Craig W

iTrader: (1)

96 48 should give u 4 fdr

swimbikerun

iTrader: (108)

A 96/48 works fine for a 4.0 FDR. With a 96 spur you can go down to a 3.84 FDR (50t pinion) due to the clearance of the pinion and the motor mount.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Mike!

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Excellent! i ordered a set! I'll keep you guys posted on their quality!

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I run them in my Schui, and I've been pretty satisfied (never run other DCJs, though, since they're not available). They have a fair amount of play (at least after as long as I've used them). But they're smooth, and seem pretty maintenance free. I finally got one to pop apart running 10.5 boosted in Hong Kong and hitting a few things and doing a lot of curb jumping. The pin worked its way out of the barrel. But nothing was lost, and I was able to reassemble it with the other set of holes on the barrel, and it held fine. I did have to tighten up the ring a bit with pliers, but no biggie.

One thing to note: Before you put them in the car, you'll want to change the direction of the pin retaining rings on one side of the car (don't remember which side). You'll want them oriented so that when the car is going forward, if the ring were to touch the inside of the steering knuckle, it wouldn't catch the straight end of the ring and pop the ring off.

Hope that helps.

-Mike

HawaiiBob

Never had an issue with the clip getting caught on a chub. The bd7 chubs have clearance enough.

cyclonetog

I did that 15 pages back, I'd be interested to see if you find the same as me.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11689948-post1572.html

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

I remember reading that, i have shims i can put between the bearing and pin to take out that slack, i do it now on all my cars, makes everything nice and slop free, and the shim is small enough not to cause binding when i put the wheel on!

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

He is referring to the drive pin at the end of the drive shaft where it slots into the spool out drive.

You actually just ordered the last set from my local race track. Right under my nose and I still managed to miss them. Arrrgh!

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

Tonight will be running the BD7 for the first time with my new flowworks team. Hope all goes well and nothing gets broken

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Oh, i read it wrong then. Sorry about that Racing4Evo, i have been looking for these actively for a week!

There are these for sale
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...unis-sale.html

The guy ships to North America and is great!

tkd662

Hi guys, when your talking about removing the steering brace, are taking it out all together then putting washers and screws in top, or just removing the screw out the top deck?
And all so are you removing the screw out the top deck above the motor mount?

Thanks

Bill K

iTrader: (1)

The screw that fits the steering mechanism infront of the bulkheads can be removed, I have left the screw in above the motor mount so the top deck has some stability, and is not being held down just by both bulkheads. Otherwise it could snap with a hard enough hit.

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i removed the brace altogether, and put 2 shims of 0.2m and 2 button head screws. For the screw on the motor mount, what Bill K said!

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Where is Yokomo's presence at the TITC 2013?? I can't see many pics of their cars.

But i am seeing new Tamiya TRF417 parts, and Yokomo parts on the Tamiya's too!

TRF417 avec Yokomo BD7 motor mount (+perhaps layshaft and center pullies?) + different lower & upper deck...