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Old 04-02-2013, 02:06 PM
  #2011  
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Originally Posted by higbo View Post
This T-Shox is version long or short????????

Long version matey, not had chance to try it yet though.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
guys i kind of meant which parts are there that are useful, so spares of everything in a kit or every single part isn't really what I meant..
I have used all the springs from the spring set, the different toe blocks, graphite arms long and short, rear carrier graphite, stock c-hubs, graphite steering knuckle.

My first issue with the car was trying to use the BD-5 Graphite C-hubs with the car. Make sure they are the BD-7 hubs. I would have 2 C-hubs, 2 knuckles on me at all times. It's always nice to feel warm with one of everything just because you can't walk into the hobby shop. But if you arent going nuts those are the basics.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:38 PM
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what servo saver is every one running
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by higbo View Post
This T-Shox is version long or short????????
How many spacers do you have at the bottom of the T-Shox?

Thanks
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:22 AM
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I'm running 5mm spacing all round to get them level
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mi4cxl View Post
I'm running 5mm spacing all round to get them level
Thanks for that... did you use the kit grub screw or did you need longer ones to put 5mm on?
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:27 AM
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Ideally longer ones are needed. Around 13-15mm iirc. But I used the two longer ones from the kit & two of equal length that I had from another build.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig W View Post
what servo saver is every one running
The Xray T4 servo saver in the upper middle hole

Seems to work well
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig W View Post
what servo saver is every one running
+1 on the xray T4 servo saver

The T3 and T4 part codes are the same so make sure its a Version 2 which gives youthe extra upper middle hole - this hole is the same height as the standard servo horn
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
Thanks for that... did you use the kit grub screw or did you need longer ones to put 5mm on?
Just checked. Using 15mm on the rear with 5mm of spacing is fine.

On the fronts the grub screws don't go in quite as far. So taking them down to 14.7 with a file makes them the perfect size for 5mm of spacing.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:37 PM
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Firstly, I run spec-r v2 dcj`s tonight for the first time, must say they are very good!! I somehow with light taps have broken the ball bit off of the yoke dcj`s 3 times now in 4 months of running(2/3 x week), I have yet to break ANY other part of the car, not one thing (just cracked shells) and my local indoor venue is brutal on cars. I can get a car round pretty ok, i make A main weekly from 70. The spec-r ones were a very nice fit, i did have to put a 0.1 shim on axle first before putting through bearing to reduce end float but that's just me, they run very smooth and no issues at all.

Secondly, the xray T4 servo saver is imo the best saver money can buy, stiffness and quality is the best BUT it is a tiny bit shorter than the standard yokomo horn, so if you are swapping or struggling to achieve full lock, i needed to up my epa a little on the gauges to match yoke horn and also the very slight reduction in height of the xray ss makes for a more linea steering curve

hope this is any help to peeps :-)
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:10 PM
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Hi Guys,

Sorry if this is a little off topic, but Scotty Ernst is holding an AOC championship (ala ETS) and one round is being held in my home town, Melbourne Australia. I thought I would post the link to the discussion should anyone be interested in a holiday down under

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...tty-ernst.html

http://www.aocrc.com/

Sorry for the hijack

Cheers,
Jordan
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kosmic View Post
Firstly, I run spec-r v2 dcj`s tonight for the first time, must say they are very good!! I somehow with light taps have broken the ball bit off of the yoke dcj`s 3 times now in 4 months of running(2/3 x week), I have yet to break ANY other part of the car, not one thing (just cracked shells) and my local indoor venue is brutal on cars. I can get a car round pretty ok, i make A main weekly from 70. The spec-r ones were a very nice fit, i did have to put a 0.1 shim on axle first before putting through bearing to reduce end float but that's just me, they run very smooth and no issues at all.

hope this is any help to peeps :-)
Spec R DCJ drives fine but breaks more easily than Yok. I broke a bone and still can't find replacement without buying a new spec r unit
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Spec R DCJ drives fine but breaks more easily than Yok. I broke a bone and still can't find replacement without buying a new spec r unit
Spec R V2 driveshafts are very good, no problems at all with them so far. They dont use blades either
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Spec R DCJ drives fine but breaks more easily than Yok. I broke a bone and still can't find replacement without buying a new spec r unit
will have spec r bones in stock on friday
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