you over one?
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN View Post
so the next question would be...what does 2 give you over one?
A better seal for one and more stable cornering. For me the car is already stable so I like the one o-ring at least on the tracks I'm running on (med-high bite).

Maybe i'll use 2 orings at Tamiya if the traction is really bad but I doubt it.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:30 PM
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Bought a used BD7 and it only took one pack to confirm that it was a good decision! thanks to Racing4evo who helped me to get the car up and running....
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:33 PM
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Nice driving today Francis.

I lost a belt tension spring cam ball. What size are those balls?
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:42 PM
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Anyones want to share their set up for out door racing ...17.5 or mod Thanks
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