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Old 02-04-2013, 03:55 AM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by Andreas_Myrberg
My Yellow springs are harder then the Red springs.
If you traction roll I would go to the Yellow springs.
If you still traction roll with the Yellow springs, then I would start glueing the sidewall of the front tyre.

/Andreas
Thanks for the feedback :-)
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:44 AM
  #257  
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Default missing parts

Hi Andreas. I recently purchased a set of T-Shox for my T4 from a Hong Kong store and unfortunely found four(4) of the cone shims missing. Also one of the spring retainers was of a larger size, it passed over the shock thread. I manage to build two shock with the parts I had and found that both shafts, without oil in them were binding. Is there a fix for this problem and will the parts be sent out to me. I sent my detail via T-Shox web sight.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:09 PM
  #258  
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Video of the assembly posted.

Its the first one out so I will be updating and improving it as it goes along.
The video is a good start though

http://vimeo.com/58691980

Cheers
/Andreas
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:15 AM
  #259  
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Hello

What's best inner springs to run for full rebound?

And the best length to run for shock it's self? Ie 64 mm??

Cheers inadvance
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:01 AM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by spencehotbodies
Hello

What's best inner springs to run for full rebound?

And the best length to run for shock it's self? Ie 64 mm??

Cheers inadvance
rebound spring long hard try 64.5mm
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:04 AM
  #261  
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This past weekend i spend it testing mostly the T-Shox at the Euros 2013 Track outdoors asphalt on my Xray T4.

I ended up with:
Oil: MM400
Rebound spring: short
Springs: Blue in Front and Green in Rear

Sunday went home and disassemble them to check for leakage and rebuilt them. For me still no problem at all, the orings are handling very well and after rebuild them the T-shox are still as smooth as new.

Performance wise my results were very good, but will have to wait for a race to get them official, but i can assure they were great.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:01 AM
  #262  
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Thanks that's what I was thinking.

Is there any difference in the t-springs? Because you can get Ie yellow rears and fronts,
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:41 AM
  #263  
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Default T shox and T4, shims?

Hi,

on your T4, how many shims did you add on your arm to allow T shox to work nice,
I have 2mm front and 4 mm rear...

thanks

Nico'
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:35 AM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by Nico'
Hi,

on your T4, how many shims did you add on your arm to allow T shox to work nice,
I have 2mm front and 4 mm rear...

thanks

Nico'
Hello,

I also used 2mm in de front.
I also used 4mm in the rear (with 3 degree toe in). If you use less toe in (2 degree) you can use 3mm shims because the rear arm is less mounted forward on the outside.
I replaced the HEX SCREW SB M3x8 in the front by HEX SCREW SB M3x10
I replaced the HEX SCREW SB M3x8 in the rear by HEX SCREW SB M3x12
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:41 AM
  #265  
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AME Facebook:

AME and T-Shox will be present at the TITC 2013.
I will present and display the full line of AME products ( additive etc) and T-Shox and T-Springs.

If you want to see they T-Shox works or have any kind of questions on this, please come see me at the track.
I will be at the track from 17th of Feb until the 24th of Feb.

All products will also be available trackside.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:50 AM
  #266  
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on the video http://vimeo.com/58691980 why using a reamer only on 10042 bottom shims and not on all 10042 parts please?
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:55 AM
  #267  
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Default AME reseller Netherlands

Just want to let everyone know that we from Capricornrc.nl will be offering the full line of AME parts.

http://www.capricornrc.nl/t-shox

We're also working on low profile shocktowers for the Tamiya 417, Yokomo BD7, Capricorn TE-01, ARC-10 and Kyosho TF6 so all of these cars can be converted to short shocks.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:40 AM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by Bresser1
Hello Syndr0me,


- In the bottom shock the plastic shim is a little too thick and it binds up the movement.
What i did i using a piece of fine sandpaper and made the shim 1.85mm instead of 2.05mm.


Eric.
Hi,

I used a reamer, the result is better but I think the real problem is bottom plastic shim is too thick ( or O-ring too thick), when bottom 10004 tightened light, the shock moves free, when tightened fully, shock moves not free.
=> will try to make plastic shim thinner.

=> make it from 1,95 thick till 1,85 with 800 sandpaper and it is perfect now ;-)

Last edited by Nico'; 02-06-2013 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:46 AM
  #269  
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nice work Jorge, you should have told me that you will go to TITC I would have schedule to go also....

what do you have to say about the shock a must to be tested shocks?
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:59 AM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho
nice work Jorge, you should have told me that you will go to TITC I would have schedule to go also....

what do you have to say about the shock a must to be tested shocks?
No Nuno, unfortunately i will not go. At the moment for me the T-Shox are a must have, smooth as i never had any other shocks. I think the main advantage is the regular and consistent performance through every heat.
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